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New Stryke Ski Review

never used the curve rubbers as they always made them run tip down on my rx. i put 3/8" of rubber for the old apex/rx/rs/phazer rubbers to work. only tried doolys once and took them off as they kept catching rocks/stole too much power on the sled. came with the skis.
 

You probably get a better wear pattern by going the extra step and doing that. I got 2 seasons out of my first set of SJ’s.
Second season had a lot of asphalt bridge crossing (200 yds) one way, they wore down to nothing on the entire SJ length, but I do remember checking them out after the first season and they did not show uneven wear.

But then again, I put a set of Curves with 6” SJs on right away. You ever try and put a set of those curve rubbers on?

They are so tight that no shimming under those would be possible, whereas I had to boil those rubbers and still struggled to get the ski bolt through!

Got rid of those Curve rubbers last season and added a set of 4” SJ and reused my stock rubbers. So I could try that shimming idea. Shall take a look at how they are wearing tomorrow and if they are wearing the front or rear of the SJ, and not even, I shall do it. There is plenty of room for shims with the stock rubbers. So thanks for mentioning your method, I do appreciate that.

I know, I ramble on a bit!

SJ = Woodys Slim Jim.
Not sure what you mean by not being able to shim curve skis but I have mine shimmed and it makes a world of difference. Not easy but can be done
 
These are bit different stock carbides
Thanks for the picture as I was curious. To bad its not as deep as a snowtracker or my stealth carbide which I prefer. But I can see how these can work very good for the ones who got kick out of their sled with snowtrackers jamming in something.
 
Motorhead, you are right about there being no room for a shim on the Curves but I bought mine from Travis at BarnOfParts where you use the stock rubbers and not the Curves. However, he adds a plate to where the rubber sits (sits underneath the two ski bolt bushings which also holds the plate in place) to compensate for the difference so with the plate and using stock rubbers, there is no room as well. With you running without that plate completely and only adding shims, I'd be curious if that would pose any issues.

Reason I went with stock rubbers with curve skis and also went down to 4” from 6” on my SJs, was very hard steering.

Read on here from someone who had similar problems and got rid of his curve rubbers for easier steering.

Either going down to 4” SJs, or a combination of stock rubbers and 4” SJs, made my hard sled steering much better.

But yes those stock rubbers on curve skis are quite loose, but all works so well that way.

Should I shim or just go back to boiling my curve rubbers and trying them with the 4” SJs, just to see if. Decision, Decisions

As of right now, the SJs look very well balanced on my garage cement floor, and very little visible, but even wear after last season rides.

But isn’t this why you would shim? If I remember correctly, with my 97 SX steel skis, we use to try and put more ski front pressure with shims to decrease darting, but then uneven wear of carbides occurred. Am I correct??

What is being said about shimming the new Stryker skis, I mean, which one are you after??
 
Reason I went with stock rubbers with curve skis and also went down to 4” from 6” on my SJs, was very hard steering.

Read on here from someone who had similar problems and got rid of his curve rubbers for easier steering.

Either going down to 4” SJs, or a combination of stock rubbers and 4” SJs, made my hard sled steering much better.

But yes those stock rubbers on curve skis are quite loose, but all works so well that way.

Should I shim or just go back to boiling my curve rubbers and trying them with the 4” SJs, just to see if. Decision, Decisions

As of right now, the SJs look very well balanced on my garage cement floor, and very little visible, but even wear after last season rides.

But isn’t this why you would shim? If I remember correctly, with my 97 SX steel skis, we use to try and put more ski front pressure with shims to decrease darting, but then uneven wear of carbides occurred. Am I correct??

What is being said about shimming the new Stryker skis, I mean, which one are you after??
Motorhead, I also have the curve skis and did post how hard and difference in stock rubber to curve rubber was. My solution, I finally listened to my buddy who rides strictly in Canada and puts thousands of miles on his sled every year, SNOTRACKERS....I even went back to the Curve rubbers and when these wear out I'm going to try the aggressive snotrackers. I'm using semi's now and still like how sled handles. He has the 9000 and cant tell any difference in handling between the two. My .02 cents...
 
My dealer put snowtrackers on my 2021 SW LTX GT. same pattern as the cat ski confirmed. I will not ride a sled without trackers. stock shim.
 


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