XP123
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How did you figure that out? Yes we will be going to Quebec this year.This is a long shot but are you Sals brother? Im at Gowanda CC and I was supposed to go with Sal last year to Gaspe. Are you guys doing a trip this year?
Nooch_1
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Ha- i saw chautauqua and thought it was a long stretch but it could be you. I think you golf with my father in law mike miller in the member-guest? Anyway would love to go if you guys would have me. I've got Sal's number - do you have dates already?


STAIN
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I did this same thing with my lower panels. 1/4-20 rivnuts and I used stainless allen headed bolts with flat and lock washer. This make everything MUCH easier!!!!!What size rivnuts and style of bolt did you use? I'm considering doing this too as my viper was a pain in the azz
Changing fluids.

Doc Harley
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Joe, if you can load pics. That is great. Like to see what you rivet nut job as well.
It's great that you are doing the preventative stuff. You're exceeding the norm. IDK.....shouldn't have to worry about a brand new sled.
It's great that you are doing the preventative stuff. You're exceeding the norm. IDK.....shouldn't have to worry about a brand new sled.
Conedodger
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Keep some antisieze on those stainless 1/4-20s, the stainless in particular are more prone to galling, plus if they get tight in the rivnut u can upset the rivnut trying to get them out.
XP123
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I went with m5-0.8 nuts.What size rivnuts and style of bolt did you use? I'm considering doing this too as my viper was a pain in the azz
Changing fluids.

ROCKERDAN
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Since I'm now retired I spent the day in the shop working on my Winder. I have some observations to share for those who might care. First thing I did was drill out all the rivets on the lower panel chain case side and installed rivet nuts. WOW does that make working on the case and changing oil easy. No more crazy funnels and oil all over the place. Now it will take a few minutes and a screw gun to get that panel off and out of the way. I figured I would do everything at once so I drained the engine oil and removed the cover/oil tank completely from the sled and got it out of my way. I then removed everything from the case and cleaned everything up. I wanted to check and repack the bearing behind the brake rotor and that went well except the rotor gave me some trouble. The groove where the circlip sets had a burr around it so I had to lightly file it off and I still needed to split the caliper to get the rotor off. Once off there was grease everywhere and to my surprise the bearing was like new and still full of grease. I'm thinking some China man got carried away packing the bearing and put too much in. I didn't notice any grooving from a spinning bearing but I will keep my track fairly tight as suggested by a few guys on here. My biggest surprise came when I took the seal off the bearing behind the secondary clutch. The grease flowed out like milk! It was full of water. There was no rust and the bearing looked new but I can't understand how that bearing got so much water in it. I only put 1500 miles on my sled last year and I would recommend EVERYBODY to pull the seal on that bearing and clean and repack it. I did check out the rear suspension and found all the bearings and the tri hub in excellent shape. I was extremely surprised that the hyfax had zero wear. I mean they looked brand new. I know my Doo hyfax wear very fast up under the front wheels at the bend but then stop wearing. These hyfax look like I never rode the sled. Having worked on sleds for over 45 years I will say that working on this Winder is very easy. It's much easier than working on my 1200 Doo especially now that I put those rivet nuts on the lower panel.
"paragraphs are your friend brother"I took some pics but I got tired of typing with one finger and didn't feel like posting them.

Good work on the lower panel ect.
Dan
Last edited:
XP123
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"paragraphs are your friend brother"
Hey I'm just happy you could read it. I'm typing with one finger and I don't look up till I'm done. If you want paragraphs go read a book.![]()


STAIN
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The only one I didn't use a nut-sert on was the top front, I just tapped the hole to size.
I also replaced all my chain case cover bolts with hex head. I hate those soft-#*$&@ torx bolts. I replaced the torx head bolts on the turbo outlet with hex head as well
XP123
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![]()
The only one I didn't use a nut-sert on was the top front, I just tapped the hole to size.
![]()
I also replaced all my chain case cover bolts with hex head. I hate those soft-#*$&@ torx bolts. I replaced the torx head bolts on the turbo outlet with hex head as well
I left the chain case cover bolts alone. Those torx bolts remind me not to torque them too much or else they will strip.
I used philips head screws with washers on my rivet nuts because that's all I could find at the time. The only one that was hard to get at was the one near the top of the shock mount. I had to remove the shock to install the rivetnut.


STAIN
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That was the hole that I just threaded as it goes into the frame............I left the chain case cover bolts alone. Those torx bolts remind me not to torque them too much or else they will strip.
I used philips head screws with washers on my rivet nuts because that's all I could find at the time. The only one that was hard to get at was the one near the top of the shock mount. I had to remove the shock to install the rivetnut.
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