snefokk
Extreme
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2008
- Messages
- 68
- Age
- 53
- Location
- Lakselv,North-Norway,Locator:KQ20LB
- Website
- snefokk.blogspot.com
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- Nytro TTX
hope you do firering her up soon, ive been riding 600km already,and where have you been-stuck in the garage
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Well I have about 4 km on my stock Apex hahaha, still working on the turbo sled as you can see, I'm getting there....slowly
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE January 6. - Bolting down the REV fuel tank. Installing Hallman Pro RX manual boost controller.
I added the gas tank vent line and changed out the hose clamp for the fuel line with a better hose clamp, I do not want it to leak gas that close to the turbo, header and downpipe.
Tightened down the nuts holding the rear of the gas tank to the frame.
Installed a Hallman Pro RX manual boost controller on the line between the turbo compressor housing and the waste gate bell.
I need to fab up a mounting bracket to hold the front end of the gas tank to the frame. The aluminum tubing and silicon hoses I have on order should be in tomorrow I hope
I added the gas tank vent line and changed out the hose clamp for the fuel line with a better hose clamp, I do not want it to leak gas that close to the turbo, header and downpipe.
Tightened down the nuts holding the rear of the gas tank to the frame.
Installed a Hallman Pro RX manual boost controller on the line between the turbo compressor housing and the waste gate bell.
I need to fab up a mounting bracket to hold the front end of the gas tank to the frame. The aluminum tubing and silicon hoses I have on order should be in tomorrow I hope
devil
Extreme
looks awesome man, i love seeing all the pics. (i never remember to take pics of anything) same boost controller i have, except being a rear mount kit i have the cable extension for it so that the knob is right up by the guages. seems to work good for me, but i've only had it out once this year.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE January 7. - Installing heatshield, secondary clutch and side covers.
My friend came over last night, he had the last heatshield with him and a few tools to install threads to the shield and the deltabox frame for the bolts holding the heat shield in place.
The shield installed, there should not be any problems with radiant heat from the header, downpipe and turbo reaching the secondary clutch.
Secondary clutch and drive belt installed. Before installing the belt I cleaned off the clutch faces and the belt.
Mounted the modified clutch cover.
Finally it was time to install the side covers
The hood closed. It's starting to look like a sled... nice, I'm getting there, not much left.
I've got the alu tubes and silicone hoses I ordered. Now I'm ready to install the charge tube between turbo and IC. When that's done I will start fabricating the piping and hosing to go in between the air filter and the turbo air inlet.
My friend came over last night, he had the last heatshield with him and a few tools to install threads to the shield and the deltabox frame for the bolts holding the heat shield in place.
The shield installed, there should not be any problems with radiant heat from the header, downpipe and turbo reaching the secondary clutch.
Secondary clutch and drive belt installed. Before installing the belt I cleaned off the clutch faces and the belt.
Mounted the modified clutch cover.
Finally it was time to install the side covers
The hood closed. It's starting to look like a sled... nice, I'm getting there, not much left.
I've got the alu tubes and silicone hoses I ordered. Now I'm ready to install the charge tube between turbo and IC. When that's done I will start fabricating the piping and hosing to go in between the air filter and the turbo air inlet.
obr
Lifetime Member
well, it's starting to look like a sled allright.
Hope you have it done by the end of the month. I'm coming to Lakselv for the test and tune weekend the last weekend of the month, and hope to be bringing my SC RX...Would be fun to ride and compare the two...
Hope you have it done by the end of the month. I'm coming to Lakselv for the test and tune weekend the last weekend of the month, and hope to be bringing my SC RX...Would be fun to ride and compare the two...
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Welcome over buddy, I'll do my best to get'r done and tuned when you come over.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE January 11. - Installing charge tube between turbo and intercooler.
Here's the parts I ordered to finish off the charge tube and air filter hosing. It's one aluminum 2" tube for the charge tube between the turbo and IC and a few 3" tubes, bends and silicon hoses and bends to go in between the air filter and the turbo air inlet. Parts have to be cut to fit before I'm able to install them in the sled.
Here's the missing charge tube. I had to cut and adjust the silicon bend holding the Vortech on it's RH side to make the tube point directly at the IC inlet.
Then I mesured up and cut the 2" aluminum tube.
