Pilot 6.9 ski's installed

[Threeman03]

Very good...I believe this is something we should all do ultimately. I will pop mine off and try to take more pics when I do the shim in rear center. Possibly I will mess with DOO rubbers to see if they are not too much work without a band saw or similar to cut them to match.

So are we suppose to shim the rear now ?

 

[Threeman03]

Ar
Are we suppose to shim rear now?

 

[XP123]

Ar

Are we suppose to shim rear now?

Only if you feel they need to be. Do they dart or are your carbides wearing mostly in the front? What very few mention is you can over shim the rear. I've been on sleds that steered very hard because they had too much shim in the rear of the spindle.

 

[Threeman03]

Only if you feel they need to be. Do they dart or are your carbides wearing mostly in the front? What very few mention is you can over shim the rear. I've been on sleds that steered very hard because they had too much shim in the rear of the spindle.

No. I’m
Getting ready to install them for first time tonight don’t want to do it twice . Was wondering if I need to put something in Rear holes so rubbers cant sink down.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

No. I’m
Getting ready to install them for first time tonight don’t want to do it twice . Was wondering if I need to put something in Rear holes so rubbers cant sink down.

If you can hold off another day, I have more info and will post pics and edit the OP, so we all get these right.

Had a very long conversation with Brent(PowderFalcon) on phone. I feel the Winder rubbers are quite soft compared to DOO. And with the design of the pilot seat pocket, I want to shim them up more in rear center. What seems to happen is over time, the rubbers push down into the odd shaped pocket(its not flat like YAM ski pocket) and this combined with softer rubber, overtime the rubbers tend to sack into the pocket. A Shim like I posted that Scott Bergstrom makes should help to create a flat floor for the rubber to sit on.(But thicker then Scotts)

I have been quite busy with other things up here, but today I got a few hrs finally and tore into my sled to fix the coolant leak. I feel like I want to do a write-up on this coolant leak fix. Its quite involved to get to the area,but easy to do. Pics will help others, as it seems to me many have loose clamps from the cat factory. Grrrr. Something so simple but takes quite abit of time to dig down to get to. Glad that is done and she's back together.

So tomorrow is the last mild-ish day before a brutal cold week next week, so I want to pull my skis off and do the shims , and will take pics and EDIT the OP in this thread, as well as adding the info here to the end.

Dan

 

[PowderFalcon]

As Dan said, the rubber sinks down into the pilot ski. When I took my skis off, I was surprised how much they did. It pretty much makes the two ridges used as a shim a moot point.
By making a shim out of 1/4” puck board, it gives the rubber a flat base to sit on and therefore should provide some rigidity. After installing, I put my sled flat on the garage floor. The carbides look to sit flat. I will be keeping a close eye on this over the first few rides. Even with the shims, they skis were easy to reinstall. This makes me think I can add more shim fairly easily if needed.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Brent, thanks.

I am going to dig in tomorrow. This is good work, but I want to really decide what thickness will work best. 1/4" may do the trick But I will experiment with some 3/8" material too, and decide. We will need to watch these and see how things wear with miles and what thickness shim we use.

The bottom of our rubbers, have those two outer ledges, so this makes the hollow hole underneath even worse. I would like to fill that void evenly, in addition to the void down into the ski.

Ultimately, the BRP rubber would be the best solution, as its designed to fit into the pocket precisely, and is much harder rubber. I will also look at this tomorrow as I should have some old BRP rubbers around.

Dan

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Good example of soft stock Winder rubber on my pilot ski, only 9 miles on my sled to date so like new. And you can already see how the rubber sinks into the deep center pocket void of pilot ski. Will post lots more pics of this same angle when corrected.

For guys running them, it may take some time to see any wear, and some guys with diff carbides may see more even wear then Brent did. OCD brain cant allow this, so will get this fixed up ASAP Gang.

Dan

 

[PowderFalcon]

The 1/4” piece I made seems to leave a nice flat surface in the ski for the rubber to sit on. I hear what you are saying to span between the rubber ledges. Maybe another piece in addition to span between the ledges would be good to try as well.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

The 1/4” piece I made seems to leave a nice flat surface in the ski for the rubber to sit on. I hear what you are saying to span between the rubber ledges. Maybe another piece in addition to span between the ledges would be good to try as well.

As you run yours Brent, check them often so we can get some feedback on best thickness...I still would rather see BRP rubbers used, but its much more work to get those to seat to spindle, they are firm.

Dan

 

[PowderFalcon]

As you run yours Brent, check them often so we can get some feedback on best thickness...I still would rather see BRP rubbers used, but its much more work to get those to seat to spindle, they are firm.

Dan

Will do buddy!

 

[Threeman03]

If you can hold off another day, I have more info and will post pics and edit the OP, so we all get these right.

Had a very long conversation with Brent(PowderFalcon) on phone. I feel the Winder rubbers are quite soft compared to DOO. And with the design of the pilot seat pocket, I want to shim them up more in rear center. What seems to happen is over time, the rubbers push down into the odd shaped pocket(its not flat like YAM ski pocket) and this combined with softer rubber, overtime the rubbers tend to sack into the pocket. A Shim like I posted that Scott Bergstrom makes should help to create a flat floor for the rubber to sit on.(But thicker then Scotts)

I have been quite busy with other things up here, but today I got a few hrs finally and tore into my sled to fix the coolant leak. I feel like I want to do a write-up on this coolant leak fix. Its quite involved to get to the area,but easy to do. Pics will help others, as it seems to me many have loose clamps from the cat factory. Grrrr. Something so simple but takes quite abit of time to dig down to get to. Glad that is done and she's back together.

So tomorrow is the last mild-ish day before a brutal cold week next week, so I want to pull my skis off and do the shims , and will take pics and EDIT the OP in this thread, as well as adding the info here to the end.

Dan

Ohh great. Now you tell
Me. Lol. I just finished. My luck. lol. I just stuck the little piece of rubber I cut off back in there since it fit perfect and I didn’t have anything harder.but I agree anything hard should work from keeping it from
Sinking. Looking forward to finding out what we need to do

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Ohh great. Now you tell
Me. Lol. I just finished. My luck. lol. I just stuck the little piece of rubber I cut off back in there since it fit perfect and I didn’t have anything harder.but I agree anything hard should work from keeping it from
Sinking. Looking forward to finding out what we need to do

Yeah even sticking that small cutoff rubber in there in back center will help some.

I dont think most guys have BRP rubbers, and so that is why id like to use a shim to make the stock winder rubber work better. But I also think the BRP rubber would be best solution after lots of modding the top side.

Dan

 

[Schmecman]

I see the part numbers on page 1. Are those part numbers the ones needed. 32 pages is a lot to go thru and possibly miss something. Thanks ahead of time.

 

[Threeman03]

Yeah even sticking that small cutoff rubber in there in back center will help some.

I dont think most guys have BRP rubbers, and so that is why id like to use a shim to make the stock winder rubber work better. But I also think the BRP rubber would be best solution after lots of modding the top side.

Dan

Yes. I agree. Doo rubbers would be ideal for sure. Problem is I wouldn’t have ability to use band saw or anything to modify . So you would have to do it and then Charge me.!!