Machine secondary

[1100saber]

Any tune that is gonna work well, IMO needs to breathe. There are several Stock MODDED mufflers out there, I have a TD myself, i like quiet and its near stock quiet. Sandale make an amazing stock modded too, and Dave makes a "replica of stocker" which eliminates the need to have to mod your OWN muffer. I have not heard but it was designed by Dave to be stock like quiet and looks same, yet all these have a full 2.5" intlet/outlet for HP. Personally I would never run anything louder anymore....These make huge power and boost, darn near same as most louder 2.5s aftermarket.

Dave will be calling his handlebar button, "flash to pass". It allows one to hit button on the fly,even under acceleration....Hence "flash to pass" and off you go, blowing the doors off your buddy like hitting NOS button..lol

The buttons will be avail very soon, before the snow flies. I tested mine for GAP last spring, works flawless so see my videos, all in my build thread.

Dan

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The button for tune selection is a nice feature, and I will be installing a few on my customers sleds. My personal sled may not get one. I run TD max spool 17 at all times on the trail. Never felt the need to quickly switch to a slower map on the fly.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Thanks again Dan I will revisit your build thread to see your progress. I was curious about the hurricane maps and if they (270hp 290hp) run ok if the gas quality isn't that good. One never knows what their getting out there in the middle of nowhere. I'm only asking because the td power trail map runs on low quality fuel , or so they say.

As a test, I ran an entire weekend in Qc, on 87 octane.....yep. The trails up there are big and fast, and even running avg speeds of 65 to 85 ish for many miles on end, I never saw a knock lite even on 87. With GAP engineering the system(TD & Hurricane) the knock lite warns you, and it ALSO will help save engine(pull back timing) if for some reason you ignore the lite.

To be clear, the lite rarely will ever be seen TRAIL RIDING. In my local area, I can hammer WOT corner to corner all day long on 87 and even with the 290 map never see a light, as my trails are more tight and twisty. But in Qc they are super highways . If you hold WOT long enough, then the lite starts to flicker, it comes on fast on 270 and 290 maps, and wont come on as fast on 240 map. That is all with 87. So running the proper 91 for 270, you can hold it WOT much longer before you see knock lite. And 93 octane id run for 290 map if you are going to run lakes WOT for long periods.

So the best part I find about this entire setup, its far better then stock where you have no idea if you got bad gas or what is happening, so its actually alot safer with a tune and the knock lite/protection factor. Way up north, many times all you can get is 87 octane and its nice to know I ran all weekend at big speeds with no knock on 87 only. Just gotta watch when you go WOT and get off it when it flickers. But for any speeds below WOT, I found the ability to run it on 270 all weekend, This is why I love the handlebar button so much. Flip between maps on the fly, and each map has a diff feel, from bottom end snap to top RPMS. Couldnt ask for more in terms of performance. And when you can get all the maps for price of one, its a no brainer, and Dave is always a phone call away with the best support around.

Dan

 

[kimcoop1324]

I just purchased the hurricane 240hp, 270hp, and 290hp bundle and was wondering if the Dalton weights would be a better match than the stm weights that come with the kit? also very curious if the stock muffler bundle 225hp, 240hp, and 270hp would suit me better for I like to set and forget and I am guessing the latter wouldn't require any adjustments to the clutching to flip between all three maps or would it?

 

[KnappAttack]

Dalton weights are much more user friendly for changing weight. You can't expect to "forget it" unless you clutch just for one tune and don't care about optimal performance on another higher or lower tune. You'll either be under or over revving somewhere.

Expect about 2-3 grams change per tune when changing up or down on the Dalton weights.

 

[Crossfire12]

I run Hurricane’s stock replacement. I’m in Maine, have had no issues. You can put the cover from your stock muffler on it if you’re worried about it.

It comes with covers looks like stock only shiney.

 

[staggs65]

It comes with covers looks like stock only shiney.

Yes, but if you want to be covert you can put the factory cover with the compliance stamp on

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I just purchased the hurricane 240hp, 270hp, and 290hp bundle and was wondering if the Dalton weights would be a better match than the stm weights that come with the kit? also very curious if the stock muffler bundle 225hp, 240hp, and 270hp would suit me better for I like to set and forget and I am guessing the latter wouldn't require any adjustments to the clutching to flip between all three maps or would it?

If you have stock muffler, then you would want stock muffler tunes.....if you plan to run an aftermarket muffler or a modded stock muffler, then you can run the regular jukebox of tunes like I have.

As Mike mentioned, the STMs are not as easy to add/remove weight. With the Daltons, you simply add/remove small allen key slugs anytime, no need to remove clutch or anything, can even be done trailside if you like. This is likely why most of us run Daltons.

