Help Overheat issues!!

[ROCKERDAN]

Need to keep snow in the tunnel....

-Run skid soft(low)
-Tunnel flares
-Longer flap - I am still looking into this, or possibly an extension
-Water Wetter

But when the trails are rock hard, or lakes are glare ice there is not much that will help short of scratchers.

 

[hibshman25]

I just got an 18 Winder and gone thru all 7 pages of this post, good read! Got her home and checked for rubbing lines, kinked lines, loose clamps, coolant level and ratio ect. ect. My ratio shows the coolant good down to -35 F. That shocked me cause Yamaha tends to set the ratio for the North Pole riding! When I got my Attak the temp light would come on occasionally till I installed a rear heat exchanger and thinned the mixture to 60/40 (It was -65 F. stock from Yamaha) . Light never came on again. I'll be adding water wetter to mine, and it seems once there's a few thousand miles on the motor they loosen up and run cooler, at least I hope so!

YOU bought a Yamacat!!!!! I did a triple take to make sure I read it right. Ha.

 

[XP123]

Need to keep snow in the tunnel....

-Run skid soft(low)
-Tunnel flares
-Longer flap - I am still looking into this, or possibly an extension
-Water Wetter

But when the trails are rock hard, or lakes are glare ice there is not much that will help short of scratchers.

Very true on running the rear skid soft and low Dan. The season before last when my Wife and I had our brand new 1200 Renegades she kept over heating and it was because she was too light to make the rear suspension move. I ended up putting lighter springs in her rear skid and it made a huge difference. There are so many negatives in running a stiff rear suspension. from hard steering to darting to over heating and lack of transfer yet so many riders crank them up and wonder why their sleds suck in so many ways.

 

[stevewithOCD]

Do they make lighter rear springs for this sled?

 

[VX1R]

Do they make lighter rear springs for this sled?

I've been running these lighter rate rear springs in my SW LTX-LE and they really made an improvement in weight transfer and also help to lighten up the steering:

https://www.hygearsuspension.com/co...aha-viper-ltx-arctic-cat-xf-137-pair-modified

 

[vodoo child]

YOU bought a Yamacat!!!!! I did a triple take to make sure I read it right. Ha.

Yes Travis, I made the jump to the darker ""DARK SIDE"" !!!! Still have my Attak for a ""SPARE""!! ( I'm going to need a set of ski's for the old girl, 15'500 miles the keels are pretty much just a sharp vee, I'll be calling you to see if you'll have any up at the excell race.) With all the bashing I did about these Yamacat's I hope ""KARMA"" doesn't find me!!!

 

[vodoo child]

Dove a little deeper into the cooling system yesterday. Sucked out 6 ounces of coolant from the filler neck and added 6 ounces of Water Wetter. Just to be safe I decided to check the vent tank on the turbo side, good thing cause it was damn near empty, so much for ""DEALER SET UP"" !!! So I filled the vent tank, as per dealer set up instructions. Started and let idle till the rear heat exchanger, the inlet and outlet pipes were all warm to hot. Pretty sure no air pockets in the system, first ride will tell!

 

[stevewithOCD]

You will probably have to fill it a few more times.

 

[stevewithOCD]

I've been running these lighter rate rear springs in my SW LTX-LE and they really made an improvement in weight transfer and also help to lighten up the steering:

https://www.hygearsuspension.com/co...aha-viper-ltx-arctic-cat-xf-137-pair-modified

Thanks. I may call Hygear.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Very true on running the rear skid soft and low Dan. The season before last when my Wife and I had our brand new 1200 Renegades she kept over heating and it was because she was too light to make the rear suspension move. I ended up putting lighter springs in her rear skid and it made a huge difference. There are so many negatives in running a stiff rear suspension. from hard steering to darting to over heating and lack of transfer yet so many riders crank them up and wonder why their sleds suck in so many ways.

The rear suspension and how high the rear of sled sits was a HUGE issue since 2014 for me, when I went over to DOOs. My '14 800 etec and then the 16 1200 4tec, both were XS chassis. The 800 etec would heat up super fast when hitting a road or glare ice, and the 1200 4tec was alittle better being a 129'' with more rear cooler/drop down. But both of the Doos would not take long when we would get to a lake with little snow, and we have alot of lakes around us.

Last season riding with the new 850(buds) I went HOT about half way across Lake Muskoka(large lake) while his 850 was still just in middle of the range, and safe. The ACE 900 running with us was also safe range, and the POOs with us were always fine with no heat issues. So the new tunnel design of the 850, doo has done a nice job with the new cooling within tunnel design, nice work there.

