rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update April 22. - Installing meth injection failsafe solenoid.
Just got the failsafe bypass solenoid I ordered from Hurricane, thanks Dave
The solenoid works by recieving a signal from the failsafe unit in the meth injection kit when the failsafe controller sences too low meth flow. The failsafe signal triggers the solenoid and it opens up and let the full boost pressure flow to the waste gate thus dropping boost level to waste gate settings, in my system that would be 11.5-12.0 lbs or 0.8 bar.
Boost controller, install guide, failsafe solenoid and other parts ready for install.
Here's how the install went. Install a T on the line coming from the compressor. Cut a piece of line to go from the T to the IN nipple of the failsafe solenoid. Install the line coming from the wastegate to the OUT nipple of the failsafe solenoid. Cut a piece of line to go from the T to the IN nipple of the boost controller. Cut a piece of line to go from the OUT nipple of the boost controller to the top of the failsafe solenoid. Here's a few pics of the install.
Last I had to connect the failsafe solenoid to ground and to the green signal line coming from the failsafe controller.
Will turn up the boost this weekend. I shoot for 16-18 lbs for starters or as high as my clutches will allow me to go. Finally done building on the sled, who would have thought it would be late April before the build was done. I have a few more week to ride and tune the sled before the trails close down in May.
:exc:
Just got the failsafe bypass solenoid I ordered from Hurricane, thanks Dave
The solenoid works by recieving a signal from the failsafe unit in the meth injection kit when the failsafe controller sences too low meth flow. The failsafe signal triggers the solenoid and it opens up and let the full boost pressure flow to the waste gate thus dropping boost level to waste gate settings, in my system that would be 11.5-12.0 lbs or 0.8 bar.
Boost controller, install guide, failsafe solenoid and other parts ready for install.
Here's how the install went. Install a T on the line coming from the compressor. Cut a piece of line to go from the T to the IN nipple of the failsafe solenoid. Install the line coming from the wastegate to the OUT nipple of the failsafe solenoid. Cut a piece of line to go from the T to the IN nipple of the boost controller. Cut a piece of line to go from the OUT nipple of the boost controller to the top of the failsafe solenoid. Here's a few pics of the install.
Last I had to connect the failsafe solenoid to ground and to the green signal line coming from the failsafe controller.
Will turn up the boost this weekend. I shoot for 16-18 lbs for starters or as high as my clutches will allow me to go. Finally done building on the sled, who would have thought it would be late April before the build was done. I have a few more week to ride and tune the sled before the trails close down in May.
:exc:
Attachments
Done - LOL.
I can't wait to hear the report from 16-18lbs ride.
BOOST ON BUDDY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I can't wait to hear the report from 16-18lbs ride.
BOOST ON BUDDY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Well, done for now I guess. It will be tore apart again in late May for the next level in power and performance hahahahaha it never ends. Need to install hardened head studs to keep the head from lifting blowing out the gaskets running the sled at 22 lbs of boost. Have a few ideas on what to do with the engine.......
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update April 24-25. - Testriding continues
Prior to this weekend I loaded the supertips up to 93 grams and installed a Dalton 56/46 helix with Dalton red secondary spring av 6+1 or 70 deg twist. Earlier I ran into the limiter at 16 lbs of boost, I ran the exect same clutch setup last year with the MCX turbo kit installed, with my new custom front mount I ran into the limiter at 16 lbs of boost
With the new clutch setup and Meth injection failsafe solenoid installed I started testing the sled at higher boost this weekend. I have the meth set to activate pump at 8 lbs and full spray at 18 lbs. I run 4 nozzles. At first my sled ran pig rich at 10.2 AFR WOT misfireing badly, ran it at 16 lbs initially. I figured if I turned up the boost it shoud run leaner and it did. At 22 lbs of boost it ran around 10.5-10.7 still missing at WOT. I have also turned down the fuel pressure from 12 to 10 millimeter threads showing on the Malpassi fuel pressure regulator, it ran leaner around 11+ at WOT.
No matter what I do it will not run past 9500 rpms. I was still able to run 130+ MPH at WOT.
I adjusted down the boost to 12 lbs, now the sled ran pretty well at top only misfireing slightly, rpms went 10000-10100 at wot.
Any ideas on the misfireing are highly appreciated.
