New Sidewinder owner - First Impressions/Accessories/Problems/Questions

[KnappAttack]

600 Mile Update
Here is a quick update after about 600 miles
- The shaper bars are not working out. They are fine as far as turning goes - but they dart like crazy - especially on a well used trail. Going to put on a pair of 9" Deuce bars this week and see how that goes.
- I need more preload on the rear springs. When I am carrying gas and the trail is bumpy - the rear end is too soft even at setting #3. I'll order heavier springs or try the BOP cam that adds a 4th position.
- I installed the BOP ROV bypass - but didn't connect it to the valve cover, I made a loop out of it and ran it down under the right footwell. DO NOT DO THIS!!!! I lost more than 1L of oil on a 90 mile run. Travis confirmed you must connect it to the vent cover or you will lose oil. I consider myself lucky here. The oil pressure light did not come on and the coolant temp stayed normal even though I ran a long time down 1L of oil. I changed the oil right after this happened and sled is running fine with 200 miles since this happened.
- I have tightened the chain twice now - both times I could turn the adjuster bolt in about 2.5 turns. Finger tight and 1 turn back both times.
- I have virtually zero belt dust and very minimal mung/oil on the air filter or in the airbox. Clutches are running cool.
- The UNT Linq bracket is great (see pic). Gives me lots of storage options and the small Arctic Cat bag can stay in place all the time.
- Annoying squeak coming from brake area. Sometimes the brake squeaks, sometimes I hear the squeak during a real slow turn. It's almost like the brake drags even when not being used - during a low speed turn.
- Love the power and the engine braking and the handling other than the darting. If the Deuce bars don't work out - I have a pair of Pilot 6.9's on my Backcountry that I can try.

Headed back up to Sturgeon Falls area later this week for another couple hundred miles of fun.

Thats a lot of weight on that tunnel. We have seen them break right off if not braced up. I hope you have braces for the back of that tunnel! It will break and bend.

 

[EWK]

Have you shimmed skis, checked ski alignment or adjusted any suspension setting to try to correct this first?

Back of carbides were shimmed down and they are running flat so not sure what else to do there. I don’t want to reduce ski pressure as the sled is already demonstrating a slight push. I suppose I should check ski alignment tomorrow

 

[EWK]

Thats a lot of weight on that tunnel. We have seen them break right off if not braced up. I hope you have braces for the back of that tunnel! It will break and bend.

Yes. I have the tunnel braces but haven’t installed yet…..only carrying gas occasionally - I’ll wait til the off-season to install those.

 

[Derek Fosbury]

Yes. I have the tunnel braces but haven’t installed yet…..only carrying gas occasionally - I’ll wait til the off-season to install those.

Do you have a part number for the braces? I added the UPT bracket as well, so thinking I should be the braces before I load up the gas caddy

 

[Turboflash]

600 Mile Update
Here is a quick update after about 600 miles
- The shaper bars are not working out. They are fine as far as turning goes - but they dart like crazy - especially on a well used trail. Going to put on a pair of 9" Deuce bars this week and see how that goes.
- I need more preload on the rear springs. When I am carrying gas and the trail is bumpy - the rear end is too soft even at setting #3. I'll order heavier springs or try the BOP cam that adds a 4th position.
- I installed the BOP ROV bypass - but didn't connect it to the valve cover, I made a loop out of it and ran it down under the right footwell. DO NOT DO THIS!!!! I lost more than 1L of oil on a 90 mile run. Travis confirmed you must connect it to the vent cover or you will lose oil. I consider myself lucky here. The oil pressure light did not come on and the coolant temp stayed normal even though I ran a long time down 1L of oil. I changed the oil right after this happened and sled is running fine with 200 miles since this happened.
- I have tightened the chain twice now - both times I could turn the adjuster bolt in about 2.5 turns. Finger tight and 1 turn back both times.
- I have virtually zero belt dust and very minimal mung/oil on the air filter or in the airbox. Clutches are running cool.
- The UNT Linq bracket is great (see pic). Gives me lots of storage options and the small Arctic Cat bag can stay in place all the time.
- Annoying squeak coming from brake area. Sometimes the brake squeaks, sometimes I hear the squeak during a real slow turn. It's almost like the brake drags even when not being used - during a low speed turn.
- Love the power and the engine braking and the handling other than the darting. If the Deuce bars don't work out - I have a pair of Pilot 6.9's on my Backcountry that I can try.

