Knockout kit

[PowderFalcon]

@Winderallday! Just installed the knock out. Put 80% of the grease in. Absolutely NO improvement. Confirmed clutch components are in good spec. This kit really is a crap shoot.

 

[KnappAttack]

Someone reported to me that the idea of putting in a very unique bearing in the hub would be something to look at.
He was very descriptive as to it being a possible solution. But I will continue to give this product hopes.

I think the poster is on to something.

Here are his thoughts....
Doc Harley what I’m thinking is speaking to a high end bearing manufacturer (Boca , SKF, Timkin, ect) for a far superior stub shaft bearing.

Does anyone have the bearing size or model number?

I’m thinking that a hybrid deep groove bearing that has a tighter clearance, precision ceramic balls and more of them, which would diffuse a lot of this frequency. That is my thought.

Lakercr sent me the tighter clearance bearing to try that he thought fixed his clutch noise, but he also changed out his shaft at the same time for the stubshaft that was in the 1049 Nytro. While his machine was quiet, the tighter clearance bearing on my stock Winder stubshaft did nothing for the clutch noise.

Like Richard H said, a change in primaries will help or eliminate the clutch noise. Just know that noise doesn't seem to hurt a thing on the Yamaha Primary. The RX-1 primary I ran was really loud! Doesn't hurt a thing. So much worry for nothing really. All triple four-strokes have the same problem. The TEAM primary was quiet as a church mouse. Myself, I don't think quieting the spines on the stubshaft will fix a noise, maybe the noise at idle, but not the 4-5000 RPM rattle.

 

[Doc Harley]

@Winderallday! Just installed the knock out. Put 80% of the grease in. Absolutely NO improvement. Confirmed clutch components are in good spec. This kit really is a crap shoot.

So.... I've heard at east 10 different vids with positive results, including my own.
As long as every one here understands when installing this kit, it may or may not be a solution, I'm satisfied. But I'm more convinced it's the later.
I love my perfectly working clutch and will not be tearing it apart to satisfy others in their quest for answers.
To be honest, Even if I did tear it apart there would be lingering Skeptism, as to wether I missed something, did something wrong, etc.
Thanks for posting PowderFalcon. I'm very sorry to hear this.

 

[earthling]

I'm pretty sure he wants to hear my file That you've been analyzing for over the last 3 hours.
Please provide the team your professional analysis of my clutch running after installing the knockout kit.
More specifically, the video of it running just after start up.

I cannot, because it is posted as private on FB.. and I have been driving for a couple of hours, had to go look at ATV trails up north. I can DM you a link where you can upload the file.

 

[PowderFalcon]

So.... I've heard at east 10 different vids with positive results, including my own.
As long as every one here understands when installing this kit, it may or may not be a solution, I'm satisfied.
I love my perfectly working clutch and will not be tearing it apart to satisfy others in their quest for answers.
To be honest, Even if I did tear it apart there would be lingering Skeptism, as to wether I missed something, did something wrong, etc.
Thanks for posting PowderFalcon. I'm very sorry to hear this.

To confirm though, you said the noise went away when the machine was cold... but came back after the machine was warmed and had a few pulls?? Would you consider this a solution? You are satisfied with that?

 

[Doc Harley]

To confirm though, you said the noise went away when the machine was cold... but came back after the machine was warmed and had a few pulls?? Would you consider this a solution? You are satisfied with that?

Absolutely not, PowderFalcon!

 

[sideshowBob]

Someone reported to me that the idea of putting in a very unique bearing in the hub would be something to look at.
He was very descriptive as to it being a possible solution. But I will continue to give this product hopes.

I think the poster is on to something.

Here are his thoughts....
Doc Harley what I’m thinking is speaking to a high end bearing manufacturer (Boca , SKF, Timkin, ect) for a far superior stub shaft bearing.

Does anyone have the bearing size or model number?

I’m thinking that a hybrid deep groove bearing that has a tighter clearance, precision ceramic balls and more of them, which would diffuse a lot of this frequency. That is my thought.

