Getting rid of the roll over valve

[PowderFalcon]

Sorry been very busy on the sled....doing all the goodies. Will post all that in build thread likely tonight or tomorrow, just too busy.

Since I was deep into her, I decided to remove the valve altogether. I wanted more volume in the hose in case of roll. And a higher loop too. I eliminated all the clamps and tee obviously too. I have a video with full details below.

A 1/2" heater hose/fuel line was my choice. I heated up the end with heat gun, to make it pliable and then it fits onto tank nipple. Use stock clamp. Sure a larger hose can be used, but things get tight in there when side panel shuts. After my first temporary solution(which works very well) this is now my permanent solution, I have a ton more mods/tweaks I did to my sled that I will post in my build thread over the next day or two.

Dan

Beauty setup Dan! And as always, rockin out to some wicked classic rock jams!

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I like this idea better Then the T Dan. I thought your T idea was great but I had wanted it up a little higher. Your big loop Idea is much better. I think this is the way I will go.

Yeah Joe....

If you recall I had to come with quick fix for a minus 25 degree ride that next day. I did not want a freeze up of valve and so I used the TEE method with parts laying around.

So when I had lots more time this week, and had it all apart....I went with the design of longer/higher tube...more volume for rollover, and only ONE CLAMP in entire design, which is much cleaner looking and less connections are always better.

Dan

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Beauty setup Dan! And as always, rockin out to some wicked classic rock jams!

LOL...... I always get those comments from all my musician buds when they see me wrenching, they are not motorheads but love my background music in vids...haha

I have lots more vids on youtube page, and going to try to post some stuff up today, but I still have to finish a few things, like clutch weights....And BTW the 3/8" for me is abit thick, got pics of my carbides and ill post in pertinent thread.

Dan

 

[**sj**]

This is what I’ve done to get rid of the problematic valve. Just a hardware store 5/8" ID hose wrapped with foil heat tape, looped it up and over down to under the running board. Let bottom hang and inch or two below the board. You can see how much blowby you have also.

I plugged the line where the stock hose went into the turbo intake with a rubber 3/8" ID cap stretched over the intake turbo tube nipple and clamped.

Now the intake is not getting that blow-by exhaust and no worry of the supposed factory "roll over" valve sticking shut and blowing out the oil tank seal again.

It worked fine on my turbo 1200 Doos for years this exact same way.

I was going to install a 1200 roll over valve but haven’t yet as the space to do so is pretty limited. It’s been over 20 years since I’ve rolled any machine and am not to worried about it not having a valve, for now anyway.

Not telling anyone to get rid of it, but I’m not going to have my oil tank seal blown out on a trip. I’ve already sealed it once as it was leaking.

View attachment 135444


View attachment 135445


This is a real roll over valve from a 1200 Rotax I had planed to use, but space is tight and I may or may not put it in down the road. I'm not to worried about rolling over anyway. The old Suzuki 1100 turbo never had a roll over valve either...

View attachment 135446

I am liking this fix more and more I think of it....and now is my final answer...thanks

 

[KnappAttack]

I am liking this fix more and more I think of it....and now is my final answer...thanks

Put 675 Miles on this setup this week with no problems. Only thing I'd change is going to a heater or silicone type hose. I do think the clear plastic reinforced tubing may get brittle with the high heat over time.

Going to see if I can add in the 1200 Rotax roll over valve for all those that are freaking out about not having one. It is a far better piece than came from the factory. Any roll on the side or top and it will shut off the vent.

 

[orange whistler]

I tried silicone hose and didn't like it. It was to flimsy. I ended up using 5/8 high temp power steering hose.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Put 675 Miles on this setup this week with no problems. Only thing I'd change is going to a heater or silicone type hose. I do think the clear plastic reinforced tubing may get brittle with the high heat over time.

Going to see if I can add in the 1200 Rotax roll over valve for all those that are freaking out about not having one. It is a far better piece than came from the factory. Any roll on the side or top and it will shut off the vent.

Nice work Mike. And thanks for the idea bud.

Dan

 

[XP123]

Nice work Mike. And thanks for the idea bud.

Dan

I did mine today Dan just like you did. I used 1/2 inch heater hose I bought from Autozone. I didn't need to heat up the hose to fit on the oil tank. I just put a little oil on it and it worked right on and I used the stock clamp. I also used a 3/4 pex plug on the hose going to the intake. I cut it just close enough so I could plug it without removing the plastic intake that you said was a PITA. Thanks to you and Mike I now don't have to worry about my oil tank seal blowing out.

 

[SnoWarrior]

Yes Thanks for all the great info and dissertations.
I did mine today as well.....one less thing to worry about.
Going to the Delta on the 21st for a week, don't need to lose oil if the valve freezes.

 

[**sj**]

Completed mine tonight..
5/8" line with heat tape... Thanks again Mike for The post and Dan for the additional ground work..

 

[theewarrior]

Just wondering if the 3/8 t hose worked fine , would it hurt to reduce the 1/2 heater hose down to 3/8 ? Why I ask is I had mine out the hole the chaincase nicely so I left it like that down through and used a reducer from the half-inch

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Just wondering if the 3/8 t hose worked fine , would it hurt to reduce the 1/2 heater hose down to 3/8 ? Why I ask is I had mine out the hole the chaincase nicely so I left it like that down through and used a reducer from the half-inch

Sounds like you would be fine.....I only had to go up to 1/2" as the 3/8" was too tight to get onto the nipple of tank. Its just a vent.

 

[theewarrior]

Sounds like you would be fine.....I only had to go up to 1/2" as the 3/8" was too tight to get onto the nipple of tank. Its just a vent.

Thanks

 

[Mtnviper]

Guys,
I urge you to take a step back and think about why the factory uses a 5/8" vent line in the first place! It's because there is a LARGE volume of air flow at higher RPM! What you feel flowing out of the oil tank at idle is only a fraction of what the flow is at 9000 RPM!
If the engineers had felt that a 3/8" vent was sufficient, then they would have built the sled that way in the first place!!!!! Why? Because it would been easier to package in to the sled AND it would be cheaper for them to do so!

Several years ago a guy came up with the idea of using a $10 PCV valve as roll over valve. Well another member thought that it sounded like a good idea and tried it on his Phazer. The result was he blew up his engine due to a bottom end failure and the OP ended up re-posting a warning not to try it. I can see where this thread might be heading in the same direction.
Someone could be reading this thread and thinking that "well the OP used 5/8" hose and I don't have any 5/8", but I have some 3/8" so that should work". Well it might or it might not. If doesn't work, you run the risk of pitching a rod through the side of the block.

The bottom line is that's it's your sled and do to it what you want. But please understand the oil tank vent is not the same as a valve cover or gas tank vent. The flow requirements are far greater and vary with RPM, engine load and oil pump/scavenge pump flow rates. Remember the oiling system is the life blood of your engine and the breather system is engineered to use 5/8" tubing/hose for a reason.

Bill

 

[ROCKERDAN]

So now It makes me wonder......

Will we still see leaks/seeping thru the oil tank?

I wonder how well these seals will hold up now without pressure on them, it would be nice if we don't need to ever take the oil tank apart to re-seal it.

Dan