rxrider's Turbo Garage - pics back, will continue

[BenderSRX]

The suspence is killing me here rxrider

 

[rxrider]

hahahahaha - I've had no time updating the thread lately, just uploaded 30-some pics on photobucket for a long overdue update to my turbo build thread.

I'm only a few hours away from finished stay tuned.

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE February 9. - Fabricating rear seat mounting brackets.


I started out by removing the backets where the old hooks used to be. I turned the old mount around 180 degrees and bolted them to the seat to make room to install the new seat mounting bracket.

Here's the first part of the bracket fabricated and installed to the old mounts using a few of these.

After some measuring I cut off some from the rear plastics. It's needed to hold the taillight in place.

Here's what it looks like from the side, no brackets mounted at this time.

Installing the rods to the seat bracket.

From the bracket mounted to the seat I went with two 5/8" or 15 millimeter aluminum hollow threaded rods to hold the seat up in the rear. Here's what it looks like with the rods mounted.

Pretty cool, I like

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE February 10. - Fabricating the front seat mounts. Adding more wents in the plastics behind the engine and turbo. Preparing the seat and seat bottom to be joined together.


Last work to be done before joining the seat bottom and seat was fabricating the front seat mounts. The soultion we came up with was as simple as it was genious, we used a nylon strap loosely attached to the seat plastics and then wrapped it under neat the fuel tank and strapped it in place. The seat was rock solid mounted to the tank not a single movement. Checked with my Apex RTX and it had more play to the seat and it was bolted down, the mod seat was only strapped down with the nylon strap

I made two slots in the seat bottom plastics, one on each side in front of the seat to threat the nylon strap through.

Here's the strap mounted to the seat. I'm finally ready to finish off the seat. Time to add the fibreglass and polyester to join up the parts.

Last work this evening was adding holes to the covers behind the engine to have better air flow past the engine, clutches and turbo.

A few pics of my friends sled, he's not far behind me, but some work still remains before his sled is done and ready to ride.

Seat in place.

Under the tunnel.

Exhaust outlet. Double divorced downpipe from Powder Lites. 144" x 1.5" Camoplast Crossover track.

Turbo and air filter.

Preparing the seat to be joined to the seat bottom.

I did it the same way as my friend but I didn't take any pics :-( luckily my friend did when workin on his seat.


Now all we have to do is joining the seat parts. Will do ASAP

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE February 11. - Joining together my custom Apex seat and the fibreglass seat bottom.


Sorry I have no pics from the molding of the seat parts, too much sticky glue and fibreglass on my latex gloves to risk the camera, also had a gas mask on when working on the seat.

Here's a few pics of the modded Apex seat finally finished.

When prepping the seat I drilled out a lot of 1/4" or 6 millimeter holes in the seat plastic and the fibreglass seat bottom to have better hookup for the polyester fibreglass glue.

The nylon strap goes in between the seat plastic/seat bottom and the foam.

Seen from the rear.

I will leave the seat sitting upside down like in the pic to have it dry a bit more before installing it on the sled.

 

[Rockmeister]

Looking Waaaaay cool!

I am curious, what are the intermediate connectors you used?
They are between the original seat bracket and the aluminum bracket the rods go to.
You have a bolt through the aluminum bracket into them.


(Cool hollow aluminum bar stock also! Whats it called?)

 

[rxrider]

I will take a few pics of them tonight. They have 8 millimeter metric threads in one end and an 6 millimeter eye at a 90 degree angle at the other end.

The 90 deg end mounts to the stock connectors. The cross bar is made from a Ski-Doo REV frame part, the one that holds down the gas tank on the REV. The hollow aluminum rods are bolted onto the ends of the cross bar, now the rods are bolted to the tunnel using one large washer above the tunnel and one below the tunnel. All connections are bolted by 8 millimeter metric bolts.

The aluminum bars (rods) came hollow, all we had to do was cutting it to length and add threads to the ends of the bar/rod. What's it called, have no clue???

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE February 12. - Installing seat and tank covling.


Last piece of the puzzle is modified and installed.

I started by threading the 25 millimeter or 1" nylon strap under the tank and out the other side where I joined the open end of the strap to the lock and tightened the seat down. I didn't want to cut the excess strap, ended up taping it up under the tank covling.