On the XS Doos, the Rmotion needs to be run low. DOO has a large amount of SAG built into their Rmo skid, which is why it rides so plush. The DOO flap design is like no other too. So their flap design and low sag keeps snow under the tunnel and snowdust curling upward into the tunnel. The flap has a curved/bent inward at bottom design when looking at it from the side, it follows the track as it curves inward around the rear axle wheels. I often watch buddies sleds as we ride side by side on lake, to see how snow dust reacts. Each sled design has different ways of throwing snow around. The Doo flap is best at keeping it in tunnel.

Sit on a Rmo DOO, and measure how low that curved flap rides to ground after sagging with your weight on it. Now do the same on a Sidewinder. The difference is huge. The SW just does not sag much, and also the SW/Yam snowflap is more straight and even bent outward as miles pile on. Me being around 185-190 lbs, Mine will sag even less, even though I run torsions on 1.

So I believe a DOO flap, trimmed to add the bottom few inches to stock SW flap....this would add the curved inward section. The trick will be to make it long enough to aid on cooling, yet not too long to have reverse issues with it catching on studs.

Below is a good example pic.....Toms SW(LE 137) with him SITTING ON IT(he is a big boy!) and look at his flap to ground distance....while my DOO XS 1200 sitting next to it, with NO ONE sitting on it flap distance. And when I sit on the doo it drops right down near 2.5-3" lower.

Dan

 

[VX1R]

Awesome post Dan. You pretty much have nailed all of the ride height issues with the SW LTX and I think that you ideas regarding a flap mod is spot on. Your pics are a great example.

In my previous post on this thread I mentioned that I swapped out the skid torsion springs on my SW LTX with some lighter rate torsion springs that HyGear sells. I'm pretty sure that these are AC lighter rate springs but they actually re-arch the spring ends to achieve a lower ride height in addition to a much improved weight transfer and lighter steering effort especially with aggressive skis.

I'm not a real big guy...about 145lbs. and had the springs set at full soft.

Here's a couple of pics to show how these springs have brought my flap down enough to collect a lot of snow.

 

[krm]

Dan ,maybe doos new summit flap will work on the sw .?

 

[krm]

I just drilled some small 3/16" holes in my flap bent the lower portion forward and put 3 wire ties in to hold it in shape .Works good .

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Awesome post Dan. You pretty much have nailed all of the ride height issues with the SW LTX and I think that you ideas regarding a flap mod is spot on. Your pics are a great example.

In my previous post on this thread I mentioned that I swapped out the skid torsion springs on my SW LTX with some lighter rate torsion springs that HyGear sells. I'm pretty sure that these are AC lighter rate springs but they actually re-arch the spring ends to achieve a lower ride height in addition to a much improved weight transfer and lighter steering effort especially with aggressive skis.

I'm not a real big guy...about 145lbs. and had the springs set at full soft.

Here's a couple of pics to show how these springs have brought my flap down enough to collect a lot of snow.

View attachment 129751 View attachment 129752

Nice work....I think you are onto something here. I know for guys under 150 lbs or so, a lighter spring sure seems like it would be needed. While overheating can still happen in typical poor cooling snow conditions, these tactics aimed at keeping the sled low and any avail snowdust hitting the coolers, is a big help. Especially on those marginal days where you just run hot but are still riding.....it may then run at a more norm temp.

I really want to try to get a inward curve onto the bottom of the Yam flap. The DOO flaps are pricey like most Factory items. And I found PDP makes a nice long flap aimed at the XS styling, with a curve built in, and much cheaper then BRP factory flap. This might be the perfect one to hack up and add on.

Also, its gotta make you wonder if this has alot to do with the poor transfer on the LTX models. Little to no SAG. The Rmo on the doo has the most SAG i know of from any of my riding history, and it rides like a caddy and transfers like a madman when wanted. I will have to see if the springs on the rear of RTX are same part number as LTX.

BTW VX1R, I have admired your sled for many months. The tasteful graphics and wrap work is impressive, love that type of understated look, much more hi end looking then all these crazy wraps these companies have out there. I would love to know if your guy could make up just the section where knees ride. I assume he has the template, and Im really thinking my all white panels where knees touch will be dirty fast. Vinyl here would be easily cleaned.


Dan

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Dan ,maybe doos new summit flap will work on the sw .?

Ken, I have been checking those out too....I know they are 1" longer if I recall....but the ones I see in new 18 BRP acc catalog have holes cutouts in them, for summit sleds....seems to me they would let the snowdust out. I have not seen one in person though.

I just drilled some small 3/16" holes in my flap bent the lower portion forward and put 3 wire ties in to hold it in shape .Works good .

Nice way to get the flap angled ahead......I have seen several aftermarket companies with alum brackets that keep the flap stiffer, they attach to the tunnel up higher.

Also I think those tunnel flares will help some too.....the red ones seem to be discontinued so will have to be black. But I think these are another way to keep some snow dust under the tunnel as the track spits it around and out.

Dan