01blackspeeper
Extreme
that track may help to. mine is 16/2.25/162. i think wth the shorter lug and 13.5 width that will make a difference but time will tll.
kinger
VIP Member
Custom track in progress step 1 fully punch track.
I used a razor blade and it took about 1.5 hrs to cut all 80 windows out.
I got a little overzealous with razor and it slipped and sliced a lug slightly DOH!!!
View from underside:
A few choice words were said dangit!! Its probably fine but with the speeds the sled can run this track will probably see loads its not used to. Im going to attempt to patch it with self vulcanizing cement and add some support to the track to hopefully keep it from delaminating.
More to come....
I used a razor blade and it took about 1.5 hrs to cut all 80 windows out.
I got a little overzealous with razor and it slipped and sliced a lug slightly DOH!!!
View from underside:
A few choice words were said dangit!! Its probably fine but with the speeds the sled can run this track will probably see loads its not used to. Im going to attempt to patch it with self vulcanizing cement and add some support to the track to hopefully keep it from delaminating.
More to come....
kinger
VIP Member
This track is LIGHT. This 151 is about 2lbs heavier then my 121 cobra! The cobra with no studs weighs 39 lbs this is 41. I need to add about 80 clips and some studs but I was thinking this was going to be a 14lb penalty vs a 2lbs track for track. 
Clips are heavy....
kinger
VIP Member
Got the track fully clipped. I found the OEM artic cat clips on ebay and they arrived very fast. Ulmer lent me his track clip tool it was the big handle type and I must say this job wasn't that bad. I did it in about 45 minutes over 3 days about 15 mins a crack. Good stress relief actually! LOL
For those not familar step one put the clip on the window:
Step 2 grab your tool and slide through each window and hook tool on buil tin hook
Step 3 Squeeze till your muscles pop LOL :exc:
Thats it finished product:
I also got to weigh the track and the clips added about 4 lbs this is 80 clips on a 151 track that was clipped every 3rd.
That is still darn light the crossover track I was looking at was 52lbs full clip. The 151 ripsaw same lug height as this narrow predator weighs 49 lbs. So the 13.5" saves about 4 lbs.
Next up ZX2 mods to handle a 13.5" track...
For those not familar step one put the clip on the window:
Step 2 grab your tool and slide through each window and hook tool on buil tin hook
Step 3 Squeeze till your muscles pop LOL :exc:
Thats it finished product:
I also got to weigh the track and the clips added about 4 lbs this is 80 clips on a 151 track that was clipped every 3rd.
That is still darn light the crossover track I was looking at was 52lbs full clip. The 151 ripsaw same lug height as this narrow predator weighs 49 lbs. So the 13.5" saves about 4 lbs.
Next up ZX2 mods to handle a 13.5" track...
kinger
VIP Member
More goodies arrived for my 151" conversion
Hartman 151" extension and of course custom marble paint to match the rest of the sled.
Custom U cooler looks like it will fit perfectly!
More to come....
Hartman 151" extension and of course custom marble paint to match the rest of the sled.
Custom U cooler looks like it will fit perfectly!
More to come....
yamaha1973
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2011
- Messages
- 1,288
- Location
- St. Peter Minnesota
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Viper XTX SE
cant wait to see this thing done!
raginyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Master
nice sandals....... 
Are you wearing a robe in the garage kinger? 
raginyamaha said:nice sandals.......
X2
I am worried that there is no radius in the corners of your cut outs on the track though.
kinger
VIP Member
Will you stay focused on the sled not my attire. LOL
Gone Blue
VIP Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2006
- Messages
- 1,614
- Age
- 62
- Location
- Howell, Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 08' Nytro RTX 40th Anniversary - Stretched
Flip flops or not, your 151" conversion should help you put the power down. Go big or go home! G.B.
kopenytro
Expert
kinger
I'm not trying to cause any trouble here... but it looks like he's had a pedicure done!
Male foot model maybe?
PS: sled looks awesome! Beautiful build
Kope.
I'm not trying to cause any trouble here... but it looks like he's had a pedicure done!
Male foot model maybe?
PS: sled looks awesome! Beautiful build
Kope.
kinger
VIP Member
Re: kinger
Its not JUST the sled that gets pampered, some times the feet need some love too....trying to figure out how to hydro dip my toe nails to match the sled LOL
kopenytro said:
Its not JUST the sled that gets pampered, some times the feet need some love too....trying to figure out how to hydro dip my toe nails to match the sled LOL
kinger
VIP Member
Quick update in the garage. 1st off pulled it out of shed after sitting for 3 months turned the key and she fired up and idled perfect, so I let it get good and hot. Man this thing runs good!
1st step fix my slip up on the track, after research and visiting with a camoplast engineer I found this cement for the repair work:
Its a vulcanizing cement that actually is supposed to get the rubber molecules to reform again. I didn't have a lot of expectations but it may have just worked! After filling in the slit and letting it sit for awhile I went to pull it apart and you couldn't even tell there was ever a slit.
Here is me trying to pull it apart. Dont mind the circle of ring, I was going to mess with a patch but it wouldn't hold with all the ribs in the track.
Next up was the ZX2 mods to run a 13.5" track. The only thing I think I need to do is add a center bogey wheel between the shocks. So I used a standard 5.35"x .75" bogey wheel which is the same outer diameter as the ZX2 upper wheels. My plan was to slide it on the shaft but I didn't realize it was milled down a thousandth of a inch on the ends so my bogey wheel wouldn't slide on. So I had to mill inner bearing and it worked really easy and was fast to do:
Ended up with something like this:
But the bogey wheel is rubbing on the shock robber covers and will wear a hole eventually. So I thought about and i think I will mill the bushings down and move the two shocks apart and closer to the rails. It clears the shocks fine but rubbing on the covers is all. I rigged up a bench sander and sanded the bogey wheels on both sides to add some clearance but its not enough.
More to come....
1st step fix my slip up on the track, after research and visiting with a camoplast engineer I found this cement for the repair work:
Its a vulcanizing cement that actually is supposed to get the rubber molecules to reform again. I didn't have a lot of expectations but it may have just worked! After filling in the slit and letting it sit for awhile I went to pull it apart and you couldn't even tell there was ever a slit.
Here is me trying to pull it apart. Dont mind the circle of ring, I was going to mess with a patch but it wouldn't hold with all the ribs in the track.
Next up was the ZX2 mods to run a 13.5" track. The only thing I think I need to do is add a center bogey wheel between the shocks. So I used a standard 5.35"x .75" bogey wheel which is the same outer diameter as the ZX2 upper wheels. My plan was to slide it on the shaft but I didn't realize it was milled down a thousandth of a inch on the ends so my bogey wheel wouldn't slide on. So I had to mill inner bearing and it worked really easy and was fast to do:
Ended up with something like this:
But the bogey wheel is rubbing on the shock robber covers and will wear a hole eventually. So I thought about and i think I will mill the bushings down and move the two shocks apart and closer to the rails. It clears the shocks fine but rubbing on the covers is all. I rigged up a bench sander and sanded the bogey wheels on both sides to add some clearance but its not enough.
More to come....