Here's the silicon hoses I used to connect the tube I just cut to the Vortech and the IC. At the IC I used a 5 cm or 2" long straight silicone hose, at the Vortech I used a 45 degree 2" silicone bend I custom cut to give me the perfect angle.
All hoses and tubes installed, hose clamps installed and tightened down, done.
Air filter remains, with the filter done it's time to start up the engine
Here's the parts I ordered to finish off the charge tube and air filter hosing. It's one aluminum 2" tube for the charge tube between the turbo and IC and a few 3" tubes, bends and silicon hoses and bends to go in between the air filter and the turbo air inlet. Parts have to be cut to fit before I'm able to install them in the sled.
Here's the missing charge tube. I had to cut and adjust the silicon bend holding the Vortech on it's RH side to make the tube point directly at the IC inlet.
Then I mesured up and cut the 2" aluminum tube.
Here's the silicon hoses I used to connect the tube I just cut to the Vortech and the IC. At the IC I used a 5 cm or 2" long straight silicone hose, at the Vortech I used a 45 degree 2" silicone bend I custom cut to give me the perfect angle.
All hoses and tubes installed, hose clamps installed and tightened down, done.
Air filter remains, with the filter done it's time to start up the engine
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE January 11. - Installing air filter, silicon hoses and aluminum tubing - part 1.
My friend Mikkel dropped by last night and we went out in the garage to take a look at my work so far. We ended up modifying the silicone hoses and aluminum tubes to fit.
Here's what it looks like after the first mockup install.
The air filter and tubing barely cleared the Vortech.
It's pretty close to the clutch cover, but I'm still able to remove and install the cover, no problem.
Pretty nice setup.
A few 90 millimeter hose clamps are needed, gotta go downtown to the gas stations to see if one of them have suitable hose clamps in stock.
Some adjustments may be necessary to make the best possible fit before I start cutting a hole in the hood for the air filter and tubing.
My friend Mikkel dropped by last night and we went out in the garage to take a look at my work so far. We ended up modifying the silicone hoses and aluminum tubes to fit.
Here's what it looks like after the first mockup install.
The air filter and tubing barely cleared the Vortech.
It's pretty close to the clutch cover, but I'm still able to remove and install the cover, no problem.
Pretty nice setup.
A few 90 millimeter hose clamps are needed, gotta go downtown to the gas stations to see if one of them have suitable hose clamps in stock.
Some adjustments may be necessary to make the best possible fit before I start cutting a hole in the hood for the air filter and tubing.
SWEET
That looks nice buddy - you better send me a MMS with a video attacment when you fire that baby up
Two quick questions: do you want to sell the rest off the 50mm aluminium straight pipe. I need a 50mm alu. pipe for my Vortech adapter for your old MCX kit. No one in town had any 50mm alu.pipe. What is the length of the apater you used.
That looks nice buddy - you better send me a MMS with a video attacment when you fire that baby up
Two quick questions: do you want to sell the rest off the 50mm aluminium straight pipe. I need a 50mm alu. pipe for my Vortech adapter for your old MCX kit. No one in town had any 50mm alu.pipe. What is the length of the apater you used.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
I know, I had to order the pipe from a street car auto shop, www.maxam-tuning.com
If I don't need it I would sell it to you for half the price, I cut it in half, it was 50 cm x 2" and I only needed 25 cm for the charge tube. I'll let you know, or you may ask me again some day later
Talk to you later buddy.
If I don't need it I would sell it to you for half the price, I cut it in half, it was 50 cm x 2" and I only needed 25 cm for the charge tube. I'll let you know, or you may ask me again some day later
Talk to you later buddy.
I will take it - shoot me a sms with price for tube and shipping
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE January 12-13. - Installing air filter, silicon hoses and aluminum tubing - part 2. Sealing off the headlight pod after cutting into it. Cutting out a hole in the hood for the air filter - part 1.
The first air filter install failed. When I tried to lower the hood the piping did not fit at all. I had to redo the piping. I started by rerouting the vacuum line for the Vortech underneat the compressor housing of the turbo and connect it 180 deg to the other side, pointing backwards to make more room in front of the Vortech, and also to be able to lower the charge tube another 10 millimeter to make more room for the air filter piping.
With only the parts showing in the previous pic installed I lowered the hood, now the hood hit the Vortech so I had to cut out a few small holes in the hood to allow room for the Vortech when lowering the hood.
