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New Sidewinder... Many questions

scooterwj

Pro
Joined
Dec 4, 2008
Messages
154
Location
Hell, Michigan
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2018 SW
I bought an 18' sidewinder XTX 137 in the middle of last winter and managed to get just over 500 miles on it and have many things I'm doing to it before this winter. My main goal is reliability and I'm looking for suggestions of anything that should be done and any comments on the following items I plan on doing.

SLP ice scratchers with BOP ski mounts
Larson Racing products tri-hub upgrade with 4th wheel kit
BOP chaincase protector
BOP intercooler guard
BOP seat screw
BOP clutch quick adjuster
BOP skid plate
Belt guard – OSP
Curve xs ski’s. Not sure what wearbars yet… Any suggestions?
Clutching: thinking about Thunder Products
Exhaust: thinking about turbo dynamics. The quietest one they have.
Chaincase: Is there anything that should be done to make this stronger/more reliable?
Oil tank: Should I re-seal this to prevent oil leaking?
I’ve read on here about crossshafts upgrades… I see “RR” a lot, what does that mean?
Heat exchanger hose protectors – BOP once they are ready.
Check turbo bolts
Replace exhaust bolts and use antiseize
Install dupont hyfax

Might do a mild Turbo Dynamics tune at some point… but not sure yet.

Is there anything else that I’m missing that I should do to maximize reliability?
 

There were great responses to my New Sled thread and I just posted a Larson 4th wheel thread with pics of my kit. Like you I am happy to spend some preventative money this fall to hopefully get a long, fast, and reliable winter. Re tuning, that 300hp tune that Hurricane just posted looks like it might be the way to go, you can always run a lower tune, but it’s nice to have the 300 if you wanted it.
 
NO need for duponts at all on these skids....1450 miles and my sliders look NEW. Never seen such amazing life on any sled ever.

See my build thread in sig below, lots of ideas there to spend money on..LOL


RR models(CAT) 2016 and older came with upper cross shafts that are larger, all info in my build thread.

Dan
 
NO need for duponts at all on these skids....1450 miles and my sliders look NEW. Never seen such amazing life on any sled ever.

See my build thread in sig below, lots of ideas there to spend money on..LOL


RR models(CAT) 2016 and older came with upper cross shafts that are larger, all info in my build thread.

Dan


They don't look new on my LTX Dan. Gotta run the track fiddle string tight to keep the track ratchet at bay, not sure if thats why there worn so bad, doubtful as the wear is pronounced towards the rear 2/3. My Doo's never had hyfax wear like this Cat suspension does. Have Duponts ready to go on mine for the season, but same old Yamaha/Cat junk as Dupont inserts do not go all the way to the back of the hyfax, of course they are short of the back by about 8 inches. WTF?
 
They don't look new on my LTX Dan. Gotta run the track fiddle string tight to keep the track ratchet at bay, not sure if thats why there worn so bad, doubtful as the wear is pronounced towards the rear 2/3. My Doo's never had hyfax wear like this Cat suspension does. Have Duponts ready to go on mine for the season, but same old Yamaha/Cat junk as Dupont inserts do not go all the way to the back of the hyfax, of course they are short of the back by about 8 inches. WTF?
Check out my pics..Mine at 1450, and horrible conditions all winter, did not wear at all...less then 1mm. My doos in similar seasons would be worn to the line...

Mine out back, look new too, also front too, at the bend perfect, even with chunked out inner idlers.

I do run the stealth 4 whl axle, and mine is 129 as you know......I always thought it rolled well when I let off.

And you know I run my tracks ultra tight as always.

Must be diff with 129/137 maybe? I have read a few times others who have same life as me, but this is just incredible, best by far on sliders.

