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Quick ltx gt report

The original small amount of yellow oil seems to be from the film on the foam air filter.
I’m in orrville seems like the weather people were right this time lol.. I'm from Orrville too!!
 

Try changing plugs on the trail on a 850 doo. That's fun LOL
Plugs? Why on the doo? Maybe it needs a turbo...LOL..
I posted before I haven't changed a plug since my first rx1 in the fall of 2002. I did have Excell put new ones in my old 06 apex, just because...never been out for 13 years and sometimes I break stuff...lol...but...going there I succombed to a blue and white sidewinder so a plug change was sorta expensive.
 
Re the large hose that inserts into the air box, it comes from the rollover valve. My understanding is if the sled rolls over, the valve let’s oil flow through that tube into the intake. When I installed a TD CAI, I extended that hose to the front of the sled and put a small K&N crankcase vent filter on the end of it. I also noticed a small amount of yellowish oil/water mix in my stock air box.
Great thanks, that’s something I will do as I don’t like having that in my air box. Luckily the air box is tilted so the fluid dripped down the front of the lower panel and not onto the belt.

Seems like the 2020 roll over valve going into the air box isn’t the greatest spot to route the hose.

Would you happen to have pics on how you did the reroute with the k&n filter ?
 
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The original small amount of yellow oil seems to be from the film on the foam air filter.
I’m in orrville seems like the weather people were right this time lol.. I'm from Orrville too!!
As snowcaine mention the roll over hose goes into the air box on the 2020’s and is pressed up against the inside of the air filter and you can clearly see that the fluid is coming from that hose as it’s making a stain on the air filter.

Makes sense now as I had a bit of water come out when I removed the hose on the top of the oil tank to service the chain case and also the fluid was half frozen in the bottom of the air box.

My air filter was completely dry and clean when I brought the sled home from the dealer.
 
Re: teaspoon of water in oil - make sure it was really water and NOT coolant. Normal for there to be condensation in oil tank breather tubes and into air box. It's condensation
 
Great thanks, that’s something I will do as I don’t like having that in my air box. Luckily the air box is tilted so the fluid dripped down the front of the lower panel and not onto the belt.

Seems like the 2020 roll over valve going into the air box isn’t the greatest spot to route the hose.

Would you happen to have pics on how you did the reroute with the k&n filter ?

You'll need two 5/8" I.D. splicer barbs, a length of 5/8" I.D. hose, four hose clamps, and a crankcase vent filter. I ziptied the initial connection to the CAI fitting. I ziptied the connection at the filter to the wiring harness near the fuse box. This wiring harness has hard plastic on it and is sturdy. Make sure the filter can't jostle around and rub the fuse box or any other important components.



 
Re: teaspoon of water in oil - make sure it was really water and NOT coolant. Normal for there to be condensation in oil tank breather tubes and into air box. It's condensation
No was definitely water, when I removed the hose on top of the oil tank there was a bit of water/condensation dripping out.

Wouldn’t that condensation go into the oil tank?
 
You'll need two 5/8" I.D. splicer barbs, a length of 5/8" I.D. hose, four hose clamps, and a crankcase vent filter. I ziptied the initial connection to the CAI fitting. I ziptied the connection at the filter to the wiring harness near the fuse box. This wiring harness has hard plastic on it and is sturdy. Make sure the filter can't jostle around and rub the fuse box or any other important components.



Awesome thanks..
 
You'll need two 5/8" I.D. splicer barbs, a length of 5/8" I.D. hose, four hose clamps, and a crankcase vent filter. I ziptied the initial connection to the CAI fitting. I ziptied the connection at the filter to the wiring harness near the fuse box. This wiring harness has hard plastic on it and is sturdy. Make sure the filter can't jostle around and rub the fuse box or any other important components.



Maybe try and place that hose/breather somewhere lower where it won’t spit out oily water onto anything,
 
Maybe try and place that hose/breather somewhere lower where it won’t spit out oily water onto anything,

Good idea. Although I anticipate the condensation/oil mixture would likely soak and discolor the filter before it just barfed all over anything... It's still miles better than dumping into the intake box.
 
Good idea. Although I anticipate the condensation/oil mixture would likely soak and discolor the filter before it just barfed all over anything... It's still miles better than dumping into the intake box.
Good idea. Although I anticipate the condensation/oil mixture would likely soak and discolor the filter before it just barfed all over anything... It's still miles better than dumping into the intake box.
Yes your idea is definitely way better than having it where it is now, I’m only at 800 km and had a lot of fluid in my air box and belly pan..
 
If you're not going to be upside down or tipped over, just do the bypass and be done with all that goo going into intake tract.
What’s the best way to do this, I’ve been reading pages n pages on this topic and have seen several different ways to bypass the roller over valve.

I was just gonna copy what snowcaine did but just route the hose somewhere lower in the pan.
 
What’s the best way to do this, I’ve been reading pages n pages on this topic and have seen several different ways to bypass the roller over valve.

I was just gonna copy what snowcaine did but just route the hose somewhere lower in the pan.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/getting-rid-of-the-roll-over-valve.151185/
Post #1 from KnappAttack has a pic of how it looks when complete. Don't forget to plug the airbox port or wherever the current hose goes. You can then remove the rollover valve and hoses completely.
 
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/getting-rid-of-the-roll-over-valve.151185/
Post #1 from KnappAttack has a pic of how it looks when complete. Don't forget to plug the airbox port or wherever the current hose goes. You can then remove the rollover valve and hoses completely.

Weren't folks doing the rollover valve bypass because the rollover valve was freezing up and malfunctioning? The '20's are heated. Do you think a complete bypass is still necessary? Thanks.
 


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