You will likely need to prime your oil pump after the re-install - here is a thread about it.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=19553&highlight=oil+circulating
Thanks everyone!
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=19553&highlight=oil+circulating
Thanks everyone!
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
Thanks Jim(lakercr) for this awesome thread....My buildup of the new motor is going well....this site is the best because of members like you who help others!....
Jim knows his stuff guys...members like him are simply the best!...
thanks again bud,Ill give ya a shout when Im ready to fire her up....just waiting for some gaskets and misc parts and then she will be ready to go back into sled....
Dan
Jim knows his stuff guys...members like him are simply the best!...
thanks again bud,Ill give ya a shout when Im ready to fire her up....just waiting for some gaskets and misc parts and then she will be ready to go back into sled....
Dan
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
- Joined
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Hey guys..just thought id post here ....I got the motor all done,and it went very smoothly....after a snapped 1 head stud all went smoothly...
Head studs:
I would recommend after what happend to me on my rebuild,to buy 10 new head studs,they were about 40 bucks for stock ones and its worth the peice of mind(turbo guys I recommend heavy duty stud kit)....I had one snap,and some told me they are a stretch material,and should be replaced when rebuilt....so its worth it.....after i got the new ones mine torqued down really nicely using Ted J's recommendations.....but prior to the new studs,they were all very irratic on the torque,then one snapped...so just buy new ones IMO.
OIL SYSTEM ON INITIAL STARTUP:
the oil system at first startup is abit finiky.....as some have said in another thread....
I poured about 1/2 liter oil into the valve cover plug,and then poured about 2 liters into the oil tank....
then with the oil dipstick installed tight,I removed the smaller return line(right behind dipstick) from the nipple,and then I took my air compressor and blew air into that small nipple(tank)..this helps to open up the check valve in the oil pump....
after that,I removed the oil dipstick and then held the small oil return line over the large dipstick hole...and started the motor initially....
I let it run about 20 seconds,watching the oil return line closely to see if oil would start to come out,it did not,so I went thru the process again,and started motor again...after 2nd time I noticed the level on dipstick had gone way down,so now I knew the oil had got sucked into the pump this time.... I added another liter or so,to get level to top of FULL mark on stick..
it took 3 times...after the 3rd time you could see the oil pumping out of the small return line...i just held it overtop of the dipstick hole(dipstick removed ) it worked great!
then after I knew oil was pumping well,I let it idle until warm....
COOLING SYSTEM:
intially I had removed the thermostat cap,and poured coolant under thermostat...this got coolant under it and into the motor...I then reinstalled thermostat and filled main reservoir with coolant....
after motor warms initially....the coolant in bottle dropped....I then opened the rear heat exchanger/crossover bleed screw(with #*$&@ end of sled in the air abit)...and filled reservoir while motor idled....and eventually started seeing coolant coming out of bleed screw..so all the air was out....install bleed screw and fill reservoir up and overflow reservoir then to COLD level....
I used 50/50 mixture of anti-freeze/water and 2/3 bottle of REDLINE WATER WETTER.
JIM....thanks again for all your help(and this thread)on my rebuild....it went perfectly for me,and I saved a bundle doing it myself....I now know my apex inside and out!..
Dan
Head studs:
I would recommend after what happend to me on my rebuild,to buy 10 new head studs,they were about 40 bucks for stock ones and its worth the peice of mind(turbo guys I recommend heavy duty stud kit)....I had one snap,and some told me they are a stretch material,and should be replaced when rebuilt....so its worth it.....after i got the new ones mine torqued down really nicely using Ted J's recommendations.....but prior to the new studs,they were all very irratic on the torque,then one snapped...so just buy new ones IMO.
OIL SYSTEM ON INITIAL STARTUP:
the oil system at first startup is abit finiky.....as some have said in another thread....
I poured about 1/2 liter oil into the valve cover plug,and then poured about 2 liters into the oil tank....
then with the oil dipstick installed tight,I removed the smaller return line(right behind dipstick) from the nipple,and then I took my air compressor and blew air into that small nipple(tank)..this helps to open up the check valve in the oil pump....
after that,I removed the oil dipstick and then held the small oil return line over the large dipstick hole...and started the motor initially....
I let it run about 20 seconds,watching the oil return line closely to see if oil would start to come out,it did not,so I went thru the process again,and started motor again...after 2nd time I noticed the level on dipstick had gone way down,so now I knew the oil had got sucked into the pump this time.... I added another liter or so,to get level to top of FULL mark on stick..
it took 3 times...after the 3rd time you could see the oil pumping out of the small return line...i just held it overtop of the dipstick hole(dipstick removed ) it worked great!
then after I knew oil was pumping well,I let it idle until warm....
COOLING SYSTEM:
intially I had removed the thermostat cap,and poured coolant under thermostat...this got coolant under it and into the motor...I then reinstalled thermostat and filled main reservoir with coolant....
after motor warms initially....the coolant in bottle dropped....I then opened the rear heat exchanger/crossover bleed screw(with #*$&@ end of sled in the air abit)...and filled reservoir while motor idled....and eventually started seeing coolant coming out of bleed screw..so all the air was out....install bleed screw and fill reservoir up and overflow reservoir then to COLD level....