Dan

img_2865-jpeg.141541


img_2866-jpeg.141542
 
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They don't look new on my LTX Dan. Gotta run the track fiddle string tight to keep the track ratchet at bay, not sure if thats why there worn so bad, doubtful as the wear is pronounced towards the rear 2/3. My Doo's never had hyfax wear like this Cat suspension does. Have Duponts ready to go on mine for the season, but same old Yamaha/Cat junk as Dupont inserts do not go all the way to the back of the hyfax, of course they are short of the back by about 8 inches. WTF?
Running our 8.5 stealth big wheel kit will fix the wear in front of the rear wheels. FYI
 
I agree on the SLP version of scratchers. I've tried all, and I get the best result with SLP. You'll need to know, there is a very real chance of cutting them off with ski mounted scratchers. That said, the SLP seem to be less likely to get cut. You'll need to cobble a way to keep them mounted in the up or "off" position. I simply drilled holes in the ski ribs and use bailing wire, zip-ties, and also tried a sheetmetal bracket.

I use Curve skis with Slim Jim 6" or 8"...and also the Curve ice breaker thing in the front. I can't remember the name....the triangle that breaks ruts in the snow. I am certain my set up probably cuts a little top speed....but there is so much there....who cares? I get serious bite in corners, zero darting, and great float. A little push in loose sugary snow, but a really good set up. Provides confidence in what /how the skis react.

Your list is exactly the same as mine, but I went with the J/T 4 wheel kit....see saber's post above. I ended up converting all my skeds with his kits. Highly recommend.

I did NOT change exhaust or tune. There's time for that after warranty runs out or #456 (my sled) no longer is my flagship. Except for skis, it's fine for me stock.

I highly recommend Thunder Products as well. I went with the 911 cover and set up for hard acceleration vs top-end.
BOP or Thunder's belt adjuster for sure. Did my upgrade change much? No, not that I can tell. But you got to realize in '17/'18....there was A LOT of "the sky is falling," posts and rumors about the new clutches. Some had problems, some didn't. Mine were fine, but now I can tune them if that becomes a new hobby, and I ride more confidently that I've "over-killed" my clutches to the best of my ability.

I have NOT needed to change the hyfaxs in 3kmiles.

Absolutely check turbo bolts, and nickel antiseize on the muffler bolts. Monitor the oil tank seal and chain case. At 3k I have a tiny oil leak. I believe at 500 miles, the chain case gets serviced. I had dealer do it, so there would be a record of it. But following Rockerdan's thread....you'll be fine.

I love my PowerMadd hand guards with LEDs! Perfect set up for a guy with bad night vision.

I will do the bop hose protector, but probably not the RR upgrade. I ride it hard....but I also baby her a bit. I think if I could carry her over creek crossings and mud holes....I would! So far, she has repaid the love with incredible performance and has never let me down!


Q. Arrius
 
I agree on the SLP version of scratchers. I've tried all, and I get the best result with SLP. You'll need to know, there is a very real chance of cutting them off with ski mounted scratchers. That said, the SLP seem to be less likely to get cut. You'll need to cobble a way to keep them mounted in the up or "off" position. I simply drilled holes in the ski ribs and use bailing wire, zip-ties, and also tried a sheetmetal bracket.

I use Curve skis with Slim Jim 6" or 8"...and also the Curve ice breaker thing in the front. I can't remember the name....the triangle that breaks ruts in the snow. I am certain my set up probably cuts a little top speed....but there is so much there....who cares? I get serious bite in corners, zero darting, and great float. A little push in loose sugary snow, but a really good set up. Provides confidence in what /how the skis react.

Your list is exactly the same as mine, but I went with the J/T 4 wheel kit....see saber's post above. I ended up converting all my skeds with his kits. Highly recommend.

I did NOT change exhaust or tune. There's time for that after warranty runs out or #456 (my sled) no longer is my flagship. Except for skis, it's fine for me stock.

I highly recommend Thunder Products as well. I went with the 911 cover and set up for hard acceleration vs top-end.
BOP or Thunder's belt adjuster for sure. Did my upgrade change much? No, not that I can tell. But you got to realize in '17/'18....there was A LOT of "the sky is falling," posts and rumors about the new clutches. Some had problems, some didn't. Mine were fine, but now I can tune them if that becomes a new hobby, and I ride more confidently that I've "over-killed" my clutches to the best of my ability.