What most guys will end up doing is setting there RPMS to revv a tad high on the tune you run most often. Then the lower tune will rev a tad low but good for touring then. Really depends which tunes you go with.

Pics below of my dalton adjustable(Dtya-1), you can see how easy to adjust.

Dan

 

[kimcoop1324]

If you have stock muffler, then you would want stock muffler tunes.....if you plan to run an aftermarket muffler or a modded stock muffler, then you can run the regular jukebox of tunes like I have.

As Mike mentioned, the STMs are not as easy to add/remove weight. With the Daltons, you simply add/remove small allen key slugs anytime, no need to remove clutch or anything, can even be done trailside if you like. This is likely why most of us run Daltons.

What most guys will end up doing is setting there RPMS to revv a tad high on the tune you run most often. Then the lower tune will rev a tad low but good for touring then. Really depends which tunes you go with.

Pics below of my dalton adjustable(Dtya-1), you can see how easy to adjust.

Dan

View attachment 141822 View attachment 141823 View attachment 141824 View attachment 141825 View attachment 141826

Thanks for all the great information on the clutches. I was leaning toward the Dalton weights for the reason you mentioned about how easy they are to adjust. I figure I would mostly run between the 240 and 270 tune and on occasion run the 290 ( lakes or what not). Dan what would you run for weights to be able to switch between 240 and 270 without having to add more weight. the reason I ask is if you cant actually run at least two maps on the same weight then why would the flash to pass button be of any use? I spoke with dave and he did tell me the stm weights would work on the lower tunes but would need more weight in order to run the 290 map. Would this be the same for the Dalton weights you have in yours? Thanks for any help. I have learned so much from all those on this great forum

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Thanks for all the great information on the clutches. I was leaning toward the Dalton weights for the reason you mentioned about how easy they are to adjust. I figure I would mostly run between the 240 and 270 tune and on occasion run the 290 ( lakes or what not). Dan what would you run for weights to be able to switch between 240 and 270 without having to add more weight. the reason I ask is if you cant actually run at least two maps on the same weight then why would the flash to pass button be of any use? I spoke with dave and he did tell me the stm weights would work on the lower tunes but would need more weight in order to run the 290 map. Would this be the same for the Dalton weights you have in yours? Thanks for any help. I have learned so much from all those on this great forum

It depends on the tunes you have.....with my aftermarket muffler/Hurricane tunes(240r/270r/290r) I run these DTYA-1s as shown in pics above. I like them overall, set at 77.3g per arm. Using one 2.5g slug tightened all the way down into tip.(not like the last pic where I was testing slug in Heel) If you have stock muffler tunes those may need a lighter weight like the QAY70. There is some overlap in the weights between the 70s and dtya-1.

With 77.3g and my bk/red(48/12okg)spring and two glide washers in Primary, and then a B/O in secondary at 6/1 settings....I will rev a max rpms of 9000-9100 on 270 map. 240 map revs approx 8550-8600, and while I rarely run the 290 map, it is only a tad higher rpm then the 270. I find the 270 map to be used 90% of time. This is for overall everyday trail riding. The reason I like it here, is when you spin it 9000k or so, this seems to be the sweet spot for corner to corner SNAP, and serious nose lifting off knolls power. Now I realize the best rpm is closer to 8800-8900 on the dyno, and Dave has told me this many times.

So, if you are talking speed running, and holding it WOT all the time, then of course you want to dial the weights in for that 8800 range at whichever map you run most. But remember if you are running WOT for any sort of distance, you will NEED the fuel for that type of riding. If I am gonna go out and radar run, or lake race or just do speed runs...I would certainly dial in my 290 map(or the most powerful map you have) for 8800 or so(maybe need 82g or so?) and then fuel up with some 93 octane or add some Lucas octane booster or torco additive, or some race fuel. My buds sled pushes 31psi and never sees any knock lite flicker at all, its cause he runs C16 exclusively for fuel. He does not trail ride.

Hopefully that gives you some sorta of idea where to go....Helix depends on tune, and if you run tight trails or big wide open ones, and gearing.....most here will tell you to stick to stock gearing, as many of us who went to 22 gear found its tough on belt life.

Dan

Weights from dalton

 

[kimcoop1324]

It depends on the tunes you have.....with my aftermarket muffler/Hurricane tunes(240r/270r/290r) I run these DTYA-1s as shown in pics above. I like them overall, set at 77.3g per arm. Using one 2.5g slug tightened all the way down into tip.(not like the last pic where I was testing slug in Heel) If you have stock muffler tunes those may need a lighter weight like the QAY70. There is some overlap in the weights between the 70s and dtya-1.

