Roll over valve clarification question

[Nordik]

Reading previous post on that topic, It was said the freezing happens in the hose between the oil tank and the valve. If you bypass the valve, there is still a hose that can freeze, no?

If in fact freezing occur in the valve, since it is now heated (I ride a 2025 SRX), if I wait enough between turning the key and starting the engine (how long?), the heated valve prevents that?

Yesterday, I was at the dealer for an oil change. Mechanic noticed a leak on the chain case sealant. He replaced the sealant with black stuff, let it dried for 2 hours. I left, rode 15 miles, and then my engine stopped all of the sudden with SD 30 code ( On my way to the dealer, I also had SD 26 code wich I got also last year at cold temp). I was stuck on the trail with oil on the ground.

Explanation I got was condensation frozed in the tube and pressure blew the gasket. It was -15 C with strong wind. My sled stayed 20 minutes outside the garage before I left)

 

[KnappAttack]

Your dealer mechanic is in need of a head examination. Silicone sealant needs 24 hrs min. to cure on a clean dry and warm surface before even putting oil in. 2 hrs is not near enough time to cure. I’ve done dozens of these without issues.

The valve is what freezes shut, not the hose. I’ve run 5/8” hose that is oil resistant since the beginning and never had a freeze up. If you follow the ROV delete post I did years ago, dump it out behind the muffler like I did with a rearward slash cut on the hose it will not freeze. Hot air goes thru the hose, the muffler heat and rearward slash cut keeps the end from freezing. Note: I now use 5/8 fuel line and use an elbow downward to prevent any kinks from happening in the line which can happen depending on the line.

Thread 'Getting rid of the roll over valve'

Jan 3, 2018

This is what I’ve done to get rid of the problematic valve. Just a hardware store 5/8" ID hose wrapped with foil heat tape, looped it up and over down to under the running board. Let bottom hang and inch or two below the board. You can see how much blowby you have also.

I plugged the line where the stock hose went into the turbo intake with a rubber 3/8" ID cap stretched over the intake turbo tube nipple and clamped.

Now the intake is not getting that blow-by exhaust and no worry of the supposed factory "roll over" valve sticking shut and blowing out the oil tank seal again.

It worked...

• KnappAttack
• Replies: 884
• Forum: SideWinder Trail Talk

• 

Did your engine lockup from lack of oil?

 

[Nordik]

I hope that the engine was shut in time by the sensor for protection due to the lack of oil.

Thank you for your very clear reply.

So we cannot rely on the heating of the valve?

 

[Nordik]

Also, with that by pass, back from a ride in the garage. shall I expect drips on the floor?

 

[KnappAttack]

I hope that the engine was shut in time by the sensor for protection due to the lack of oil.

Thank you for your very clear reply.

So we cannot rely on the heating of the valve?

I hope so too. No, even with heated valve they have froze. I typically yank them out on 60-80% of the machines I have had thru the shop on owners request.

Also, with that by pass, back from a ride in the garage. shall I expect drips on the floor?

You may get a few drips of oil or foamy moisture mix when the sled is newer with lower miles on it. As the engine breaks in, you will get nothing.