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NLVMAX'S Nytro SE Garage: Mod Update


GYamRDR said:
Just a quick question ngk says the cr10ek is 2mm longer that the stock plug how did you change this for the right depth, spacers ????

Far as I know there are no issues or concerns running these plugs. No spacers needed. Haven't heard of that before.
My Vector buddy runs them and he finds an improvement in his sled firing up initally over stock plugs.
I am running them now and haven't had problems. Only had them in for 60 km's and can't tell any difference.


Love the Excell Exhaust System.

Only got to put on 60 clicks last night but really happy with this system. Snow conditions were marginal but did get to test it out. All I say say is "awesome". She pulls even harder now.

On a couple straight aways I hit 142 fast and had to slow down for the trail didn't go on. I noticed a big difference getting up to this speed from stock. It happens faster. Can't wait til motor gets broke in.

There was a 800Ho Rev, Rage, Vector and mine. Can't give a fair comparson-only had a short rip on the 800 in a field. Initial thoughts were the 800 was strong but had less torque than mine. Once we get enough snow we can line them up. Hmmm, wonder what my chances are? Both have 1.5 Intense tracks. I did ratchet his once. Rage said the nytro was easy to turn and very snappy.
Recommend this system, the sound is sweet! Oh, that speed was in Km's. LOL.

We also put a Excell header on my buddies Vector. Bit more to the install compared to the Nytro. Sounds sweet when on the gas and noticable gains in power. He also has clutching from Ulmer and she pulls harder now with this combination. ;)!
 
what does changing the rivet do, more rpm? top end? have system hope to put it on this weekend do you have to make the clutch change?
 
280chopper said:
what does changing the rivet do, more rpm? top end? have system hope to put it on this weekend do you have to make the clutch change?

With the HI Flow Header you'll gain 400 RPM's. This is why the 3.6 g weights are installed in the tip. Aaron told me Rpm's should be around 9000. Extra weight will compensate for over reving and give you hard midrange pull and more top speed.
 
NLVMAX said:
280chopper said:
what does changing the rivet do, more rpm? top end? have system hope to put it on this weekend do you have to make the clutch change?

With the HI Flow Header you'll gain 400 RPM's. This is why the 3.6 g weights are installed in the tip. Aaron told me Rpm's should be around 9000. Extra weight will compensate for over reving and give you hard midrange pull and more top speed.
NLV, I put my rivits in after I had 125 mi. on the exhaust (didn't have time when exhaust was installed). After installing them I would see 8750 to 8800 r's tops. Now with 400 miles on it will rev to 9000. My point being is these thing just continue to make power, and that is GOOD. ULMER's getting some business soon (stage 1 clutching). ;)!
 
Good to hear you're enjoying it. That is where you want to be with this exhaust is around 9000.
You might be go with Stage 1? What are the advantages. I'm not sure what I'm going with yet. I don't want to lose any bottom end that's for sure.
 
Marginal Snow Wheels Install

This is what I originally done... But wasn't 100% satisfied. The small wheels just won't last in the rear. Maybe jumped ship on it to quick.

IMG_3855.jpg


Now I decided to go this route.

Here are the part #'s

22-wheel part no.8ET-47310-00
23-bracket part no.8ES-47419-10
27-washer part no.90201-10038
28-bolt part no.95812-10080
29-washer part no.90214-10003
32-nut part no. 95602-10200

IMG_4799.jpg


IMG_4802.jpg

Followed lead on this what a couple TY members done. Thanks guys.
I still plan to use the small billet wheels up front. I have two sets. I just wasn't happy with the mount and how it pushed the track off so much. Still looking for the right set up for up front. For now I will use the small black wheels from Yammy.
 
Max I know this is hard since you are in Newfoundland but what did that setup cost you roughly if you dont mind me asking? Also I cant remember but did you put that new kit in the same holes that you had the other wheels in? What I am getting at is, if you bought the yamaha setup first would have to drill holes or would they bolt right on? Thanks and the sled looks awesome, I wish I had a sliver of your aftermarket budget!
 
They went in stock holes so I do have one extra hole on either side I really didn't have to drill.
Well the set up just installed was almost 200 which includes the two sm billet wheels(65 each) and all hardware. Two large wheels are 80 each. The small yammy wheels up front are sold as a kit for 70.
 
Regarding your most forward outer idler wheel, have you checked for possible interference problems with the rear spring...? The tip of the rear spring moves forward when the rear suspension is compressed. Last season I almost mounted a set of extra wheels just outside the stock inner ones, but after compressing the suspension checking for interference I had to take them off (the tip of the rear spring smashed straight into the bracket at about 3/4 of the stroke...). Anyway, your most forward wheel seems to be mounted a bit further forward than this, but it is always good to check for interference problems...
 
NLVMAX said:
They went in stock holes so I do have one extra hole on either side I really didn't have to drill.
Well the set up just installed was almost 200 which includes the two sm billet wheels(65 each) and all hardware. Two large wheels are 80 each. The small yammy wheels up front are sold as a kit for 70.

Thanks so you could probably buy everything the same and get two mid-size stock yamaha wheels instead of the billet's and save some coin correct?
 
Alatalo said:
Regarding your most forward outer idler wheel, have you checked for possible interference problems with the rear spring...? The tip of the rear spring moves forward when the rear suspension is compressed. Last season I almost mounted a set of extra wheels just outside the stock inner ones, but after compressing the suspension checking for interference I had to take them off (the tip of the rear spring smashed straight into the bracket at about 3/4 of the stroke...). Anyway, your most forward wheel seems to be mounted a bit further forward than this, but it is always good to check for interference problems...

This is good advise.
 
rpm's

NLVMAX said:
Good to hear you're enjoying it. That is where you want to be with this exhaust is around 9000.
You might be go with Stage 1? What are the advantages. I'm not sure what I'm going with yet. I don't want to lose any bottom end that's for sure.
Every Dyno I've seen makes peek power at apx. 8800 regardless of exhaust, airbox, etc.
 


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