With 77.3g and my bk/red(48/12okg)spring and two glide washers in Primary, and then a B/O in secondary at 6/1 settings....I will rev a max rpms of 9000-9100 on 270 map. 240 map revs approx 8550-8600, and while I rarely run the 290 map, it is only a tad higher rpm then the 270. I find the 270 map to be used 90% of time. This is for overall everyday trail riding. The reason I like it here, is when you spin it 9000k or so, this seems to be the sweet spot for corner to corner SNAP, and serious nose lifting off knolls power. Now I realize the best rpm is closer to 8800-8900 on the dyno, and Dave has told me this many times.

So, if you are talking speed running, and holding it WOT all the time, then of course you want to dial the weights in for that 8800 range at whichever map you run most. But remember if you are running WOT for any sort of distance, you will NEED the fuel for that type of riding. If I am gonna go out and radar run, or lake race or just do speed runs...I would certainly dial in my 290 map(or the most powerful map you have) for 8800 or so(maybe need 82g or so?) and then fuel up with some 93 octane or add some Lucas octane booster or torco additive, or some race fuel. My buds sled pushes 31psi and never sees any knock lite flicker at all, its cause he runs C16 exclusively for fuel. He does not trail ride.

Hopefully that gives you some sorta of idea where to go....Helix depends on tune, and if you run tight trails or big wide open ones, and gearing.....most here will tell you to stick to stock gearing, as many of us who went to 22 gear found its tough on belt life.

Dan

Weights from dalton
View attachment 141829

Thanks Dan That info truly helps my decision on going to Dalton weights. I purchased the hurricane race tune bundle along with the trail muffler they suggested to run those tunes. I have the Dalton blk/org secondary spring and stock helix for now. I was going to run the Dalton blk/green spring in primary . I run mostly trails and like you corner to corner all day. on occasion I would like to run on lake and then I can add weight for the 290 map. I believe the only way I would run the 240 map is if the gas quality was not worthy to run the 270. When you find a helix you like please let me know. thanks again

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Thanks Dan That info truly helps my decision on going to Dalton weights. I purchased the hurricane race tune bundle along with the trail muffler they suggested to run those tunes. I have the Dalton blk/org secondary spring and stock helix for now. I was going to run the Dalton blk/green spring in primary . I run mostly trails and like you corner to corner all day. on occasion I would like to run on lake and then I can add weight for the 290 map. I believe the only way I would run the 240 map is if the gas quality was not worthy to run the 270. When you find a helix you like please let me know. thanks again

I would not run green primary....its a high engagement spring, I did not like it...Glide washers add a tad to these in engagement and help prevent coil bind in primary. I ran the bk/blue which was fine, and now run the bk/red. Lower the better IMO. Sounds like same tunes I have, so DTYa1s around 77 to 80g depending how you want to rev.

Stock 35 helix will work but may max out rpms quickly on 270 quick spool map. Many like 41/35, and I liked my 39/35, and now testing a 37/35 for tight trails. 270 map can easily pull the 41/35 for great ET. I want least slip of belt and good corner to corner rpm. All depends on your riding style and area, and stock gears or not.

Primary spring chart

 

[kimcoop1324]

I would not run green primary....its a high engagement spring, I did not like it...Glide washers add a tad to these in engagement and help prevent coil bind in primary. I ran the bk/blue which was fine, and now run the bk/red. Lower the better IMO. Sounds like same tunes I have, so DTYa1s around 77 to 80g depending how you want to rev.

Stock 35 helix will work but may max out rpms quickly on 270 quick spool map. Many like 41/35, and I liked my 39/35, and now testing a 37/35 for tight trails. 270 map can easily pull the 41/35 for great ET. I want least slip of belt and good corner to corner rpm. All depends on your riding style and area, and stock gears or not.

Primary spring chart
View attachment 141832

That sounds like the blk/red would be a spring I will try instead of the blk/green. I will be using the glide washers as well. Dan didn't you sell your 39/35 helix awhile back? Have you put any miles on the new 37/35 yet? I have the hole shot helix from thunder but was told it may not work so well on the 270 tune. so if I ride tight trails and corner to corner with some straight a ways I should run between 37 to 41?

 

[Michael Potter]

Hi Dan. Thanks for all the info. Just to confirm. When you say B/O I’m assuming that’s the Dalton Black Orange spring. Lastly can I ask where you purchased the glide washers from. Thanks again.

 

[Mototown]

After aligning clutches with the hurricane tool , I read between 58-59 mm , Is that u guys are getting ?

 

[WinterWolf]

After aligning clutches with the hurricane tool , I read between 58-59 mm , Is that u guys are getting ?

Did your secondary have a shim/washer behind it?? Did you have to grind/machine your secondary at all??