kinger
VIP Member
I updated the MTX thread that I have found intriguing about balance of the sled and a video with weights of the pro in it. I purchased a 4 scale system and have two apexs now and took some weights of each. I'm moving from the SC GT to the impulse mid mount MTX but converting it the same set up as my SC 151.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/corner-weighting-and-balance-of-suspension.92591/page-2
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/corner-weighting-and-balance-of-suspension.92591/page-2
Attachments
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Great work Kinger, you have got better left/right balance which is important for consistency in front suspension.
See ya
See ya
kinger
VIP Member
Glad you noticed that RXrider, I always wondered what the side mounted pullies and MPI oil tank always did to the balance. When I accelerated hard the sled would always twist off the line with the clutch side ski always higher in the air then the oil tank side, I thought it was just the dynamics of the chassis. On the one short 40 miles ride on the mid mount they do lift even now. Amazing what a 20-30 lbs does!!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
20-30 lbs sure does a lot to throw it off balance, and it will do what you described.
I think that with the front mount turbo with the turbo slightly to the left and the 1 gallon meth tank to the right the balance is pretty spot on.
This it how it was set up in my old RX-1, it still lives on in my friends garage, still running strong after a heart transplant a few years ago.
I think that with the front mount turbo with the turbo slightly to the left and the 1 gallon meth tank to the right the balance is pretty spot on.
This it how it was set up in my old RX-1, it still lives on in my friends garage, still running strong after a heart transplant a few years ago.
kinger
VIP Member
I'll posting a huge scale thread showing all the weight I'm cutting in the front as soon as I have time. I'm hoping for another 40-50lbs off the front end. I would love to get equal scale pressure of 150lbs per ski, that is what the pro has. While I know that ONE variable wont make the apex a pro, I figure at least the balance will be close and it will probably handle tons better in the deep. Its also revealing that apex's are NOT front end heavy. Its only when the MTX guys took ALL the weight off the rear, put 15" tracks on them to sidehill, that it increased 20-30lbs of ski pressure they got heavy and why most said they were all a bear to ride in the steep and deep. There was a reason for the 24lb boat anchor in the rear!
kinger
VIP Member
Stock front suspension plus bolts gives 22lbs:
Mpi front end kit/7075 spindles with bolts 14lbs:
Old “lightweight” Battery 11lbs
New lithium and UC cap pack 3.3lbs:
Old charge pipe 3.3lbs new one (not pictured) 0.5lbs:
Stock MTX skis with single carbide 17lbs:
Sly dog powderhounds one with a dual carbide (oil tank side) and one with a single 13lbs:
EBrake reverse and scrapping the handle saves 2.2lbs:
Stock headlight, and BPE gauge pod and 3 turbo gauges 7lbs:
New headlight pod and Led lights 2.4lbs:
Not included is the lightweight hood and koso gauge. Should net about a 3lb savings.
Just for reference complete OEM steering without the risor 9.9lbs:
More to come, tapa talk is working and makes updating this post so easy!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mpi front end kit/7075 spindles with bolts 14lbs:
Old “lightweight” Battery 11lbs
New lithium and UC cap pack 3.3lbs:
Old charge pipe 3.3lbs new one (not pictured) 0.5lbs:
Stock MTX skis with single carbide 17lbs:
Sly dog powderhounds one with a dual carbide (oil tank side) and one with a single 13lbs:
EBrake reverse and scrapping the handle saves 2.2lbs:
Stock headlight, and BPE gauge pod and 3 turbo gauges 7lbs:
New headlight pod and Led lights 2.4lbs:
Not included is the lightweight hood and koso gauge. Should net about a 3lb savings.
Just for reference complete OEM steering without the risor 9.9lbs:
More to come, tapa talk is working and makes updating this post so easy!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
kinger
VIP Member
Here is how I wired the Shorai and the Ultra Capacitor pack I got off eBay. Fits EXACTLY in the stock batt tray! I’m pretty excited about that. I was thinking it was going to be a custom deal with more wiring and this worked out slick.
