Once upon a time, I had a belt blower, then Mike Knapp and Clutchmaster did some magic

[Macheater]

Isn't it funny how after riding four-stroke for so long you just can't stand the two-stroke smell anymore!

Well, like many of you I've been riding sleds now for 3+ decades. And for me, firing up an old school, smoke belching 2-stroke in the Fall meant re-living fond memories of past seasons, and hopes of new thrills for the coming season. The smell would always linger for several days, and every time I would walk out into the garage, all I could think about is the coming season. It always did (and still does) get me pumped. Just a thought. Sorry for the hi-jack.

 

[ClutchMaster]

That is what you are shooting for. Matching shift rates of both clutches. You dont want one fighting the other====heat

Ok this is kinda misleading. Actually clutches are supposed to fight each other, without it there would be no belt tension.
The primary provides the opening force and the secondary provides the resistance.
If your belt is slipping your not providing enough resistance from the secondary or enough shifting force from the primary.
Helix angle in conjunction with spring force dictates opening pressure of the secondary. Weights and spring force in the primary dictates amount of force primary will provide to open the secondary.
Not having enough fighting force on either side will cause slipping.
On the other hand to much resistance can cause belt scrub, which causes heat and inefficient operation. So it’s really a balancing act of how much force is needed to hold the belt from slipping, without holding it to tightly.
M2C

The best setup will always use the least amount of belt squeeze and prevent slipping.

You have to determine if your heat/wear is coming from to much or to little belt tension. Then move forward from there.

 

[Mototown]

What the arctic cat part number for the shims between the sheaves to adjust belt height?
Never I figured out the right size to part #

 

[jonlafon1]

I'm running the hurricane 270R and 290R. 45/33 which has had me chasing my tail a bit, but I've got it dialed in pretty good with the Dalton black/ lime and the TP orange up front.

Where you at degrees on the TP orange? 3/2 ? 3/3

 

[jonlafon1]

72 grams HH, Evo stage 4 . What tune are you running?

Was running ECO for 6 k just upgraded to powertrail. Still same weight on HH. NO way I can run that kind of weight.

 

[jonlafon1]

Okay got 50 in with the TP orange @ 3/1. Not enough IMO I could feel belt slipping. Also have black marks on secondary sheaves. . Going 3/2 or back to stocker @6/1. Knapp any chance you could say what the stocker is @ 6/1. Damn that spring. It has been the best for my setup.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Where you at degrees on the TP orange? 3/2 ? 3/3

He’s running TP orange primary spring, Dalton black/lime secondary spring.

 

[Shagnos]

Was running ECO for 6 k just upgraded to powertrail. Still same weight on HH. NO way I can run that kind of weight.

I thought powertrail and Stage4 were pretty similar. I'm still at 9100-9200. TP orange wrapped 50 with 35 helix

 

[ClutchMaster]

I thought powertrail and Stage4 were pretty similar. I'm still at 9100-9200. TP orange wrapped 50 with 35 helix

You have a shallower helix and more power.

 

[STAIN]

So it’s really a balancing act of how much force is needed to hold the belt from slipping, without holding it to tightly.
M2C

100% agree with this.
I guess what I meant was that the clutches have to work together.

 

[jonlafon1]

He’s running TP orange primary spring, Dalton black/lime secondary spring.

My bad. Read it wrong

 

[jonlafon1]

I thought powertrail and Stage4 were pretty similar. I'm still at 9100-9200. TP orange wrapped 50 with 35 helix

What hp is that? The helix is making a big difference Imo.

 

[Shagnos]

What hp is that? The helix is making a big difference Imo.

Supposed to be 58 over stock so whatever that is.....just replaced my BOV with turbosmart and picked up 400 rpm so my stock one must have been leaking. Added 2grams to the tip and it loved it.

I'm running completely stock helix

 

[fatchance]

Where you at degrees on the TP orange? 3/2 ? 3/3

TP Orange in the primary. Dalton Black/Lime at 9-1 in the secondary.


Oh...i just noticed.....you got me covered Clutchmaster!

 

[snowbeast]

I am going on @700 miles on my Cat green spring running a 270 tune. Wrapped at 0-1. Runs great. Just for shits and giggles I unwrapped the spring and set it at 9-1 ---which is lighter wrap due to positions of spring tangs--- ( Thanks Knapp) Went for a 100 miles ride and the sled did not respond anywhere near as well as the 0-1 wrap. When I got back to the trailer I immediately wrapped the spring back to 0-1. Went back out next day for a 135 miles ride and the responsiveness and drive were back.
I started this year trying to use a steeper helix and the softest springs and I could for efficiency and quick shifting. It worked last year with the stock settings and a 225 tune. I am now convinced that the soft springs just wont work @270 hp---I have tried and failed. I am not a lake racer by any means and almost all my trail riding consists of corner to corner blasts. The shallower helix and stiffer springs are working best for me. And over a 1000 miles on a XS825 belt with no dust.
I might get a Dalton white to replace my Cat green just because I believe it will be a better quality spring and I don't know the age of the green spring.

What helix are you now using with cat green at 0-1?