New Ecu flash for Yamaha Viper/Arctic cats 7000 w/POLL

[sledder454]

One thing I think we can all agree on is we need more snow and a lot more seat time on the sleds with the new flash to see if it is any better.

Is there a learning curve for the ECU after the flash is done?

 

[murdered141]

One thing I think we can all agree on is we need more snow and a lot more seat time on the sleds with the new flash to see if it is any better.

Is there a learning curve for the ECU after the flash is done?

Taking the battery cables off for a few minutes would not be a bad idea.

 

[cannondale27]

Got mine done this afternoon. So far so good. She rips in the field!

 

[Jim R]

I haven't done our 14 7000 only because it hasn't had any issues other than idle rpm search and the extreme cold relay fault.
I was thinking of doing this one if there were no side effects.
I think Ill wait for further better responses. Sure hope this pans out for everyone.
No one should have to live with regrets with this class of sled.

 

[hellflyer]

I'm going to try to get the flash this week! Strange thing is I keep my sled on a skid above my washroom at my shop, put there with a forklift in April. Have an eath x battery and didn't even charge it all summer. Brought it down 3 weeks ago and fired first crack. Now it will never start until second try. Wierd!!
Put 300km on it so far this year.

 

[SRXSRULE2]

Well from a logical point of view one difference between the nytro and the viper was that the battery was less than a foot away from the starter unlike the viper which is near 5 feet away or more with cable. Not a big deal when it’s starting warm but when batteries loose half their capacity in cold weather, that extra 4 feet of cable is a lot of resistance to push amperage through. I’m not sure how much power it pulls but the gauge should shut down in the crank position to save battery voltage. Also don’t need to have the tail light and head lights on. Do you get in your vehicle, turn all the lights, the radio on, fan on wide open and the heated seat before you start it?

 

[cannondale27]

Well from a logical point of view one difference between the nytro and the viper was that the battery was less than a foot away from the starter unlike the viper which is near 5 feet away or more with cable. Not a big deal when it’s starting warm but when batteries loose half their capacity in cold weather, that extra 4 feet of cable is a lot of resistance to push amperage through. I’m not sure how much power it pulls but the gauge should shut down in the crank position to save battery voltage. Also don’t need to have the tail light and head lights on. Do you get in your vehicle, turn all the lights, the radio on, fan on wide open and the heated seat before you start it?

Right on.

 

[cannondale27]

I will say that although I did not question what was done before the tech could flash my sled he had to install a update to the tool used for flashing. Whether or not that update to the tool effects the flash I do not know. But I like to think my flash is special!

 

[Mike P]

Well from a logical point of view one difference between the nytro and the viper was that the battery was less than a foot away from the starter unlike the viper which is near 5 feet away or more with cable. Not a big deal when it’s starting warm but when batteries loose half their capacity in cold weather, that extra 4 feet of cable is a lot of resistance to push amperage through. I’m not sure how much power it pulls but the gauge should shut down in the crank position to save battery voltage. Also don’t need to have the tail light and head lights on. Do you get in your vehicle, turn all the lights, the radio on, fan on wide open and the heated seat before you start it?

I installed an auxiliary 12 vdc supply for my ECU with diode protection and it was amazing how quickly the motor started. Almost seemed to start during the first crank every time. The only problem I had was a code that came up indicating an over voltage condition, more than likely because the power was sill there after I turned the key off. I had not installed a switch for the battery. I had proven to myself that the ECU is more than likely not seeing the voltage required to maintain complete and proper start-up. The starter solenoid is 5' away from the starter motor and the load to the battery is not just the starter but the entire ignition system. When my ECU has a solid 12+ volts DC supplied to it during start-up it is amazing how different it fires. You hear the starer engage and immediately the engine fires. My thoughts are that there is no way any type of flash is going to solve this issue. The Apex has the battery located under the air intake right next to the starter, maybe someone could develop a battery relocation KIT for the Sr viper. Seems like there is some room on the belly pan. A bit tough to get at. Just a thought.

 

[GR8BBQ]

I installed an auxiliary 12 vdc supply for my ECU with diode protection and it was amazing how quickly the motor started. Almost seemed to start during the first crank every time. The only problem I had was a code that came up indicating an over voltage condition, more than likely because the power was sill there after I turned the key off. I had not installed a switch for the battery. I had proven to myself that the ECU is more than likely not seeing the voltage required to maintain complete and proper start-up. The starter solenoid is 5' away from the starter motor and the load to the battery is not just the starter but the entire ignition system. When my ECU has a solid 12+ volts DC supplied to it during start-up it is amazing how different it fires. You hear the starer engage and immediately the engine fires. My thoughts are that there is no way any type of flash is going to solve this issue. The Apex has the battery located under the air intake right next to the starter, maybe someone could develop a battery relocation KIT for the Sr viper. Seems like there is some room on the belly pan. A bit tough to get at. Just a thought.

Hey @grizztracks, this sure seems like a vote for the ECU voltage regulator project you've been working on.... Any updates?

 

[GR8BBQ]

Hey @grizztracks, this sure seems like a vote for the ECU voltage regulator project you've been working on.... Any updates?

 

[sledder454]

I installed an auxiliary 12 vdc supply for my ECU with diode protection and it was amazing how quickly the motor started. Almost seemed to start during the first crank every time. The only problem I had was a code that came up indicating an over voltage condition, more than likely because the power was sill there after I turned the key off. I had not installed a switch for the battery. I had proven to myself that the ECU is more than likely not seeing the voltage required to maintain complete and proper start-up. The starter solenoid is 5' away from the starter motor and the load to the battery is not just the starter but the entire ignition system. When my ECU has a solid 12+ volts DC supplied to it during start-up it is amazing how different it fires. You hear the starer engage and immediately the engine fires. My thoughts are that there is no way any type of flash is going to solve this issue. The Apex has the battery located under the air intake right next to the starter, maybe someone could develop a battery relocation KIT for the Sr viper. Seems like there is some room on the belly pan. A bit tough to get at. Just a thought.

I by fair don’t know much about electrical and hate electrical issues. But wouldnt something that stored power from the battery but only powered the Ecu during startup have the same effect like a capacitor or something. Something that comes into mind is what skidoo has developed in there single shot electric start that stores power enough to crank the motor to start once without a battery. Couldn’t something like that be done to provide a second power source to the Ecu during cranking. Maybe it’s not possible but just a thought.

 

[RAMSOMAIR]

Battery is in same place on the Sidewinder, no starting issues with it. It’s the poor ECU from Cat. Really sad they can’t get this right.

 

[GR8BBQ]

I by fair don’t know much about electrical and hate electrical issues. But wouldnt something that stored power from the battery but only powered the Ecu during startup have the same effect like a capacitor or something. Something that comes into mind is what skidoo has developed in there single shot electric start that stores power enough to crank the motor to start once without a battery. Couldn’t something like that be done to provide a second power source to the Ecu during cranking. Maybe it’s not possible but just a thought.

I'm not meaning to hijack, but take a look at this thread for info on the 12v regulator being proposed to keep a constant 12v to the ECU even when the battery voltage drops during cranking.... https://ty4stroke.com/threads/cold-starting.150939/page-10#post-1435529

 

[grizztracks]

Hey @grizztracks, this sure seems like a vote for the ECU voltage regulator project you've been working on.... Any updates?

My Viper is wired for it and continued testing will be done once conditions here in WNY improve. I will be up in Sudbury Ont in a few weeks so even if we don't get colder temps and more snow here I should be able to test it up there.