Next was rerouting hoses and refabricating of the 45 deg aluminum bend. This work took a lot of time. I ended up having to make the connecting alu pieces between silicone hoses oval to make more room so that the hood wouldn't hit the piping. A 100 mockup installs later I ended up with the final cut and called it finished. I tightened down every connection with a hose clamp, removed the air filter and found that I were able to close the hood. Now I reinstalled the air filter and tightened it down. Done.
This is how it looks like.
To make room for the 45 degree hose bend connected to the turbo air inlet I had to cut out a lot of plastic from the hood and the head light pod. To prevent snow from entering the head light reflector and hit the bulb I sealed it off with some silicone and silver duct-tape.
With the air filter placed over the clutch shield plate obviously I had to cut out the hood to make room for the filter. Believe me I have investigated every possibility there is for the last few months, but this was the only way I could install my HUGE air filter. Preparing to start cutting out the hood, I covered the engine bay with a few cotton sheets to prevent debris to make a mess in there.
I used a Dremel with a cutter drill bit (looks like a drill bit but it cuts) to cut out the large pieces
Then I used a grinder bit to grind it to perfection
I have a few more adjustment do to before the hood cutting is finished. When cutting is done I have to glue some material between the air filter and the deltabox frame. And finally I will install a snow/water prefilter and then clamp the filter and tubing to the deltabox frame.
A few pics of my friends Attak project.
My friends sled under development. He's got a lot of work left but he on the last lap now. A few pics of what it looks like so far. Most stuff is fabricated, the final assembly starts very soon.
Air filter located in front of the tank. His sled will retain a 100% stock look. No changes have been made to the exterior of the sled.
His REV gas tank have been cut and plastic welded to fit the stock hole in the tank covling. Fuel level pickup have been modified and installed in the tank as well.
The first air filter install failed. When I tried to lower the hood the piping did not fit at all. I had to redo the piping. I started by rerouting the vacuum line for the Vortech underneat the compressor housing of the turbo and connect it 180 deg to the other side, pointing backwards to make more room in front of the Vortech, and also to be able to lower the charge tube another 10 millimeter to make more room for the air filter piping.
With only the parts showing in the previous pic installed I lowered the hood, now the hood hit the Vortech so I had to cut out a few small holes in the hood to allow room for the Vortech when lowering the hood.
Next was rerouting hoses and refabricating of the 45 deg aluminum bend. This work took a lot of time. I ended up having to make the connecting alu pieces between silicone hoses oval to make more room so that the hood wouldn't hit the piping. A 100 mockup installs later I ended up with the final cut and called it finished. I tightened down every connection with a hose clamp, removed the air filter and found that I were able to close the hood. Now I reinstalled the air filter and tightened it down. Done.
This is how it looks like.
To make room for the 45 degree hose bend connected to the turbo air inlet I had to cut out a lot of plastic from the hood and the head light pod. To prevent snow from entering the head light reflector and hit the bulb I sealed it off with some silicone and silver duct-tape.
With the air filter placed over the clutch shield plate obviously I had to cut out the hood to make room for the filter. Believe me I have investigated every possibility there is for the last few months, but this was the only way I could install my HUGE air filter. Preparing to start cutting out the hood, I covered the engine bay with a few cotton sheets to prevent debris to make a mess in there.
I used a Dremel with a cutter drill bit (looks like a drill bit but it cuts) to cut out the large pieces
Then I used a grinder bit to grind it to perfection
I have a few more adjustment do to before the hood cutting is finished. When cutting is done I have to glue some material between the air filter and the deltabox frame. And finally I will install a snow/water prefilter and then clamp the filter and tubing to the deltabox frame.
A few pics of my friends Attak project.
My friends sled under development. He's got a lot of work left but he on the last lap now. A few pics of what it looks like so far. Most stuff is fabricated, the final assembly starts very soon.
Air filter located in front of the tank. His sled will retain a 100% stock look. No changes have been made to the exterior of the sled.
His REV gas tank have been cut and plastic welded to fit the stock hole in the tank covling. Fuel level pickup have been modified and installed in the tank as well.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE January 14. - Installing air filter, silicon hoses and aluminum tubing - part 3. Cutting out a hole in the hood for the air filter - part 2.