I have NOT needed to change the hyfaxs in 3kmiles.

Absolutely check turbo bolts, and nickel antiseize on the muffler bolts. Monitor the oil tank seal and chain case. At 3k I have a tiny oil leak. I believe at 500 miles, the chain case gets serviced. I had dealer do it, so there would be a record of it. But following Rockerdan's thread....you'll be fine.

I love my PowerMadd hand guards with LEDs! Perfect set up for a guy with bad night vision.

I will do the bop hose protector, but probably not the RR upgrade. I ride it hard....but I also baby her a bit. I think if I could carry her over creek crossings and mud holes....I would! So far, she has repaid the love with incredible performance and has never let me down!


Q. Arrius
The “triangle thing” is called leading edge and can be 2” or 4”
 
I agree on the SLP version of scratchers. I've tried all, and I get the best result with SLP. You'll need to know, there is a very real chance of cutting them off with ski mounted scratchers. That said, the SLP seem to be less likely to get cut. You'll need to cobble a way to keep them mounted in the up or "off" position. I simply drilled holes in the ski ribs and use bailing wire, zip-ties, and also tried a sheetmetal bracket.

I use Curve skis with Slim Jim 6" or 8"...and also the Curve ice breaker thing in the front. I can't remember the name....the triangle that breaks ruts in the snow. I am certain my set up probably cuts a little top speed....but there is so much there....who cares? I get serious bite in corners, zero darting, and great float. A little push in loose sugary snow, but a really good set up. Provides confidence in what /how the skis react.

Your list is exactly the same as mine, but I went with the J/T 4 wheel kit....see saber's post above. I ended up converting all my skeds with his kits. Highly recommend.

I did NOT change exhaust or tune. There's time for that after warranty runs out or #456 (my sled) no longer is my flagship. Except for skis, it's fine for me stock.

I highly recommend Thunder Products as well. I went with the 911 cover and set up for hard acceleration vs top-end.
BOP or Thunder's belt adjuster for sure. Did my upgrade change much? No, not that I can tell. But you got to realize in '17/'18....there was A LOT of "the sky is falling," posts and rumors about the new clutches. Some had problems, some didn't. Mine were fine, but now I can tune them if that becomes a new hobby, and I ride more confidently that I've "over-killed" my clutches to the best of my ability.

I have NOT needed to change the hyfaxs in 3kmiles.

Absolutely check turbo bolts, and nickel antiseize on the muffler bolts. Monitor the oil tank seal and chain case. At 3k I have a tiny oil leak. I believe at 500 miles, the chain case gets serviced. I had dealer do it, so there would be a record of it. But following Rockerdan's thread....you'll be fine.

I love my PowerMadd hand guards with LEDs! Perfect set up for a guy with bad night vision.

I will do the bop hose protector, but probably not the RR upgrade. I ride it hard....but I also baby her a bit. I think if I could carry her over creek crossings and mud holes....I would! So far, she has repaid the love with incredible performance and has never let me down!


Q. Arrius


Do you recommend mounting the SLP scratchers to the rear suspension instead of the ski's?

Thanks for all the info!
 
No, not at all. Many reports of scratchers bouncing up and scratching stuff. I find that hard to believe....but then again, I don't need doodads dangling off my a-arms. The bop mounts are perfect.

I'm simply saying the SLP version seems lighter and doesn't drag. It seems to scratch better than the "bolt" style. In turn, they have NOT gotten caught under my "Cat Cutter" slim Jims .

Those slim Jims have sliced through several other brand scratchers like butter. Never frayed a single strand....simply cut through cleanly. I don't know why....but looking at the double steel blades, makes me wonder about the carnage they'd do to something in the trail!

Q. Arrius
 


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