Rear suspension sagging?

[cannondale27]

lift the back of the machine and put a 2" spacer under the track so the back sits 2" higher at rest to match the 2" they added to the front too see if the sizzor stops straighten out.

This would be interesting. Good idea! I thought it was 1.5in change in spindle? Hellflyer says 1" ?

 

[ThatOneGuy'sBrother]

Can you take another side view pic? You have the ski springs backed all the way off till keeper is just not rattling when off the floor? What position are the torsions in?

Ski shocks are backed off with the sled in the air till they are loose. Then snugged up just enough so they dont rattle. The front A-arms are almost level.

Rear torsion springs are set on hard. I will be adding the BOP 4 position adjuster for added spring pressure when i am riding it.

Front limiters are on the longest setting.

Untill i reduced the ski spring preload and lowered the front end the rear suspension just sat on the coupler blocks all of the time unless you picked up the rear suspension.

When its on the coupler blocks it takes about 450 pounds on the rear bumper to get it to move.

After making the adjustments to the ski preload it doesn't sit on the coupler blocks and springs up when you get off.

After making adjustments when you get off the front of the track still comes off the ground. About 1/4 inch at the front part of the rail before the curve. Limiter straps are tight. When i say this i am talking about the straight part of the rail. Only about the back 4 inches is supporting the weight of the sled. The rest of the track i can push off of the rail and has slop before it contacts the smooth cement floor. When she gets on the sled the entire straight part of the rail is pressed solid to the track and floor.

I took pictures but my new phone's pictures are too large for the site.

 

[DMCTurbo]

Here are two pics of my dad's sled. First one shows side view where skid mounts to frame. Second pic shows distance to transfer blocks at rest. He measured 9" center-to-center on the limiter straps. Again his issue is that you can manually lift the rear bumper to max height, let go, and it literally drops several inches with no resistance at all. 2020 LTX GT.

Side View With Sagging Issue

• snowcaine
• Apr 7, 2020

Transfer Blocks At Rest With Sagging Issue

• snowcaine
• Apr 7, 2020

My 2017 137 does that when I have the dollies under the front skis and the track on the ground. The scissor rides basically on the transfer rod.

 

[ThatOneGuy'sBrother]

My 2017 137 does that when I have the dollys under the front skis and the track on the ground. The scissor rides basicslly on the transfer rod.

This is with my skis on the ground. I only jacked up the front end to set the ski spring preload.

 

[Turboflash]

My straps are exactly the same. Except for the fact that i lied about them being in the longest hole. They were in the middle of the three. The washer was covering the other two holes and i didnt feel them. Going to change them over to the longest hole and see how that changes things!

I'm sure you know this but just check to make sure the front shock in the skid has enough travel to let limiter straps out. My service manual has a note to never let the limiter straps out any more than factory because the shock travel isn't enough which means you'll have the shock bottoming internally before the limiter straps get tight which will ruin the shock quickly. Not sure why manual says that but I'm going to check out my skid on this in the next week or so.

 

[cannondale27]

I'm sure you know this but just check to make sure the front shock in the skid has enough travel to let limiter straps out. My service manual has a note to never let the limiter straps out any more than factory because the shock travel isn't enough which means you'll have the shock bottoming internally before the limiter straps get tight which will ruin the shock quickly. Not sure why manual says that but I'm going to check out my skid on this in the next week or so.

His Limiter straps are tight so that cant be the issue. Straps are same length as Hellflyers also.

 

[cannondale27]

Ski shocks are backed off with the sled in the air till they are loose. Then snugged up just enough so they dont rattle. The front A-arms are almost level.

Rear torsion springs are set on hard. I will be adding the BOP 4 position adjuster for added spring pressure when i am riding it.

Front limiters are on the longest setting.

Untill i reduced the ski spring preload and lowered the front end the rear suspension just sat on the coupler blocks all of the time unless you picked up the rear suspension.

When its on the coupler blocks it takes about 450 pounds on the rear bumper to get it to move.

After making the adjustments to the ski preload it doesn't sit on the coupler blocks and springs up when you get off.

After making adjustments when you get off the front of the track still comes off the ground. About 1/4 inch at the front part of the rail before the curve. Limiter straps are tight. When i say this i am talking about the straight part of the rail. Only about the back 4 inches is supporting the weight of the sled. The rest of the track i can push off of the rail and has slop before it contacts the smooth cement floor. When she gets on the sled the entire straight part of the rail is pressed solid to the track and floor.

I took pictures but my new phone's pictures are too large for the site.

Can you back off the center shocks spring pressure all the way? Then see what happens

 

[ThatOneGuy'sBrother]

Can you back off the center shocks spring pressure all the way? Then see what happens

I can do that tonight after work!

 

[hellflyer]

I’m gonna have another look at mine today. The only way I can get mine to do what I think your explaining is to lift the front of my sled off the ground! I wish I had compared my buddy’s 18 to mine better when they where in my shop together

 

[swampcat]

I'm sure you know this but just check to make sure the front shock in the skid has enough travel to let limiter straps out. My service manual has a note to never let the limiter straps out any more than factory because the shock travel isn't enough which means you'll have the shock bottoming internally before the limiter straps get tight which will ruin the shock quickly. Not sure why manual says that but I'm going to check out my skid on this in the next week or so.