I believe the Nytro guys went through all of this with different bearings ect to quiet clutch rattle many years ago with little to no improvements. The Hurricane complete shaft[no longer available] or Hurricane's noise reduction collar are the only solutions that are effective short of changing clutches.

 

[Doc Harley]

Lakercr sent me the tighter clearance bearing to try that he thought fixed his clutch noise, but he also changed out his shaft at the same time for the stubshaft that was in the 1049 Nytro. While his machine was quiet, the tighter clearance bearing on my stock Winder stubshaft did nothing for the clutch noise.

Like Richard H said, a change in primaries will help or eliminate the clutch noise. Just know that noise doesn't seem to hurt a thing on the Yamaha Primary. The RX-1 primary I ran was really loud! Doesn't hurt a thing. So much worry for nothing really. All triple four-strokes have the same problem. The TEAM primary was quiet as a church mouse. Myself, I don't think quieting the spines on the stubshaft will fix a noise, maybe the noise at idle, but not the 4-5000 RPM rattle.

I believe the Nytro guys went through all of this with different bearings ect to quiet clutch rattle many years ago with little to no improvements. The Hurricane complete shaft[no longer available] or Hurricane's noise reduction collar are the only solutions that are effective short of changing clutches.

Hmmm.....tighter tolerance at splines is where the problem Originates. So, I still believe this to be our best starting point. Then on to the bearing. Who's gonna pay that cost to take care of this minor Nuisance?
Sounds like either the hurricane noise reduction collar or different clutch are the only Viable options we have today.
Happy hunting..... I think I'll go back in wax my hood. Lol.

 

[lakercr]

Hmmm.....tighter tolerance at splines is where the problem Originates. So, I still believe this to be our best starting point. Then on to the bearing. Who's gonna pay that cost to take care of this minor Nuisance?
Sounds like either the hurricane noise reduction collar or different clutch are the only Viable options we have today.
Happy hunting..... I think I'll go back in wax my hood. Lol.

There's a Nytro stub shaft on eBay right now for $95.00, and the bearing is about $25. I'd pay $120 all day long to make this noise go away!

I did my sled 2 years ago and it was as quiet when I sold it in April as the day I put the stub/bearing in (mine is the 2017 on previous page).

 

[Doc Harley]

I can finally put this decal on. I've been waiting 7 years...Go Yami!! Haha

 

[Doc Harley]

There's a Nytro stub shaft on eBay right now for $95.00, and the bearing is about $25. I'd pay $120 all day long to make this noise go away!

I did my sled 2 years ago and it was as quiet when I sold it in April as the day I put the stub/bearing in (mine is the 2017 on previous page).

That is well worth it. Thanks lakercr, I will definitely go this direction, not playing! Just need to get some rest from this whole knockout kit situation....

 

[Doc Harley]

Again, thanks lakercr. I found a nitro hub for $99.99. let me know which is the best bearing and part number to replace.
And I'll get this taken care of, relatively soon.

 

[Doc Harley]

I'm going to pull the hub this weekend and repack it with different Grease. And go from there.
That's all I can do.

 

[lakercr]

Again, thanks lakercr. I found a nitro hub for $99.99. let me know which is the best bearing and part number to replace.
And I'll get this taken care of, relatively soon.

The exact part number is in the title of the vids I posted on the previous page: KML 6307-2RDQE6. It's mentioned in one of the previous posts, but to emphasize - you need the stub shaft from a 1049cc engine (not the older carbed 973cc). For the price of the seal you might want to replace it at the same time as well.

Look forward to hearing your results.

 

[Doc Harley]

The exact part number is in the title of the vids I posted on the previous page: KML 6307-2RDQE6. It's mentioned in one of the previous posts, but to emphasize - you need the stub shaft from a 1049cc engine (not the older carbed 973cc). For the price of the seal you might want to replace it at the same time as well.

Look forward to hearing your results.

overlooking the obvious, always been my flaw. Lol ...ty sir.