Clutch side:
Mag side:
Held in place with stock Batt cap and some foam to keep everything tight.
Impulse surge tank fits perfectly:
Where the external fuel pump is mounted:
Straight aluminum pipe saving 2.5lbs:
Ill write up my exhaust after a bit.
Clutch side:
Mag side:
Held in place with stock Batt cap and some foam to keep everything tight.
Impulse surge tank fits perfectly:
Where the external fuel pump is mounted:
Straight aluminum pipe saving 2.5lbs:
Ill write up my exhaust after a bit.
kinger
VIP Member
I got the front suspension bolted up, hit the spindles with some high gloss. The MPI silver powder coat almost looks like chrome. I was going to paint them but they look to nice. I hope they are stronger and hold up! I haven’t had any luck with lightweight front ends so this will be my last gamble. Little worried if it does bend I have no way to get spare parts. Fingers crossed!
Here are the single carbides I chose and their weight. I did the single on the clutch side to help from pushing across the trail
Into oncoming traffic. I like the duals and effortless steering and zero darting but the push was to much I was wearing out my brakes to keep the pressure on the front to get it to steer. I will be curious if the single on one side and dual on the other will help any. If not I’ll go single both sides. I will say the snow stuff duals have lasted forever. Compared to slim jim duallys that bent on every ride it seemed.
I’ll follow up after my trip in Jan.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here are the single carbides I chose and their weight. I did the single on the clutch side to help from pushing across the trail
Into oncoming traffic. I like the duals and effortless steering and zero darting but the push was to much I was wearing out my brakes to keep the pressure on the front to get it to steer. I will be curious if the single on one side and dual on the other will help any. If not I’ll go single both sides. I will say the snow stuff duals have lasted forever. Compared to slim jim duallys that bent on every ride it seemed.
I’ll follow up after my trip in Jan.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
kinger
VIP Member
The standard exhaust on the impulse turbo is a single 3” dump about 7” long. Great for flow but loud in any condition other then deep snow. So I was going through different options in my head that would still keep it a tunnel dump but quiet it. I like getting rid of the rear exit exhaust.
So I decided on a 3” boost activated exhaust cut out valve. I found a 1lb 3” baffle at Dennis Kirk that would basically restrict the exhaust down to a 1.3” hole. So then I got to welding.
Started with this:
Mock up planning:
Here is the final weight with Ti wrapped and baffle installed. 6.8lbs heavier then I was hoping. Also that 2nd 3” pipe is custom 18ga which is lighter then normal 16 ga. I had to order a J pipe on Summit racing and cut up what I needed for that. Glad I did it save about 1lb.
View of the bottom:
These little cone parts came in handy to morph the two pipes together and as you can see I used it to avoid drilling a 2nd 3” hole in my tunnel.
Previous owner got a little carried away with the sawzall and so I had to make a new plate for the two holes exhausting in the Tunnel.
Inside view of the bypass hole. I made sure to have plenty of eddies and other rough edges that are bad for flow but good for sound. When the valve opens up all bets are off haha:
Lastly going to rig up a light switch to the actuator so I know when the valve is opening. Should be handy as I play around with boost settings for it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So I decided on a 3” boost activated exhaust cut out valve. I found a 1lb 3” baffle at Dennis Kirk that would basically restrict the exhaust down to a 1.3” hole. So then I got to welding.
Started with this:
Mock up planning:
Here is the final weight with Ti wrapped and baffle installed. 6.8lbs heavier then I was hoping. Also that 2nd 3” pipe is custom 18ga which is lighter then normal 16 ga. I had to order a J pipe on Summit racing and cut up what I needed for that. Glad I did it save about 1lb.
View of the bottom:
These little cone parts came in handy to morph the two pipes together and as you can see I used it to avoid drilling a 2nd 3” hole in my tunnel.
