LTX 137 lack of transfer..Reasoning/Solution?

[cannondale27]

Perhaps we should start measuring at the rear scissor - top out stops and transfer rod or hole? Wieght does affect this a lot. Guys you understand this mod would be for performance speed and transfer wise not ride or bump absorption. We have that dialed already between awesome stock shocks,revalves and aftermarket shocks. Think about it if you could have SRX hieght with that same or very close to same Big Bump ability we have now. To do that the sled needs to be low without losing any travel.

 

[**sj**]

You really need to put on all your gear to measure correctly. I weigh just over 190 and mine didn’t move much. I like the torsions to be set on #1 with just me. That way I can crank them up as I add gear. I also have a 2-up kit on mine. Adding my 9 year old nets out another 80. Rides OK like that! With my revalve I may need to spin the couplers when he is on.

9 year old...man breaking in the kid the right way...will be an adrenaline junky like dad!

 

[Never Satisfied]

9 year old...man breaking in the kid the right way...will be an adrenaline junky like dad!

Yeah, they love it. I have a 9 & 11 we take along. 2 ups on mine and my wife’s 7000. Next year the older one will have his own.

 

[XP123]

I hope you guys find a solution for the lack of transfer so it will satisfy the needs many of you have. As for me I'm plenty satisfied with the transfer as it is. I know I'm getting older and maybe that's why I prefer a sled that is planted and stays flat even when I hit the throttle coming out of a corner. The reason why the engineers worked so hard to remove excess transfer in these sleds by coupling the suspensions is because they handle and ride better. I know for racing and that "playful" feel more transfer is preferred but I must be in the minority here. I also like my sleds quiet and there are many who like more noise. I think Rockerdan did the right thing by buying the 129" RTX. That is the sled for those who want more transfer. 137" sleds are more designed for comfort and deeper snow capabilities. Maybe some guys just bought the wrong sled?

 

[viper strike]

Just take off the black stop blocks out and put the shaft back in. Or leave it out to be uncoupled completely..obviously shock settings per weight and rider style is key.

 

[stevewithOCD]

Just take off the black stop blocks out and put the shaft back it. Or leave it out to be uncoupled completely..obviously shock settings per weight and rider style is key.

Tried it. Didn't work. That's why we're trying new things.

 

[KnappAttack]

I hope you guys find a solution for the lack of transfer so it will satisfy the needs many of you have. As for me I'm plenty satisfied with the transfer as it is. I know I'm getting older and maybe that's why I prefer a sled that is planted and stays flat even when I hit the throttle coming out of a corner. The reason why the engineers worked so hard to remove excess transfer in these sleds by coupling the suspensions is because they handle and ride better. I know for racing and that "playful" feel more transfer is preferred but I must be in the minority here. I also like my sleds quiet and there are many who like more noise. I think Rockerdan did the right thing by buying the 129" RTX. That is the sled for those who want more transfer. 137" sleds are more designed for comfort and deeper snow capabilities. Maybe some guys just bought the wrong sled?

For racing you DO NOT WANT TRANSFER! You want to do what ever you can to keep the front end down and move forward and not upward.
Some of these guys want lift I guess without really adding traction and power to get it naturally.

Its hard enough to keep the drag sleds from riding up on the rear wheels alone. Once you start the upward motion, it will keep going so the key is to run stiff rear spings, flat front arms, no front arm spring and tight limiters pulling the front of the suspension off the ground at rest. Totally backwards of what some of these guys are trying to do here popping wheelies on purpose.

Tried it. Didn't work. That's why we're trying new things.

Did you take the shaft out completely? You can't keep the skis down when you pull both the blocks and shaft it transfers so hard.

 

[PowderFalcon]

For racing you DO NOT WANT TRANSFER! You want to do what ever you can to keep the front end down and move forward and not upward.
Some of these guys want lift I guess without really adding traction and power to get it naturally.

Its hard enough to keep the drag sleds from riding up on the rear wheels alone. Once you start the upward motion, it will keep going so the key is to run stiff rear spings, flat front arms, no front arm spring and tight limiters pulling the front of the suspension off the ground at rest. Totally backwards of what some of these guys are trying to do here popping wheelies on purpose.



Did you take the shaft out completely? You can't keep the skis down when you pull both the blocks and shaft it transfers so hard.

Hey Knapper, no potential damage when removing that bar and blocks? Was going to try that last year but wasn’t sure how the sled would act.

Thx

 

[cannondale27]

For racing you DO NOT WANT TRANSFER! You want to do what ever you can to keep the front end down and move forward and not upward.
Some of these guys want lift I guess without really adding traction and power to get it naturally.

Its hard enough to keep the drag sleds from riding up on the rear wheels alone. Once you start the upward motion, it will keep going so the key is to run stiff rear spings, flat front arms, no front arm spring and tight limiters pulling the front of the suspension off the ground at rest. Totally backwards of what some of these guys are trying to do here popping wheelies on purpose.



Did you take the shaft out completely? You can't keep the skis down when you pull both the blocks and shaft it transfers so hard.

I don't need anymore transfer. Just want it low without losing travel. At speed. The more the better.

 

[viper strike]

No removing blocks or shaft will not hurt anything. On a 2015 ltx-dx 137 track. With the stock 8 inch rear wheel set up. I noticed major difference with the blocks in vs blocks removed.

 

[viper strike]

Speedwerks makes a replaceable transfer block set up with multiple adjustments.
The lowest setting on theirs is the same if you just removed the black stoppers.

 

[hibshman25]

No removing blocks or shaft and blocks will not hurt anything.

Have you cycled the the arm through its full range of motion to be sure it wouldn't hit the idler wheel on an LTX? I'd want to be certain there is no physical interference possibility .

 

[actionjack]

More than 1 person thinks this will both squat the suspension, improve ride, and create more transfer. I have a Racewerx adjustable block installed and the reason I’m interested in this thread is it doesn’t seem to be much difference to me. Any of the measures related to the scissor stop blocks does not address the geometry where moving the bottom of the scissor mount does. I might try it.

 

[dsimonRX1]

I've been on this chassis for 6 years now. I you want to really pull the skis you take the blocks and shaft out, but be aware the skis do not come back down until you get off the throttle. It squats back and stays there. It's not a setup for trail riding.
I pull the blocks out and put the shaft back in with the flat facing forward. If you're studded properly it hooks up and goes. Not a ton of ski lift, but as Mike said you really don't want too much of that for straight line acceleration. Mine comes out of the hole extremely hard and stays relatively flat. IMO the only way to go is with the blocks removed and shaft in place. If you're after a lot of ski lift then you really need a 129.

 

[**sj**]

if you run j&t big wheels and the rod out....others have hit and damage occurred...if you run with just the rod...you will beat the hell out of your suspension scissor ..

Ive modded the lowest setting on the racewerx block...it is now like the rod with a rubber hose...I prefer to be able to have the block to have the ability to keep the skis more planted when corner to coerner

also..I have to believe the rod in strengthen the rear suspension?