It took some modifications to the silicone and aluminum tubing to make it fit under the hood. The hood took a lot of cutting before the air filter fit perfectly.
Piping modified and hood cut to fit the new location of the air filter and piping. I'm getting closer, the hood is almost done.
Grinding the hood is done. Everything fits pretty good.
Seen from the front.
The hood strapped on, time to install the prefilter.
Prefilter installed.
I'm happy with it. My goal was to get the power and performance, looks are secondary in project as almost everything is customized on my sled. I should get enough air in there. Wonder what's gonna happen when I hit the deep, give it throttle an keep the skis on top LOL. I'm done with underhood work for now.
I also installed wireing to hold the hood in the open position. I adjusted the throttle cable to the required free play. My next work will be on the ADBoivin ZX-2 skid. I went to the Doo dealer and bought a set of sliders for the skid, will install them next time out. The old sliders had 40% life left at 3700 kms or 2300 miles. I want to prevent the balata strap from moving around by installing two equal lenght 1" ID plastic or aluminum tubes, or maybe a rubber hose fastened with hose clamps close to the balata strap. That should keep it centered on the upper cross shaft.
It took some modifications to the silicone and aluminum tubing to make it fit under the hood. The hood took a lot of cutting before the air filter fit perfectly.
Piping modified and hood cut to fit the new location of the air filter and piping. I'm getting closer, the hood is almost done.
Grinding the hood is done. Everything fits pretty good.
Seen from the front.
The hood strapped on, time to install the prefilter.
Prefilter installed.
I'm happy with it. My goal was to get the power and performance, looks are secondary in project as almost everything is customized on my sled. I should get enough air in there. Wonder what's gonna happen when I hit the deep, give it throttle an keep the skis on top LOL. I'm done with underhood work for now.
I also installed wireing to hold the hood in the open position. I adjusted the throttle cable to the required free play. My next work will be on the ADBoivin ZX-2 skid. I went to the Doo dealer and bought a set of sliders for the skid, will install them next time out. The old sliders had 40% life left at 3700 kms or 2300 miles. I want to prevent the balata strap from moving around by installing two equal lenght 1" ID plastic or aluminum tubes, or maybe a rubber hose fastened with hose clamps close to the balata strap. That should keep it centered on the upper cross shaft.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
UPDATE January 16. - Modifying ZX-2's balata strap. Installing ZX-2.
The ZX-2 skid strap at the front were not fixed and were moving around on the shafts, often completely out to one of the sides. This would cause the skids front arm twist slightly when extending and the sled would start to pull to one of the sides under hard acceleration. Older Yamaha skids always had 2 straps, one on each side to keep the front arm aligned as good as possible.
To remedy the "loose" ZX-2 strap I made up 2 spacers from a 2" ID rubber hose and installed them on each side of the balata strap to keep it from moving around. The rubber hoses were cut to 48 millimeters or just shy of 2".
Next was installing the skid. I used lots of Loctite on the 4 skid bolts before installing them. Skid installed
With the skid installed I checked all other bolts in the skid with a torque wrench. All bolts were tight, not a single one moved before the wrench clicked out, great.
Finally she's on her own two feet
Next work is fitting the stock Apex seat to the REV gas tank. First I have to mold a fibreglass bottom to go into the seat bottom. Will start the work this coming week. Will take a lot of pics when working on the seat.
The ZX-2 skid strap at the front were not fixed and were moving around on the shafts, often completely out to one of the sides. This would cause the skids front arm twist slightly when extending and the sled would start to pull to one of the sides under hard acceleration. Older Yamaha skids always had 2 straps, one on each side to keep the front arm aligned as good as possible.
To remedy the "loose" ZX-2 strap I made up 2 spacers from a 2" ID rubber hose and installed them on each side of the balata strap to keep it from moving around. The rubber hoses were cut to 48 millimeters or just shy of 2".
Next was installing the skid. I used lots of Loctite on the 4 skid bolts before installing them. Skid installed
With the skid installed I checked all other bolts in the skid with a torque wrench. All bolts were tight, not a single one moved before the wrench clicked out, great.
Finally she's on her own two feet
Next work is fitting the stock Apex seat to the REV gas tank. First I have to mold a fibreglass bottom to go into the seat bottom. Will start the work this coming week. Will take a lot of pics when working on the seat.
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