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Ltx se blowing belts

I knew I should have bought the thundercat but didn't because always thought yamaha clutches were good I guess it's the other way around.
 

I knew I should have bought the thundercat but didn't because always thought yamaha clutches were good I guess it's the other way around.
Happened to just about everyone here too. 2017 very few cats sold and a ton of winders for that very reason, good ole YAM clutching. Turns out YAM likely sourced things out to china...lol

If I buy another 998, it will certainly be with TEAM clutches.

Dan
 
Don't think China has a whole lot to do with it. I think lack of development and being rushed into production is more like it. I don't think they even needed something new there old clutching was just fine all it was is a selling point. Pretty sure they tried to copy Polaris P85 primary but failed miserably and as far as secondary goes a roller has to be the way to go right every body else has one so it has to be the way to go. There's no way the old slider will work. Not!!!
 
You guys say the clutches run hot. So what about adding a small side vent to keep them cooler? Just a thought
 
You guys say the clutches run hot. So what about adding a small side vent to keep them cooler? Just a thought

HAHA, I have been running vents enough up front to feed a jet turbine and even mounted a fan for this year. Heat does not seem to be the issue, just blown and corded belts on the tunes at 270 and up.

I've gone back to the old Yamaha clutches to start this season and set the newer POS Winder primary & roller secondary on the bench. Hopeful that this will be the season to get it in check finally.
 
Don't think China has a whole lot to do with it. I think lack of development and being rushed into production is more like it. I don't think they even needed something new there old clutching was just fine all it was is a selling point. Pretty sure they tried to copy Polaris P85 primary but failed miserably and as far as secondary goes a roller has to be the way to go right every body else has one so it has to be the way to go. There's no way the old slider will work. Not!!!

Copy the old P85 Polaris clutches? :rofl:

No way a Button Clutch will work on a Winder?:rofl:

Most running a stock tune have no issues, adding big power has a lot 2 do with belt failures. Making blanket statements with zero supporting facts won’t get you much respect.
 
Big tunes ,have to purchase pro4, stm ,TAPP belt problems disappear, by the time you purchase tunes and supporting mods continue with clutching, people must have money for all the other stuff ,mods etc just go the next 1/2 mile and finish. Between weights springs $100 helix’s , $100 belts that many people have bought many times , you would probably save money
 
TAPP will help fix alot....and you can run it with stock secondary if you wanted to save some cash but likely best setup would be to add the pro4 secondary too.

I still think other setups alot cheaper can work well for 270 and under tunes. The TEAM clutches on Cats do alot better then their YAM equivalents, So its great to see Mike will be putting the tests on OLDER YAM clutches which i'm certain will do better, and lets not forget the latest part number PB80, which did VERY well on the 1200s, with no rollers to wear out or weights to rattle around, certainly the quietest clutches ever made. So while TAPP would be the pinnacle of clutching for big power there are some far less expensive setups that need to be bourn out IMO.

Dan
 
Just looking for suggestions on what has worked for people. I had a belt blower which is somewhat better with STM weights Black Green I think primary and Black Orange secondary 41/35 Dalton Helix, Mo-Flow vent kit, Hurricane alignment tool 58.5 align and 825 belts. I still blew one last year, but that is better than the 6 8JPs I went threw the first 2 years and that was with stock power. One thing I dont seem to have trouble with would be rollers. I have my stock primary rollers with about 6K miles on them and my secondary's where replaced once because the factory ones when they came out where bad so the secondaries have about 5K miles on them. I just dont want to be blowing belts all of the time even normal riding. The belt I blew last year was multiple hard pulls up to top speed let up for a minute then try again racing a buddy. His SRX didnt blow a belt in the same conditions, but I was beating on it so I can understand that one.
 
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Big tunes ,have to purchase pro4, stm ,TAPP belt problems disappear, by the time you purchase tunes and supporting mods continue with clutching, people must have money for all the other stuff ,mods etc just go the next 1/2 mile and finish. Between weights springs $100 helix’s , $100 belts that many people have bought many times , you would probably save money
Amen
 
If you turn them up, you are well out of the design envelope for stock clutches. Nowadays, turning up a 4 stroke is like adding an entire extra engine! Think about that for a minute. We add 70HP with a 2 minute flash! So it should not surprise anyone that we need to add billet clutches. Ask yourself, if Yamaha and Cat were to release a 270HP or even a 240HP stock sled (which would be easy to do), do you think they would just leave the clutches alone? Doubt it. I think they don't run more boost stock because they know they are at the end of the design envelope with current low cost cast clutch technology. Adding 2-3lbs of boost would be easy engine-wise with no impact on warranty costs, EXCEPT for clutches/belts. Totally opposite problem of two strokes, where more HP = motor issues but fine with clutches (because they would still be well within the design envelope). It's relatively cheap to get HP out of a four stroke turbo, but you need expensive clutches to harness it. In the end it's all the same...you have to pay to play and there's no such thing as a free lunch. Two stroke = pay for expensive motor mods and pay the reliability costs there, or four stroke = pay for expensive clutches and pay the reliability cost there. Just my opinion!

PS, in the dirt those guys don't even blink at adding billet clutches to their SxS's. They just have to with the heavier weight and summer temperatures.
 
TCAT I see what you are saying, but my clutches stock motor ate belts. I just dont know if they are the best setup period from Yamaha. Especially when you are used to the RX1 and Apex clutching, which were perfect no matter what

Buying an expensive primary and secondary clutch isn’t the answer to your belt blowing problems. Yes they are more reliable but sleds with 400hp have run the apex primary, no issues.
Secondary clutch dictates belt tension period.
Roller clutches are extremely prone to overshift on the big end, leading to slippage. You need to have perfect alignment under full power at full shift. The mounts are rubber and do flex some. Bigger tunes flex you engine more and require more offset and forward engine tilt like the old days. Best Scenario is a clutch tie or motor snubber so clutches maintain straightness under all power situations. Modified clutch setups will help for some alignment issues but can only go so far.
 
Buying an expensive primary and secondary clutch isn’t the answer to your belt blowing problems. Yes they are more reliable but sleds with 400hp have run the apex primary, no issues.
Secondary clutch dictates belt tension period.
Roller clutches are extremely prone to overshift on the big end, leading to slippage. You need to have perfect alignment under full power at full shift. The mounts are rubber and do flex some. Bigger tunes flex you engine more and require more offset and forward engine tilt like the old days. Best Scenario is a clutch tie or motor snubber so clutches maintain straightness under all power situations. Modified clutch setups will help for some alignment issues but can only go so far.
Alignment is always pointed to, but rarely as big an issue. The 1100 turbo cats had actual tied clutches and blew belts like crazy due to junk clutches. In fact decoupling the clutches with the yamaha motor has been a help for belt life. The mounts with these yamacats are really robust from the factory...that's why you don't see a lot of aftermarket products aimed at fixing a problem here.
 


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