Prior to this weekend I loaded the supertips up to 93 grams and installed a Dalton 56/46 helix with Dalton red secondary spring av 6+1 or 70 deg twist. Earlier I ran into the limiter at 16 lbs of boost, I ran the exect same clutch setup last year with the MCX turbo kit installed, with my new custom front mount I ran into the limiter at 16 lbs of boost
With the new clutch setup and Meth injection failsafe solenoid installed I started testing the sled at higher boost this weekend. I have the meth set to activate pump at 8 lbs and full spray at 18 lbs. I run 4 nozzles. At first my sled ran pig rich at 10.2 AFR WOT misfireing badly, ran it at 16 lbs initially. I figured if I turned up the boost it shoud run leaner and it did. At 22 lbs of boost it ran around 10.5-10.7 still missing at WOT. I have also turned down the fuel pressure from 12 to 10 millimeter threads showing on the Malpassi fuel pressure regulator, it ran leaner around 11+ at WOT.
No matter what I do it will not run past 9500 rpms. I was still able to run 130+ MPH at WOT.
I adjusted down the boost to 12 lbs, now the sled ran pretty well at top only misfireing slightly, rpms went 10000-10100 at wot.
Any ideas on the misfireing are highly appreciated.
kinger
VIP Member
Too much meth or its coming on too early. Any help from Hurricane? What plugs are you running?
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Tighter spark plug gap. You may be blowing the spark out on high boost.
kinger
VIP Member
That is what I was thinking blowing the plug spark out. Meth at 8 psi with your lower compression is probably too early. I would start it at 12lbs. I know when meth enters the cylinder the drop in temps is immediate and drastic you may be blowing out the spark and it cant recover.
Meth rules for detonation prevention. When I was big in the subaru STI modifications meth will gain you like 80 AWHP through more boost, timing, and less fuel. A lot of people struggled with spark plug blow out through until they got it dialed in.
Meth rules for detonation prevention. When I was big in the subaru STI modifications meth will gain you like 80 AWHP through more boost, timing, and less fuel. A lot of people struggled with spark plug blow out through until they got it dialed in.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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kinger said:Too much meth or its coming on too early. Any help from Hurricane? What plugs are you running?
I have not asked Dave for help at this time. The meth starts spraying at 8 lbs, it's set as high as it gets, the controller have start points between 2 and 8 lbs and maks spray is adjustable from 8 to 25 lbs. I have now rigged the wireing to be able to unplug one system at a time. Fuel pump, WBO2 and Meth-injection now gets it's juice directly from the battery via a 30 AMP fuse and a two 30 AMP relays. I will run the sled at 14-15 lbs and then unplug the meth if the problem is not cured by removing electrical draw from the ignition circuitry.
I run CR10EKs at stock gap.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
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- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Srxspec said:Tighter spark plug gap. You may be blowing the spark out on high boost.
I'll look into that if the sled still misfires at wot. Will run the sled tomorrow on the lake
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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Thanks guys we'll know more tomorrow will spend the evening on the lake testing.
kinger
VIP Member
May need to have to go to stock plug for a little hotter, exact opposite of what you would do without meth but that is LOT of boost. I know 3 guys on 10 psi SC apex's that couldn't get the CR10EK's to work with the exact problems you had, stock BR9's and voila everything runs sweet.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- 7,355
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- 59
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- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Thanks kinger, I will change out the CR10EKs for the stock 9ers or Iridium 9ers next and I will adjust the spark plug gap to what TT said...
Here's the #s:
CR10EK's original gap - 0.022" - 0.025" or 0.558 mm - 0.635 mm.
CR9E's original gap - 0.030" or 0.762 mm.
Recommended gap with turbo at high boost - 0.018"-0.022" or 0.457 mm - 0.558 mm.
Any comment on the gap #s is highly appreciated.
Thanks TT for your help.
Here's the #s:
CR10EK's original gap - 0.022" - 0.025" or 0.558 mm - 0.635 mm.
CR9E's original gap - 0.030" or 0.762 mm.
Recommended gap with turbo at high boost - 0.018"-0.022" or 0.457 mm - 0.558 mm.
Any comment on the gap #s is highly appreciated.
Thanks TT for your help.
Any time Rxrider!!!! Did you get the fuel pressure tester guage?
Need for Speed 2
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I would guess a bad plug or plug blow-out, You can also add some timing with the meth if you have the option 8lbs should not be a problem ramping in, and on my apex i could max the meth and it never felt any different. EGTs would drop drastically but never couild feel the diff.24lbs on pump gas stock engine and its still going strong, I wish the new owner would chime in here to voice his knowledge now.
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Bad spark plug, bad plug boot (this was a fairly common problem on RX-1's), too much plug gap.
First just start the sled in the shop or outside when it's dark and open the hood and look for any arcing from the spark plug coils to the valve cover. Then I would try a fresh set of plugs, and finally tighten the gap after that.
First just start the sled in the shop or outside when it's dark and open the hood and look for any arcing from the spark plug coils to the valve cover. Then I would try a fresh set of plugs, and finally tighten the gap after that.
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