Headed back up to Sturgeon Falls area later this week for another couple hundred miles of fun.

Does not the manual state to finger tighten the chain tensioner bolt and then back off 1-1/2 turns? 1 turn might be too tight?

 

[EWK]

Do you have a part number for the braces? I added the UPT bracket as well, so thinking I should be the braces before I load up the gas caddy

They are available from Barn of Parts. See link below.

Online Store

Online Store

www.barnofparts.com

 

[EWK]

Does not the manual state to finger tighten the chain tensioner bolt and then back off 1-1/2 turns? 1 turn might be too tight?

Yes - the manual says 1.5 turns out however I've read lots of posts on here where guys are saying 1 turn is enough

 

[THEPASMAN]

Do you have a part number for the braces? I added the UPT bracket as well, so thinking I should be the braces before I load up the gas caddy


The BOP braces are very good. I went with a BDX rear bumper in conjunction with the internal braces there a bit pricey but look real good painted to match sled and go to the next level in tunnel support

On my MTX I was able to bring a pretty bent tunnel back into shape with the BOP braces in the inside and the BDX on the outside and slowly suck it together. Turned out great I did my XTX before it bent

 

[Fleecer]

Does not the manual state to finger tighten the chain tensioner bolt and then back off 1-1/2 turns? 1 turn might be too tight?

TF....I think the spec may be subjective. Everytime I adjust the chain, I do it with the cover off, so I can visually inspect the chain tension by eye.

In doing so, I'm always 1 turn out from finger tight. This crushes my ego and insults me to my core, as I guess it means I have weak fingers??? Has the feebleness of old age arrived?? I feel like such a loser......does anyone make an automatic tensioner do I don't keep getting insulted??? Lol

 

[earthling]

TF....I think the spec may be subjective. Everytime I adjust the chain, I do it with the cover off, so I can visually inspect the chain tension by eye.

In doing so, I'm always 1 turn out from finger tight. This crushes my ego and insults me to my core, as I guess it means I have weak fingers??? Has the feebleness of old age arrived?? I feel like such a loser......does anyone make an automatic tensioner do I don't keep getting insulted??? Lol

LOL its not you but you do have to keep in mind what that bolt is supposed to do (IOW an auto tensioner would work but at some cost)

TLDR: Its not subjective. 1.5 turns is setting the chain slack or sag.

A tensioner would be adjusted by moving the bolt inward to keep the chain under (near) fixed tension as it stretches, and as the chain stretches the angle in the chain increases around the tensioner/rider/cam/wheel creating loss of efficiency as the chain has to traverse more cumulative angles. But that is the price you pay when you need absolute control of the gear alignment as you would in a cam chain. The cat chain case arm acts like a damper (all tensioners do) but is designed to allow the chain to continue to move (more) freely while maintaining the desired chain sag (freedom to move) under load. It is primarily there to preset the limit of oscillation of the chain under changing load conditions. When you put it in finger tight and back out 1.5 turns you are in effect setting chain sag and the limits of oscillation. Too tight is too much friction, too loose is too much oscillation.

Sorry @Fleecer I didn't understand what you wrote initially. I get now that you were setting chain sag by eye and for you that is backing out the bolt less than someone else might.

 

[STAIN]

TF....I think the spec may be subjective. Everytime I adjust the chain, I do it with the cover off, so I can visually inspect the chain tension by eye.

In doing so, I'm always 1 turn out from finger tight. This crushes my ego and insults me to my core, as I guess it means I have weak fingers??? Has the feebleness of old age arrived?? I feel like such a loser......does anyone make an automatic tensioner do I don't keep getting insulted??? Lol

Cat used a auto tensioner in the 1100's. I think you could use that tensioner in the current case.
You may need to update the foot for better durability.
I have thought about this route also.

 

[Turboflash]

TF....I think the spec may be subjective. Everytime I adjust the chain, I do it with the cover off, so I can visually inspect the chain tension by eye.

In doing so, I'm always 1 turn out from finger tight. This crushes my ego and insults me to my core, as I guess it means I have weak fingers??? Has the feebleness of old age arrived?? I feel like such a loser......does anyone make an automatic tensioner do I don't keep getting insulted??? Lol

LOL. Yeah, I agree it's a very subjective unscientific way to set chain. I agree with you about how tight is finger tight. My nephew says he uses 1-1/2 turns but he has gorilla fingers that gets chain really tight with his fingers. With my aging fingers, I'd use probably closer to 1.
I check chain frequently for stretch which is easy with my Tech2 muffler body size being small.