Previous owner got a little carried away with the sawzall and so I had to make a new plate for the two holes exhausting in the Tunnel.
Inside view of the bypass hole. I made sure to have plenty of eddies and other rough edges that are bad for flow but good for sound. When the valve opens up all bets are off haha:
Lastly going to rig up a light switch to the actuator so I know when the valve is opening. Should be handy as I play around with boost settings for it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
kinger
VIP Member
Mainly for my own reminder but to remove the CPR intercooler you need to remove the very front cross bar that the IC connects into. Leave the silicone connectors on the TBs and loosen just the IC side. Now it will pop off and on. Once it’s on tighten the front connecting tube and the IC is literally stuck and could never blow off. Really a slick deal as I had the IC blow off a couple times on the SC sled it’s a good way to ruin a trip and freeze your hands out trying trail side repairs.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Damn Kinger
You have me all fired up and inspired
Now I will have to start rebuilding my 06 Attak, I still need a motor for that Project to take off.
My 06 has an an exhaust bypass like the one you are working on.
It worked well untill the cross shaft holding the butterfly broke.
The former owner had air/fuel issues running it too Rich on fuel,
This caused explosions inside the exhaust Down pipe and finally blew out the butterfly bypass valve.
The sled was really quiet at low throttle riding slowly thru populated areas, it had close to Stock sound Levels.
Mind you this sled is capable of 400+ HP on race fuel in Perfect tune running a Garrett GT2871RS turbo.
I Guess the former owner got it up to 375 HP on pump gas With his currect air/fuel tune and boost pressure.
Have great Luck With Your Project.
Jan-Ove
rxrider
You have me all fired up and inspired
Now I will have to start rebuilding my 06 Attak, I still need a motor for that Project to take off.
My 06 has an an exhaust bypass like the one you are working on.
It worked well untill the cross shaft holding the butterfly broke.
The former owner had air/fuel issues running it too Rich on fuel,
This caused explosions inside the exhaust Down pipe and finally blew out the butterfly bypass valve.
The sled was really quiet at low throttle riding slowly thru populated areas, it had close to Stock sound Levels.
Mind you this sled is capable of 400+ HP on race fuel in Perfect tune running a Garrett GT2871RS turbo.
I Guess the former owner got it up to 375 HP on pump gas With his currect air/fuel tune and boost pressure.
Have great Luck With Your Project.
Jan-Ove
rxrider
kinger
VIP Member
HAHA get fired up and lets build some sleds again!! Its good to be back. This lightweight kick is probably my last apex build. Probably time to move on but I am dying to see what the weight comes out to and more importantly the balance. It could end up being significantly better then a new sidewinder. This year will test all the lightweight durability, battery, etc and if it gives me no fits then next year I will build my dream tunnel and finish it all to new again with paint/Powder, trim, etc. Then enjoy each year again!
kinger
VIP Member
EUREKA! Fired it and the new exhaust is as quiet as stock!!! This is awesome!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
kinger
VIP Member
New aluminum pipe is a straight shooter haha.
Next up figure out bars and gauges, will relocate the XIC from the bars to under the hood for now. Probably revamp the entire electrical controls next summer if everything else works as it should this winter.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Next up figure out bars and gauges, will relocate the XIC from the bars to under the hood for now. Probably revamp the entire electrical controls next summer if everything else works as it should this winter.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
kinger
VIP Member
Got the gauges figured out and mountain bars mounted. They have more rise in them and at about 1-2” higher then my last set up and the fit seems perfect pretending to ride in the garage. Just finish my wiring and plumbing my boost gauge, XIC, and exhaust dump and I’m ready to go!
Easy way to wire bar heaters in parallel! Hot hands here I come!
06 harness:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Easy way to wire bar heaters in parallel! Hot hands here I come!
06 harness:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Similar threads
- Replies
- 26
- Views
- 4K
- Replies
- 10
- Views
- 3K
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.