In the rear I added washers above the tunnel, added blue Loctite to the bolt threads, added the washer and tightened down the bolts. Done. The seat are now rock solid mounted on the sled. Now matter how hard I rock the seat it won't move, when I do the same on my stock sled the seat rocks side to side easily. I'm very happy with the outcome of the seat project.

Seat work is finally done

Next work was installing the tank covling. At the first attemp to install it I found that the gas tank filler neck was not centered in the hole I'd made for it in the tank covling.... bummer. I had to mark up on where to cut, remove the covling, then out with the Dremel and grind the hole larger on the offending sides.

Tank covling installed, done.

I still need to order new graphics from ArcticFX, until then my sled will be mostly black.

Before calling it the day I filled up one jerry can (20 liters or 5+ us gallons) of premium pump gas 98 octane RON or about 93 octane US (R+M)/2

I'm so ready to the sled HAHAHAHAHAHA


Here's the pieces holding the mounting bracket to the stock mounts on the seat.

 

[Rockmeister]

Here's the pieces holding the mounting bracket to the stock mounts on the seat.

What do you call those pieces, they are pretty cool!
Can see a number of uses for them...

The "bar stock" I asked about was apparently the REV frame piece, pretty cool hollow material also.

Looks great!

 

[rxrider]

Thanks rockmeister

HAHAHA I don't even know what they are called in Norwegian. Yeah they came in very handy. When my friend found them in the hardware store he immediatly knew where to use them, both on his and my sled. With those parts at hand the design was changed for a more simplistic design vs what we had originally planned for

Yeah I cut a piece from the REV to make the crossbar, it's hollow but also has reinforcements internally to add strucktural strength to the bar. The bar will not collapse no matter how hard I tork down the bolts

 

[nytroERrider]

Looks great man!!!!!!! Running yet? Or did it rip your arms off already so you cant type?

hahaha

Jake

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE February 14. - Free air calibration of the WBO2. Fire in the hole, it's alive. Checking oil level.


With the gas tank half way filled with fresh fuel it's time to start calibrating the Innovate LC-1 WBO2 and finally.... fire up the engine.


Key in position, ready to fire her up

Ignition on. Checked - OK
Instrument panel check. Checked - OK
Press Calibration button the WBO2. Checked - reads CAL
Heating sequence initiated. Checked - OK

Free air calibration initiated. Checked - OK
Free air calibration ended successfully. Checked - reads o2 and 20.9 repeatingly, OK

Free air calibration completed. Checked - OK

Ready to fire up the engine. Positive.
Chocke lever at 100% Checked - OK
Ignition kill switch functioning. Checked - OK - it kills ignition
Ignition switch to start position. Checked - OK - FIRE IN THE HOLE

It's alive .......

:rules


Shut it down shortly after to check oil level, the engine low oil level sign came on. I had added 2.5 liters/quarters of oil in the engine prior to startup. I added 1 more liter/quarter and restarted, low oil level didn't come. I ran the engine for 30 more seconds while checking for flow in the oil tank, the oil was moving alot every time I blipped the throttle. Added a little more oil to get to F, done.

Here's a little sneak peak I shot with my dig snapshot camera, video quality stinks LOL


http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii5/ ... 140012.flv


She came to life within seconds of cranking
Let the test and tune sequence begin HAHAHAHAHA .


Next on the list is syncronizing the carburators.


Found a few more things to modify before riding the sled.

I gotta add a small screw to bolt down the windscreen. When modifying the hood I had to cut corners to make stuff fit, now the windscreen need one more screw to be properly secured to the hood.

Gotta grind down a little on the tank covling at the front left where it comes close to the turbo heat shield. It's in contact with the heat shield and is pushed upwards because of that. I also have to add heat reflective tape on the tank covling in that area to prevent melting.

 

[TT]

 

[Rockmeister]

We are gonna have to throw an "IT'S ALIVE PARTY"!!!

 

[kinger]

Sounds like a muscle car in that vid!!! Cant wait to hear how you soiled yourself after the first run! LOL

Nice job way more time and creativity then I will ever have (or wife would let me have) so I live vicariously through you!