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New Ecu flash for Yamaha Viper/Arctic cats 7000 w/POLL

Your experience with the December 2018 Viper ecu update

  • Total voters
    76

sledder454 said:
I by fair don’t know much about electrical and hate electrical issues. But wouldnt something that stored power from the battery but only powered the Ecu during startup have the same effect like a capacitor or something. Something that comes into mind is what skidoo has developed in there single shot electric start that stores power enough to crank the motor to start once without a battery. Couldn’t something like that be done to provide a second power source to the Ecu during cranking. Maybe it’s not possible but just a thought.
Click to expand...
search UCAP on this site, there is some reading about this. I have one on my Viper---no starting issues
 
RAMSOMAIR said:
Battery is in same place on the Sidewinder, no starting issues with it. It’s the poor ECU from Cat. Really sad they can’t get this right.
Click to expand...
The fact (1) that the ECUs are different is the somewhat the cause of the issue. The fact (2), direct swapping out the SW or Nitro ECU into an Sr Viper is not an option.
Adding a storage cell to maintain the required voltage during the cranking of the starter to achieve ignition seems easy. The problem comes, switching to and from the aux source power. The ECU will throw a code if you switch supply at any time. The threshold voltage that is in the spec for the ECU would not seem to be the issue as the manufacturer has it listed very low, around 9.8 volts DC. A capacitor network could do the trick and would be easy to install.
One of the issues with a Cap-based supply is the phantom drain that would occur when sitting idle. Isolating the Cap-based supply from the sleds electrical system when idle would need to be done and reconnected and allowed to recharge just before star-up.
If a sled has bad fuel, out of spec valves, and a host of other issues then they should be the issues. I do not have most of the issues if any posted on this and many other sites. I do on occasion have a problem starting when very cold as most sleds do.
After trying to start once without success, paying attention to the sled and understanding what is happening, before I load up the cylinders with un-burnt, I immediately move to a truck battery with cables. The 1049 will fire and I will not have any more issues for the remainder of the day and night. I have three Apexes usually sitting right next to my Sr Vipers and have only needed to jump the Apexes once during mid-season. I only know what I have observed with my sleds and can only trouble shoot based on my conditions. Sometimes leaving out small facts leading up to a no-start condition can mislead the diagnostic conclusion. Lots to think about, I'd rather ride.
 
Mike P said:
The fact (1) that the ECUs are different is the somewhat the cause of the issue. The fact (2), direct swapping out the SW or Nitro ECU into an Sr Viper is not an option.
Adding a storage cell to maintain the required voltage during the cranking of the starter to achieve ignition seems easy. The problem comes, switching to and from the aux source power. The ECU will throw a code if you switch supply at any time. The threshold voltage that is in the spec for the ECU would not seem to be the issue as the manufacturer has it listed very low, around 9.8 volts DC. A capacitor network could do the trick and would be easy to install.
One of the issues with a Cap-based supply is the phantom drain that would occur when sitting idle. Isolating the Cap-based supply from the sleds electrical system when idle would need to be done and reconnected and allowed to recharge just before star-up.
If a sled has bad fuel, out of spec valves, and a host of other issues then they should be the issues. I do not have most of the issues if any posted on this and many other sites. I do on occasion have a problem starting when very cold as most sleds do.
After trying to start once without success, paying attention to the sled and understanding what is happening, before I load up the cylinders with un-burnt, I immediately move to a truck battery with cables. The 1049 will fire and I will not have any more issues for the remainder of the day and night. I have three Apexes usually sitting right next to my Sr Vipers and have only needed to jump the Apexes once during mid-season. I only know what I have observed with my sleds and can only trouble shoot based on my conditions. Sometimes leaving out small facts leading up to a no-start condition can mislead the diagnostic conclusion. Lots to think about, I'd rather ride.
Click to expand...

Is that 9.8V spec listed somewhere? If so that is the problem right there. I wish my Multimeter had a faster refresh rate but It does have recall and cranking at -10*f usually shows ~9.5V and I assume even lower at colder temps. I'd like to see the inside of the ECM to see how big the caps are too, I'm guessing not enough capacity to smooth out the steep voltage drop during compression strokes. I have an EFI outboard engine that runs into the same issue, if the cranking voltage drops below 9.5V while cranking the ECU "resets" on every compression stroke. Installed a bigger battery in that boat and problem solved. If its going to be Frigid, it gets parked next to the truck as it will start very quickly when boosted off running pickup truck in the morning. Mine has never failed to start on Frigid mornings without a boost but I cringe at taking 2-3 long attempts before it catches.
 
Took mine in yesterday, failed to download. Sled is still at dealer gauges and beepers on now lol. Yamaha rep supposed to be there today
 
Still taking chance but that’s best that can be done without a hard copy. AC can completely reflash entire ecu. Yamaha can’t as far as I know.
 
Had mine done 2 weeks ago, put on 300 miles. Starts on first try when cold & have not had any hard start when hot. Must be lucky I guess
 
Having mine done tomorrow, 2015 LTX-DX haven't done any of other flashes , probably will put 300 miles on Sat . They say have done a bunch at dlr and no problems .. staying positive ... LOL
 
Rode 50 miles to dealer today and he told me he has done 15 flashes and he is not convinced it is a true fix.he said he would do the flash but why not wait a month or so to get some real time feedback.mine starts first or second try so I'm not concerned either way.i left without getting it done and bonus was I got 123 mile ride in today.even managed to get stuck
 
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