I used 50/50 mixture of anti-freeze/water and 2/3 bottle of REDLINE WATER WETTER.
JIM....thanks again for all your help(and this thread)on my rebuild....it went perfectly for me,and I saved a bundle doing it myself....I now know my apex inside and out!..
Dan
lakercr
Tech Advisor
Hey, good stuff Dan! Congrats on taking on the job and getting it completed! We spent a fair bit of time on the phone, so I know you took your time and did it right. Great advice on the head studs as well.
You do realize your buddies are going to be hitting you up for head gasket and related work now, right?!
You do realize your buddies are going to be hitting you up for head gasket and related work now, right?!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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Rockerdan - congrats on your finished engine build
Buddies asking for help is a spinoff from knowing your sled inside and out, ask me about it LOL - it's good fun beeing able to help out friends on their turbo projects.
Keep us posted on how she's going when the snow flies.
lakercr is truly a great resource to this site, posting pics and great info on the RX/Apex motor.
Buddies asking for help is a spinoff from knowing your sled inside and out, ask me about it LOL - it's good fun beeing able to help out friends on their turbo projects.
Keep us posted on how she's going when the snow flies.
lakercr is truly a great resource to this site, posting pics and great info on the RX/Apex motor.
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
Hey guys...thanks!....Im so glad i did it,and it will be an honor to help out any fellow apex heads with motor work....
now that the motor is done,and shes running nicely...Im so glad I did it myself,Jim helped me through it and I wasnt sure but now am so glad as he said I would be after its all done...
its funny,when you tear this sled right down to nothing....and then put it back together...I feel i know exactly where every nut and bolt go,and knowing how every cable and hose is also run and where is knowledge that cannot be had any other way....but to do it yourself!..LOL
cant wait till the snow flies....ill be posting in apex forums as per usual!....cya all soon!
Dan
now that the motor is done,and shes running nicely...Im so glad I did it myself,Jim helped me through it and I wasnt sure but now am so glad as he said I would be after its all done...
its funny,when you tear this sled right down to nothing....and then put it back together...I feel i know exactly where every nut and bolt go,and knowing how every cable and hose is also run and where is knowledge that cannot be had any other way....but to do it yourself!..LOL
cant wait till the snow flies....ill be posting in apex forums as per usual!....cya all soon!
Dan
srxguy
Expert
Just put a rx1 motor together with wantboost...This thread came in very handy!!...Thanks Jim!!!
lakercr
Tech Advisor
srxguy said:Just put a rx1 motor together with wantboost...This thread came in very handy!!...Thank Jim!!!
Good stuff, that's what this site is all about!
Did you guys finish the head, cams etc. yet?
srxguy
Expert
Yep, she is all ready to bolt back in the sled!!...lakercr said:srxguy said:Just put a rx1 motor together with wantboost...This thread came in very handy!!...Thank Jim!!!
Good stuff, that's what this site is all about!
Did you guys finish the head, cams etc. yet?
ryan7
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2008
- Messages
- 2
Oil system
Hey,
This is an amazing post. Kudos to you for taking the time to help people. Hope the favor is returned to you. I am wondering how the oil system is plumbed on this motor. Where does the flow come and go from the crank case, oil reservoir, and motor return? I have asked a lot of people and got no answer so I hope you can help. I am running a BD Apex.
Thanks,
Ryan
lakercr said:Adding the plumbing...
Hey,
This is an amazing post. Kudos to you for taking the time to help people. Hope the favor is returned to you. I am wondering how the oil system is plumbed on this motor. Where does the flow come and go from the crank case, oil reservoir, and motor return? I have asked a lot of people and got no answer so I hope you can help. I am running a BD Apex.
Thanks,
Ryan
lakercr
Tech Advisor
Re: Oil system
Thanks. I've had the favor returned countless times in 20+ years of sledding...
Off the top of my head - oil is drawn from the bottom of the sump reservoir into oil pump through a 1-way check valve. The pump pushes oil (about 68-70 psi) through the oil filter, oil cooler and then the passages throughout the engine. Oil collects in the pan, where the screened pick-up collects the oil and returns it to the sump reservoir. The thick black hose (with braiding on it) is the oil return, the hose immediately beside it on the block is a vent line.
ryan7 said:lakercr said:Adding the plumbing...
Hey,
This is an amazing post. Kudos to you for taking the time to help people. Hope the favor is returned to you. I am wondering how the oil system is plumbed on this motor. Where does the flow come and go from the crank case, oil reservoir, and motor return? I have asked a lot of people and got no answer so I hope you can help. I am running a BD Apex.
Thanks,
Ryan
Thanks. I've had the favor returned countless times in 20+ years of sledding...
Off the top of my head - oil is drawn from the bottom of the sump reservoir into oil pump through a 1-way check valve. The pump pushes oil (about 68-70 psi) through the oil filter, oil cooler and then the passages throughout the engine. Oil collects in the pan, where the screened pick-up collects the oil and returns it to the sump reservoir. The thick black hose (with braiding on it) is the oil return, the hose immediately beside it on the block is a vent line.
Freak
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
bump for a friend.
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Is this post also stickied or linked somewhere?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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All old and new stickies have been collected into the 3 stickies on top of page 1.
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