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Removing transfer blocks

The racewerx lowest setting is same as stock lowest setting. It does nothing, but gives quick adjustments
 

My stickers must be wrong because #2 on mine is the closest to the shaft i:e more transfer. I did't measure, but it's hardly any difference. I'll measure them up
 
On the Raceworks settings 2,3,4 are like stock settings 1,5,6 are more and less transfer than stock.
Just an FYI
Under what conditions would setting 5 or 6 be used, I like setting 1, the MOST transfer.
 
It seems to me these straps are way too short.....137 sitting flat on concrete floor, the straps are taught, all my doos have a nice amount of slack. The space between the rod(blocks removed) and scissors is already larger then my DOO is on #1 blocks.

So, IMO the 137 needs more strap...I believe only one hole left, will not be enough. Anyone able to lengthen or buy the strap material, id like to make something longer by about 3/4 inch or so.

I am hearing the 129s have better transfer, and wondering the reasons....im guessing it has to do with where the scissors are attached.

Dan
 
Cant go too much longer on the straps, the center shock will TOP out and destroy itself. Straps are the only thing keeping the center shock in check.
 
Cant go too much longer on the straps, the center shock will TOP out and destroy itself. Straps are the only thing keeping the center shock in check.
Gotcha....

I wont spend too much time messing with this, as I will be going for a 129 and have heard they transfer more.

It just boggles my mind that we both sat on sled 2 up studded up and it still wont come up.

Dan
 
Under what conditions would setting 5 or 6 be used, I like setting 1, the MOST transfer.
If more ski bite is wanted and pretty much zero transfer, 5,6 would be preferred. For example icy base with sugar snow or when your skis are washing out on you through the corners (push)
 
Interesting...
 
All I am going to do it elongate the bolt holes 1/16-1/8 of an inch Back, and keep the rubber blocks in.
 
good transfer with the blocks out. I have posted this before. Why not move it back so you can use the blocks to add transfer if needed.
 
what is that going to do? you might as well shave 1/8" off the largest gap side block

You can do that to if you like.
If you move the hole shaft back a 1/16 or 1/18 of an inch you still have 3 positions to use.
IE: If you are boon docking and want less coupling you can do this. Now if you are on the trail and want to beat your buddy's on a head to head you want coupling.
 
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I wasn't happy with the transfer (or lack of) on my 137 skid, so the blocks are out for now.

1/2 inch socket on the impact and the bolts are out. Remove shaft and then remove blocks from shaft. Re-install shaft (w/ blue loctite) with bolts not quite tight, compress the skid to index the flat section of the shaft. I marked the flat with a paint pen and then tightened the two bolts again. It isn't that important that the flats are perfectly aligned to where the rear scissor will contact them; the first full compression of the rear end will take care of that. This just makes sure they are reasonably close...View attachment 124098

Hey Jim, was riding with Tony P. yesterday and his tuned up SW and my bone stocker. I had my blocks out and his were still in. We swapped sleds and couldn't believe how harded mine transferred with the blocks out. Such a small amount but makes a big difference.
 


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