Knockout kit

[1nc 2000]

The exact part number is in the title of the vids I posted on the previous page: KML 6307-2RDQE6. It's mentioned in one of the previous posts, but to emphasize - you need the stub shaft from a 1049cc engine (not the older carbed 973cc). For the price of the seal you might want to replace it at the same time as well.

Look forward to hearing your results.

What up with the 1049 stub shaft?

 

[Srxspec]

I just did a brand new 2024 SRX, has 14.7 miles on it, 1.3 hours of run time, all of it on my chassis dyno. Customer supplied the knock out kit with AK's grease. I shoved as much grease in as I could (grease came in a zip lock baggy, not sure how many ounces). It definitely quieted down the rattle even more, ran it up to 190 degrees and can't say I could audibly hear a change as the engine warms up. Will it last forever, likely not, does it help in the present, it appears as though it does.

 

[sideshowBob]

I am a very tolerant patient person but honestly...I have grown weary of this thread. If you want to ensure a quieter clutch/stub shaft on the Yamaha 998 either buy a different clutch that has been proven to be quieter or buy Hurricane's Clutch Noise Reduction ring...as with most things in life there is no easy button here.

 

[lakercr]

I am a very tolerant patient person but honestly...I have grown weary of this thread. If you want to ensure a quieter clutch/stub shaft on the Yamaha 998 either buy a different clutch that has been proven to be quieter or buy Hurricane's Clutch Noise Reduction ring...as with most things in life there is no easy button here.

Or the option that I've posted in this thread (and also 2 years ago). 23 pages and counting and I don't see any solution - other than my own - that demonstrably eliminates the issue. Not saying there aren't others out there, but I thinks my videos speak for themselves.

I wouldn't discount them as an option.

 

[Doc Harley]

I just did a brand new 2024 SRX, has 14.7 miles on it, 1.3 hours of run time, all of it on my chassis dyno. Customer supplied the knock out kit with AK's grease. I shoved as much grease in as I could (grease came in a zip lock baggy, not sure how many ounces). It definitely quieted down the rattle even more, ran it up to 190 degrees and can't say I could audibly hear a change as the engine warms up. Will it last forever, likely not, does it help in the present, it appears as though it does.

I tried to explain that to everybody. AK is using Grease that most of us dream of. It's over $100 a tube. Maybe more.
I know I've got about 15 minutes worth of ride time on the grease that Tapp supplies.

 

[lakercr]

What up with the 1049 stub shaft?

My best guess is that it has tighter tolerances on the splines. I tried to measure/compare to the Sidewinder stub shaft but it's pretty tough to do with a set of Vernier calipers, which is all I have.

 

[NYTurbo]

I'm going to pull the hub this weekend and repack it with different Grease. And go from there.
That's all I can do.

Be nice to see pictures of your knock out ring and what’s left in the stub shaft for grease when u pull it apart

 

[Doc Harley]

Be nice to see pictures of your knock out ring and what’s left in the stub shaft for grease when u pull it apart

Yep....I'll get pics on here. I didn't think of that.

 

[PowderFalcon]

You can throw a load of elephant cum in the damn thing and it’s still a fart in the wind weather it helps or not!

Other than initial idle (for some) this kit is mediocre at best!

 

[iceback]

Sorry but common sense will tell you that taking up space in the splines with grease only lasts for a little while , I have both Sidewinder and King Cat one is quite the other ( Sidewinder ) is not , kept both well maintained drive clutches , you do the math , think Hurricane is the only fix .

 

[Doc Harley]

Well...might be one more situation in regards to the Tapp seal kit. With the lack of instructional guidance, if green loctite was not used, it's very possible the seal & collar could very well stay in place with the shaft, as the hub is removed.
Now I'm not exactly sure if that's ok or not, however I do know guys cannot extract the collar and think it's going to be ok to just put the hub back on.
Motor spinning 9,000rpms. Hmmm
1) is that ok?
2) of not, how to remove?
Your thoughts?

 

[74Nitro]

Sorry but common sense will tell you that taking up space in the splines with grease only lasts for a little while , I have both Sidewinder and King Cat one is quite the other ( Sidewinder ) is not , kept both well maintained drive clutches , you do the math , think Hurricane is the only fix .

Where's it going? Do you think it is all going to push past the 0-ring?

 

[NYTurbo]

JT
Why would u not be able to extract the collar ?

Are u saying your collar is no longer on your hub ?

 

[Doc Harley]

JT
Why would u not be able to extract the collar ?

Are u saying your collar is no longer on your hub ?

The hub was removed. Collar & seal Separated from the hub and remained on the crankshaft.
Wondering if its ok to just reinstall the hub? I think I know the answer.

Note: this is not my sled. Unfortunately, I did not use green on my collar as well. So ill be expecting something to deal with myself.

 

[hibshman25]

The exact part number is in the title of the vids I posted on the previous page: KML 6307-2RDQE6. It's mentioned in one of the previous posts, but to emphasize - you need the stub shaft from a 1049cc engine (not the older carbed 973cc). For the price of the seal you might want to replace it at the same time as well.

Look forward to hearing your results.

Not at shop to compare, but is the spline size different on the 973 vs 1049? The 973 did not have gear for crank position sensor but that would not matter on a 998.