Primary Clutch stuck to Stub Shaft - Help!

[Sevey]

If your puller is mushroomed inside, it likely has damaged the threads of the stub shaft and may be beyond fixing.
At this point I would consider having someone use a band saw at a machine shop, cut between the primary and pto shaft housing - and cut the shaft off.

Then press the shaft out of the housing. I would check the bearing carefully, as it likely needs to be replaced as well.

Call travis for a new/used shaft and you are in business. I am also impressed you got the pto housing off while the clutch is still on.
MS

 

[hman4]

The Stub shaft assy. From Babbitt’s is only $236.

 

[Sevey]

And BTW - I feel your pain. There is no reason for this to happen. Everyone thought I had '3 heads' this summer when I struggled with mine. There was no reason the clutch had to be on there that tight. When it finally came off, there was small corrosion marks where the shaft and clutch may have fused together.

Spent time polishing both surfaces, and coated it with oil before re-installing. Only wound it up to 95 ft lbs . Factory spec is pretty tight.
MS

 

[Big_Phil]

And BTW - I feel your pain. There is no reason for this to happen. Everyone thought I had '3 heads' this summer when I struggled with mine. There was no reason the clutch had to be on there that tight. When it finally came off, there was small corrosion marks where the shaft and clutch may have fused together.

Spent time polishing both surfaces, and coated it with oil before re-installing. Only wound it up to 95 ft lbs . Factory spec is pretty tight.
MS

I thought oil\anti seize is a big NO on the stub shaft. It will cause the clutch to spin and weld itself to the shaft.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I thought oil\anti seize is a big NO on the stub shaft. It will cause the clutch to spin and weld itself to the shaft.

I assume he oiled the threads, hopefully not the shaft! Anti-seize on threads is best IMO and should always be applied, but taper needs to be clean and dry IMO.

Dan

 

[Sevey]

I thought oil\anti seize is a big NO on the stub shaft. It will cause the clutch to spin and weld itself to the shaft.

You are likely correct, and I wont argue with that point of view. But after wrestling with a stuck clutch. A light film of oil is hardly a crime ensuring it will come off one day.

MS

 

[no1b4me]

I know its a little late for this now ...... but see how STM removes their stubborn primary clutches ..... Just be careful as the video states......

 

[JayM]

The Stub shaft assy. From Babbitt’s is only $236.

Yeah $236usd plus like $40 shipping is $372 CDN plus taxes and duties another ~$50-60. Still cheaper though.

And BTW - I feel your pain. There is no reason for this to happen. Everyone thought I had '3 heads' this summer when I struggled with mine. There was no reason the clutch had to be on there that tight. When it finally came off, there was small corrosion marks where the shaft and clutch may have fused together.

Spent time polishing both surfaces, and coated it with oil before re-installing. Only wound it up to 95 ft lbs . Factory spec is pretty tight.
MS

I polished mine too when I had it off as it has some slight pitting too but put the clutch on dry. That 108ft lbs is a LOT of torque on that,yiunfeel like you are going to snap the bolt.

 

[JayM]

I know its a little late for this now ...... but see how STM removes their stubborn primary clutches ..... Just be careful as the video states......

This is great, once it started not feeling like I should keep going I should have removed the puller but never thought this would happen. Lesson learned.

 

[Sevey]

I couldn't tell for sure - but it looks like he is using a full size puller. I was advised to cut the end of my puller off so there was no contact of puller into the shaft bottom. You were simply creating a hydraulic lock - so no risk of mechanically hurting anything.

I know what you mean JayM. When I was having issues and the threads of the stub shaft were leaving marks on the puller as it was being 'pretzled' inside - I backed off. Had I kept going I would have been in the same boat.

MS

 

[no1b4me]

I couldn't tell for sure - but it looks like he is using a full size puller. I was advised to cut the end of my puller off so there was no contact of puller into the shaft bottom. You were simply creating a hydraulic lock - so no risk of mechanically hurting anything.

I know what you mean JayM. When I was having issues and the threads of the stub shaft were leaving marks on the puller as it was being 'pretzled' inside - I backed off. Had I kept going I would have been in the same boat.

MS

The video does state to remove 1/2" off the puller to ensure that there is no mechanical contact with the shaft .....

 

[JayM]

Picked it up from the dealer, they didn't charge me anything which was good. Brought it by my local machine shop who suggested I drop it at another guys place. They Wil put their heads together and figure it out lol

 

[TrueBlue]

The video does state to remove 1/2" off the puller to ensure that there is no mechanical contact with the shaft .....

3/4'' off the puller if I remember right.

 

[sideshowBob]

Picked it up from the dealer, they didn't charge me anything which was good. Brought it by my local machine shop who suggested I drop it at another guys place. They Wil put their heads together and figure it out lol

Those generic pullers are not as hardened as the clutch and stub shaft...that's why it has bent or mushroomed. I think the machinists will be able to get it out and salvage all your parts.

 

[74Nitro]

Those generic pullers are not as hardened as the clutch and stub shaft...that's why it has bent or mushroomed. I think the machinists will be able to get it out and salvage all your parts.

Yes, and one take away here is always spend a little extra and buy a high quality puller instead of some soft-metal pos.