**Official Clutch Rattle Removal Thread w/ Pics**

[Pries]

Instead of removing the stub shaft with a slide hammer type of action (this can damage the balls in the bearings), I made a puller out of a piece of half inch thick steel plate that is about 7" long and about 3" wide. I drilled a hole in the center big enough for the clutch bolt to pass through. So once you have the 4x 10mm bearing retainer bolts out and the 2x 12mm case bolts on either side of the bearing retainer loosened, I screwed the bolt with the plate onto the stub shaft, then cut a couple pieces of wood about 5 5/8" long (equal lengths) and placed them under either side of the bearing retainer against the flat spots on crankcase where the halves join. I then simply started to screw in the clutch bolt which pulled the stub shaft with bearing retainer straight out of the case. I also found that the bearing was a little rough. This would be a good time to replace the 6307RU bearing or regrease it (don't use too much grease though as it will cause the bearing to heat up and fail)

 

[Yves Tranzeat]

Hello. I can not see the photo even when I am logged in . What photo viewer shall I use ? Thanks

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

 

[wowchad]

X2 ^
I'll most likely swap mine out for our primary, but I sure was interested to see this procedure explained through pictures. It's certainly worth a shot for the minimal expense!

 

[Mooseman]

The pics are likely deleted from the host (like PhotoBucket) or they were lost during one of the software upgrades on the site.

 

[Ronaldsj]

Have someone try 3M Scotch Weld P490?

 

[radianguy]

I am going to replace the bearing on the stub shaft before this riding season starts.
I just have one question, are you guys only replacing the one bearing and seal? Or both bearings?
I would think best to change both bearings if you're in there?
Thoughts?

 

[Sevey]

The 'Shaft Assembly' contains the stub that the clutch fastens to only has one (sealed) bearing.
Once the clutch it off, remove the 4 bolts holding the housing onto the engine block, the entire assembly slides off the main drive shaft (mine needed some coaxing with a slide hammer mind you.)
Did mine last summer, so I know all the do's and dont's.
You will need a shop press and some washers, possible a pipe (to go around the shaft) and some plates to get everything pressed out.
Sometimes that bearing is on back order so be sure to get a hold of Yamaha asap.
Don't be quick to substitute another bearing. I found other companies don't build it to the spec that Yamaha (koyo) does - rpm, heat etc.
MS

 

[pdiddy]

I'm in the camp that assumes Yamaha could and would fix this if they weren't worried about whatever the trade-off is. Too bad they won't speak up about this. In the meantime, don't be the first guy to start your 3'holer in a group!

 

[PMaine]

I just completed this on my sled. The only thing that concerns me is what if the stub shaft bearing ever needs to be replaced? This mod effectively glues the stub shaft to the crank. Applying heat would be very difficult.

 

[Beenba]

I know this is a long shot, but would you still have photos of removing the actual bearing assembly by chance; the one's deleted in the very first post?

Attached

 

[yamahamm]

Has anyone made up a fix that gets rid of the clutch rattle for good? i am starting to hate my nytro just because of the rattle Would just love to start a new season without the noise

 

[Mk1000]

The only real fix is to sell it to someone who doesn't care about the rattle noise. Sorry, and good luck!

 

[R00STER]

It looks like Hurricane has come up with a solution for the rattle on the Sidewinders (Sidewinder trail forum). All we need is for someone to contact Dave at Hurricane and ask him nicely to build a new stub shaft that is a direct replacement for the Nytro as well.

 

[maim]

there is a a thread in the viper forumn about the fix for the sidewinder bolting up with a few mods. viper motor is pretty much the same as the nitro is it not?

 

[R00STER]

Ouch, I just looked at the grocery list of parts in order to make the stub fit a Nytro/Viper. I will be more then happy to listen to the rattle can vs dropping over a grand Cdn on a fix (after totalling all of the crossover parts I would need).
Again, maybe Dave will fabricate a stub shaft specifically for the Nytro/Viper.