 

[Bigblue1]

600 Mile Update
Here is a quick update after about 600 miles
- The shaper bars are not working out. They are fine as far as turning goes - but they dart like crazy - especially on a well used trail. Going to put on a pair of 9" Deuce bars this week and see how that goes.
- I need more preload on the rear springs. When I am carrying gas and the trail is bumpy - the rear end is too soft even at setting #3. I'll order heavier springs or try the BOP cam that adds a 4th position.
- I installed the BOP ROV bypass - but didn't connect it to the valve cover, I made a loop out of it and ran it down under the right footwell. DO NOT DO THIS!!!! I lost more than 1L of oil on a 90 mile run. Travis confirmed you must connect it to the vent cover or you will lose oil. I consider myself lucky here. The oil pressure light did not come on and the coolant temp stayed normal even though I ran a long time down 1L of oil. I changed the oil right after this happened and sled is running fine with 200 miles since this happened.
- I have tightened the chain twice now - both times I could turn the adjuster bolt in about 2.5 turns. Finger tight and 1 turn back both times.
- I have virtually zero belt dust and very minimal mung/oil on the air filter or in the airbox. Clutches are running cool.
- The UNT Linq bracket is great (see pic). Gives me lots of storage options and the small Arctic Cat bag can stay in place all the time.
- Annoying squeak coming from brake area. Sometimes the brake squeaks, sometimes I hear the squeak during a real slow turn. It's almost like the brake drags even when not being used - during a low speed turn.
- Love the power and the engine braking and the handling other than the darting. If the Deuce bars don't work out - I have a pair of Pilot 6.9's on my Backcountry that I can try.

Headed back up to Sturgeon Falls area later this week for another couple hundred miles of fun.

I find shaper bars to be great. Check tow out. There is a sweet spot and center shock adjustment in very small increments. I get no darting on a 129" and steer relatively easy with C&As.

 

[EWK]

I find shaper bars to be great. Check tow out. There is a sweet spot and center shock adjustment in very small increments. I get no darting on a 129" and steer relatively easy with C&As.

Thanks for the feedback. I checked my toe out and it was just under 1/4” so right where it should be. I just removed the 5.0 shim from the rear position and replaced with the 7.5 and reinstalled the shapers. I will see how that works over the next 2 days and then move on to the centre shock.

 

[SledFreak]

600 Mile Update
Here is a quick update after about 600 miles
- The shaper bars are not working out. They are fine as far as turning goes - but they dart like crazy - especially on a well used trail. Going to put on a pair of 9" Deuce bars this week and see how that goes.
- I need more preload on the rear springs. When I am carrying gas and the trail is bumpy - the rear end is too soft even at setting #3. I'll order heavier springs or try the BOP cam that adds a 4th position.
- I installed the BOP ROV bypass - but didn't connect it to the valve cover, I made a loop out of it and ran it down under the right footwell. DO NOT DO THIS!!!! I lost more than 1L of oil on a 90 mile run. Travis confirmed you must connect it to the vent cover or you will lose oil. I consider myself lucky here. The oil pressure light did not come on and the coolant temp stayed normal even though I ran a long time down 1L of oil. I changed the oil right after this happened and sled is running fine with 200 miles since this happened.
- I have tightened the chain twice now - both times I could turn the adjuster bolt in about 2.5 turns. Finger tight and 1 turn back both times.
- I have virtually zero belt dust and very minimal mung/oil on the air filter or in the airbox. Clutches are running cool.
- The UNT Linq bracket is great (see pic). Gives me lots of storage options and the small Arctic Cat bag can stay in place all the time.
- Annoying squeak coming from brake area. Sometimes the brake squeaks, sometimes I hear the squeak during a real slow turn. It's almost like the brake drags even when not being used - during a low speed turn.
- Love the power and the engine braking and the handling other than the darting. If the Deuce bars don't work out - I have a pair of Pilot 6.9's on my Backcountry that I can try.

Headed back up to Sturgeon Falls area later this week for another couple hundred miles of fun.

Get rid of the Yamaha skids and put on a set of Cat skis and the darting will be gone or damn close to it. I had 7.5" shaper bars on my TCAT, and I could drive 1 hand no problem anywhere. I also shimmed them a 1/4". but I am not sure I even needed too.