Getting rid of the roll over valve

[**sj**]

I took the line from the valve to the intake tube and re-purposed it. This way I won't lose it!View attachment 135733

Can't really see on my smart phone .. Do you have something else connected to the end of the hose it further down?

 

[Never Satisfied]

Yes, another piece of 5/8" hose out the footwell.

 

[yamaha06]

I took the line from the valve to the intake tube and re-purposed it. This way I won't lose it!View attachment 135733

Looks good! Where you took the line from the intake tube did you block the intake tube off? Still trying to decide how I want to do mine.

 

[BlueByYou2000]

I took the line from the valve to the intake tube and re-purposed it. This way I won't lose it!View attachment 135733

Can you be a little more specific as to how you did this? A little writeup would be great. Thanks man.

 

[Never Satisfied]

1st off I eliminated the whole rollover system from the top of the oil tank to the intake tube. You have to pull off the air plenum to do it. I put a cap over the nipple on the intake tube, FYI it is very very tight to the steering post, the OEM clamp was actually rubbing on the post . So with that I had 2 tubes left over, the one from the tank to the valve the other from the valve to the intake. That second hose has a nice 90 degree bend which fits perfectly on the oil tank to direct the vapor down to the floor board. I got a $.29 plastic union and added some 5/8" hose to get it out of the floor board area. I zip tide it to the toe hold to keep it out of the way of my foot. Simple and cheap.

 

[NOS-PRO]

I am brainstorming and going to try this mod (depending on how much pressure is on the roll over valve if I change it's mounting position).

I am going to take the rollover valve (item 31) and put it right on top of the oil tank (item 20) which should keep the valve more heated, block off the air intake tube (because to me warm air from the tank and if the valve should let ice or oil in by the fins of the impeller would not be good....that intake should just be raw clean air In My Opinion) and have a shorter vent tube down to the foot well that the oil tank can keep warm.

Results, still have the rollover valve working, oil mess will be to a minimum if oil gets past the valve, valve should have lots more heat being right on the oil tank, plus the heated and vented air will move more freely keeping the valve open and if a rollover....you won't have all that oil in the line up to the valve.

 

[**sj**]

nos my thought on your mod....take those below zero times when you aren't running the machine to get the oil in the tank warm..and yet when hot there's condensation that would drop down the tube to the valve and possibly freeze...

another idea is put a tee inline on the existing hose with the outboard leg of the tee being threaded....when sitting and extreme cold before running take the cap off and run this way till well warmed up then put the cap back on? leaves the system functioning ...just a thought

but for me....I am taking dans design...I bought a 5/8" black poly heater hose tee...some stainless clamps and 5/8" heater hose at autozone...cheap and light....the large hose should guarantee zero pressure on the tank ever and the valve should remain closed with the valve and plumbing remaining

 

[NOS-PRO]

nos my thought on your mod....take those below zero times when you aren't running the machine to get the oil in the tank warm..and yet when hot there's condensation that would drop down the tube to the valve and possibly freeze...

another idea is put a tee inline on the existing hose with the outboard leg of the tee being threaded....when sitting and extreme cold before running take the cap off and run this way till well warmed up then put the cap back on? leaves the system functioning ...just a thought

but for me....I am taking dans design...I bought a 5/8" black poly heater hose tee...some stainless clamps and 5/8" heater hose at autozone...cheap and light....the large hose should guarantee zero pressure on the tank ever and the valve should remain closed with the valve and plumbing remaining

Yes, agreed.... Seems like there is no easy way around this except to leave it wide open.

*******This just in....my friends sled was fixed under warranty. New oil tank and new seal was ordered. His dealer said "the seal from the get-go is junk" *******
There is no recall on this tank....but his dealer said it's the 3rd one they have fixed this season. Looks like this will be an *if it happens* deal.

 

[1CoolZ71]

This is an interesting read and I think it ties in to the 26 error code that myself and others have had. With all the moisture and oil gunk in the charge tube from the stock roll over setup, the pressure sensor can freezing up in this very cold weather. We cleaned a TON of water out of my intercooler and dried the sensors. 10 miles later the 26 code cleared. I will be doing Dan's fix just to get the moisture out of my intake tubes.

 

[KnappAttack]

Been riding in the UP the last few days and my valve removal mod is working well. No oil seepage, no pressure buildup and no frozen or melted hoses either...

Seems to be making even more power needing more weight and less wrap on the driven spring to keep R’s in check. I like not putting the vapor into the intake!

So far I haven’t tipped it over, nor do I intend too, but did watch a 144 assault roll after he glanced off me and my clutch side panlel on the wrong side of the corner, and it was the outside of the corner too, I was completely off the trail to the right and he still hit me! WTF is the matter with the nit wits?

Kip has already ordered me up a new side planel that should be here Thursday. I consider myself lucky he didn’t take my leg off. Frickin idiots!

 

[**sj**]

Been riding in the UP the last few days and my valve removal mod is working well. No oil seepage, no pressure buildup and no frozen or melted hoses either...

Seems to be making even more power needing more weight and less wrap on the driven spring to keep R’s in check. I like not putting the vapor into the intake!

So far I haven’t tipped it over, nor do I intend too, but did watch a 144 assault roll after he glanced off me and my clutch side panlel on the wrong side of the corner, and it was the outside of the corner too, I was completely off the trail to the right and he still hit me! WTF is the matter with the nit wits?

Kip has already ordered me up a new side planel that should be here Thursday. I consider myself lucky he didn’t take my leg off. Frickin idiots!

glad you are okay...we ran into a few idiots last week also...seems like the only safe spot is behind a couple big trees...

everytime we stopped at a watering hole...all I could think is which one of these guys tipping them back with reckless abandon is one of those fools..

 

[stevewithOCD]

The problem with watering holes...........no one drinks water!

That's why i stop at Hot Dog stands

 

[**sj**]

Im not positive NO oil will leak out if rolled but it should hold much of it in. I guess it depends how its rolled, and if its on its side at certain angle I suppose oil can get out. But for now I just want to eliminate the worry of that pressure building up upon a frozen valve. Hopefully yam will bring a real fix soon then.

dan ...is your vent line 3/8" or 1/2" ...THE TEE exit is 1/2" but in the video you say 3/8"????

 

[stevewithOCD]

3/8 ID. So the OD i think is 1/2

 

[theewarrior]

I also went with Dan's and just bought a small gas line shut off to put on the 3/8 hose, that way if you shut the hose off your back to stock that simple .I also ran it out the little holes in the body by the chaincase .nice job Dan