This condition is referred to as TOPPING out. So not to be confused with the more known bottoming out.

 

[hellflyer]

This is where my transfer blocks are when sitting on flat ground!

 

[ThatOneGuy'sBrother]

Can you back off the center shocks spring pressure all the way? Then see what happens

I backed off the front shock completely. -left my ski shocks in the backed off position. -limiter straps as long as they go. -torsion cam in the hard position. With no one on the sled the track was in contact with the ground and limit straps were slightly snug but not tight. With the wife on the sled it would almost sit on the coupler blocks and not spring back up very far. But when i was on the sled i could actually get the coupled travel to move with my weight 200 lbs on the rear bumper.

With the front spring backed off i adjusted the torsion cam to soft. The suspension sat on the coupler blocks and i could get the coupled travel to move very well while standing on the rear bumper.

I then adjusted the front shock spring preload similar to the front ski shocks. Getting the nut snug on the spring with the suspension fully extended limit straps tight. There is an upper spring cup that you have to get the spring seated in. You can not see it as the plastic shield covers it. In this preload setting it was about an inch and a half less than the factory setting.

With reduced front shock preload. -ski preload backed off. -torsion springs on hard. -limiter straps on the longest setting. The front of the flat part of the rail was still raised off the ground. Limiter straps are still tight. It still came up to almost fulled extended when getting off. When i jumped on the bumper i was able to get the suspension to move in the coupled travel! This is a definite improvement! It does not seem to be as smooth as the pre 2020 LTXs.

I still could not set the torsion springs on soft. As it almsot sits on the coupler blocks with no one on the sled.

Long story short. What i did to make it set to the point where i feel it is ready for a test run on the snow was, adjusted the ski skocks so they have minimum preload, adjusted the front track shock to have minimum preload, adjusted the torsion springs to hard.

It seems acceptable with these final settings.

I backed off the front track shock spring about an inch and a half from factory. Which was the opposite of what most people say to do. Most say to take more weight off the skis so they steer easier. But backing it off made the coupled travel move much better. I still may add my BOP 4 position block for some added torsion power. The rear springs may be weak! But as they are not covered under warranty i am not buying new ones unless i have to.

As to why my skid pulls the front of the track off the ground when fully extended and others don't i have no clue. Just have to compare with another 2020 when the opportunity presents its self!

Time to do the snow dance till winter comes!

 

[hellflyer]

I have 1” of threads below my adjuster nuts on the center shock to the cap and find it perfect like that with snow trackers. Had it tighter but backed it off again.

 

[ThatOneGuy'sBrother]

I have 1” of threads below my adjuster nuts on the center shock to the cap and find it perfect like that with snow trackers. Had it tighter but backed it off again.

I would have to measure, but thst sounds similar to mine. And i am getting snow trackers as well!

 

[cannondale27]

I backed off the front shock completely. -left my ski shocks in the backed off position. -limiter straps as long as they go. -torsion cam in the hard position. With no one on the sled the track was in contact with the ground and limit straps were slightly snug but not tight. With the wife on the sled it would almost sit on the coupler blocks and not spring back up very far. But when i was on the sled i could actually get the coupled travel to move with my weight 200 lbs on the rear bumper.

With the front spring backed off i adjusted the torsion cam to soft. The suspension sat on the coupler blocks and i could get the coupled travel to move very well while standing on the rear bumper.

I then adjusted the front shock spring preload similar to the front ski shocks. Getting the nut snug on the spring with the suspension fully extended limit straps tight. There is an upper spring cup that you have to get the spring seated in. You can not see it as the plastic shield covers it. In this preload setting it was about an inch and a half less than the factory setting.

With reduced front shock preload. -ski preload backed off. -torsion springs on hard. -limiter straps on the longest setting. The front of the flat part of the rail was still raised off the ground. Limiter straps are still tight. It still came up to almost fulled extended when getting off. When i jumped on the bumper i was able to get the suspension to move in the coupled travel! This is a definite improvement! It does not seem to be as smooth as the pre 2020 LTXs.

I still could not set the torsion springs on soft. As it almsot sits on the coupler blocks with no one on the sled.

Long story short. What i did to make it set to the point where i feel it is ready for a test run on the snow was, adjusted the ski skocks so they have minimum preload, adjusted the front track shock to have minimum preload, adjusted the torsion springs to hard.

It seems acceptable with these final settings.

I backed off the front track shock spring about an inch and a half from factory. Which was the opposite of what most people say to do. Most say to take more weight off the skis so they steer easier. But backing it off made the coupled travel move much better. I still may add my BOP 4 position block for some added torsion power. The rear springs may be weak! But as they are not covered under warranty i am not buying new ones unless i have to.

As to why my skid pulls the front of the track off the ground when fully extended and others don't i have no clue. Just have to compare with another 2020 when the opportunity presents its self!

Time to do the snow dance till winter comes!

I would not sweat this too much since the springs will all take a set between 3-500mi and you will be making all kinds of adjustments till then. I admit the tight limiters surely floors me.