Need Help on This One - Primary

[Crossfire12]

I think it's important to torque to 100 lbs first especially when tuned.
The taper will slip and cause damage.

Never had a problem, my Manuel even states it, if you tighten to 100 then loosen it what do you do next??? Torque to spec?? Why tighten to 100 loosen it below 50 ,and then torques to 50, can somebody explain? Just warm up after ,torque a gain. I did this on many tuned sleds

 

[Sevey]

All the input is great - but still nothing.

Pumped the hole with grease - tried using the breaker bar but it would not give. Heated the clutch up smoking hot, still nothing. I weigh 180 lbs and had my entire body on the bar. Would love to know how many ft lbs that was. Had a friend hold a cro bar that was through the clutch to keep it from turning.

Got fed up, hit it with the impact gun. The impact gun gave up and died.

Bought a new more powerful gun.

Heated it up again, greased it full. Hit it with the new gun. Puller kept turning and waited for the pop but nothing. Backed it out, puller looked like a pretzel. Also could tell the threads are taking a beating so i quit.

So far this thing has bent 2 pullers, and killed one impact gun.

Don’t have gear oil and thread tape to try that method. Plus, putting the sled on its slide is tough as its all apart - no skid, no skiis etc.

I am quitting for now before i break something. Really fed up with thing.
Ms

 

[Crossfire12]

Tighten up let sit overnight ,it will have constant tension, let her sit

 

[stohlem]

When you say they looked like pretzels, sure leads me to think that you're bottoming out the pullers. Check depth of threaded hole with length of puller.

 

[74Nitro]

Never had a problem, my Manuel even states it, if you tighten to 100 then loosen it what do you do next??? Torque to spec?? Why tighten to 100 loosen it below 50 ,and then torques to 50, can somebody explain? Just warm up after ,torque a gain. I did this on many tuned sleds

They want it forced onto the taper for a very tight fit, but don't want the bolt left at that torque setting.
Makes sense to me.

 

[74Nitro]

All the input is great - but still nothing.

Pumped the hole with grease - tried using the breaker bar but it would not give. Heated the clutch up smoking hot, still nothing. I weigh 180 lbs and had my entire body on the bar. Would love to know how many ft lbs that was. Had a friend hold a cro bar that was through the clutch to keep it from turning.

Got fed up, hit it with the impact gun. The impact gun gave up and died.

Bought a new more powerful gun.

Heated it up again, greased it full. Hit it with the new gun. Puller kept turning and waited for the pop but nothing. Backed it out, puller looked like a pretzel. Also could tell the threads are taking a beating so i quit.

So far this thing has bent 2 pullers, and killed one impact gun.

Don’t have gear oil and thread tape to try that method. Plus, putting the sled on its slide is tough as its all apart - no skid, no skiis etc.

I am quitting for now before i break something. Really fed up with thing.
Ms

The problem with using grease is that you end up with air pockets trapped in there which negates the hydraulic effect. In other words, it does nothing. Like having air trapped in your brakes.
Take a break.
Get the right tools. Thick oil and Teflon tape. Cut the bent end off the puller, it should still work for hydraulic lock. Then follow my earlier instructions EXACTLY.
As far as putting the sled on its side, call a buddy to hold it. Or, what I have done is welded a metal 'dish' so to speak, on the top of an axle stand. I can tip sleds up by myself and set the custom axle stand under the end of the handle bar grip for various work, like greasing, inspecting, or popping clutches!

 

[sideshowBob]

All the input is great - but still nothing.

Pumped the hole with grease - tried using the breaker bar but it would not give. Heated the clutch up smoking hot, still nothing. I weigh 180 lbs and had my entire body on the bar. Would love to know how many ft lbs that was. Had a friend hold a cro bar that was through the clutch to keep it from turning.

Got fed up, hit it with the impact gun. The impact gun gave up and died.

Bought a new more powerful gun.

Heated it up again, greased it full. Hit it with the new gun. Puller kept turning and waited for the pop but nothing. Backed it out, puller looked like a pretzel. Also could tell the threads are taking a beating so i quit.

So far this thing has bent 2 pullers, and killed one impact gun.

Don’t have gear oil and thread tape to try that method. Plus, putting the sled on its slide is tough as its all apart - no skid, no skiis etc.

I am quitting for now before i break something. Really fed up with thing.
Ms

Wow...definitely keep us posted

 

[stohlem]

What I'm asking is the puller head bottoming

 

[ClutchMaster]

Cut the puller and use the gear lube it will come off.
74Nitro is spot on.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Even if it has spun and welded it will come off with the gear lube method.

 

[VX1R]

Sevey.....I'm pretty sure anyone who's been following this thread has experienced some sort of set back at some time working on their own sled. Lot's of good advice offered to you so far.

You've mentioned that you've trashed a couple of clutch pullers already. I'm not sure where you're getting your pullers from or what brand they are, but I've been using this one for years and it's pulled and popped off any Yamaha clutch that I've ever worked on, including SideWinder's: https://epiperformance.com/primary-clutch-puller-pcp-6/

Hopefully you'll get that culprit off sooner than later without busting anything.

 

[74Nitro]

Sevey.....I'm pretty sure anyone who's been following this thread has experienced some sort of set back at some time working on their own sled. Lot's of good advice offered to you so far.

You've mentioned that you've trashed a couple of clutch pullers already. I'm not sure where you're getting your pullers from or what brand they are, but I've been using this one for years and it's pulled and popped off any Yamaha clutch that I've ever worked on, including SideWinder's: https://epiperformance.com/primary-clutch-puller-pcp-6/

Hopefully you'll get that culprit off sooner than later without busting anything.

View attachment 148088

Yes, always good to have a top quality puller.
Sevey, take that crappy puller back to Royal and demand a full refund. Ask if they have a "shop quality puller'. If they don't get one somewhere else.
Too bad you are a couple hours away or I would drive to right to your place and help you out.

 

[Sevey]

Thanks guys. Appreciate all the comments.
One puller was a Yamaha part, the other from Royal. The Royal puller was actually built better than the Yamaha one. I was putting severe force on it. Hard to blame Royal.

It must be bottoming for it to bend and twist like that. Isn't it supposed to bottom out to pull the clutch off the pressure fit ? Keep in mind the power on the impact gun was greater than the first. There were small metal slivers when I backed it out indicating stress on the threads. The end of the puller had the thread marks imbedding into it (where the clutch bolt would thread into). Decided to quit before I really ruin something.

Btw - did let is sit overnight for like 14 hrs with the puller in. In the am put more heat on it and rapped it with hammer and impact - still nothing.

Wont be back at it for awhile. Will try the gear oil and thread tape next time I am back up north. Will keep you posted.
MS

 

[4strokes]

I am sure you had air in the grease. oil would settle nice. when I use slime, I use a long screwdriver to work the air up. any air whatsoever will not work.

 

[Fast]

Anti seize on the taper? I'm not sure i would recommend doing that.

nothing on the shaft anti seize not a good idea,clean it with scoth brite and then brake clean