rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Pretty cool buddy
TT, get a better ic, that one sucks.
yamiboost
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2008
- Messages
- 459
- Location
- Labrador,
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 15 SR Viper MTX Hurricane 300hp kit
Fx Nytro Drag Sled 25psi + Boss Nos
rxrider said:TT - The nozzles are threaded, no weld on bungs included. It did not come with a tap.
Thats funny mine came with a tap they must of forgot to put it in.
yamiboost said:rxrider said:TT - The nozzles are threaded, no weld on bungs included. It did not come with a tap.
Thats funny mine came with a tap they must of forgot to put it in.
Jan was probably so excited when he RIPPED OPEN the box it fell out and he never noticed. What are those 1/8 NPT?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Hahaha I will look closer before installing the meth.. the tap are probably there
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update March 20. - Unpacking the Water-Meth kit, hardened head studs and MSD Launch Master.
Unpacking
My friends MSD kit.
My Meth-injection kit.
Time to start working on the meth injection install as soon as I have some time to spare hahaha soon I hope.
Unpacking
My friends MSD kit.
My Meth-injection kit.
Time to start working on the meth injection install as soon as I have some time to spare hahaha soon I hope.
water/meth control and launch control are all in one with an engine management system ;-)
you won't sleep to night Jan ;-) hehe
you won't sleep to night Jan ;-) hehe
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update March 20. - Removing cams. Installing ARP head studs.
I put my own plans on hold for a while to help out my friend getting his sled ready to ride, mine is rideable as is so I'm in no hurry installing head studs and meth injection at this time.
So on we went tearing my friends sled down yet again LOL.
Put the timing marks on the cams on the dots and shot some pics to have as backup when they're going back in again. This sled had a MCX turbo kit installed to it just after break in was done. The shop that did the install did a mistake when installing the cams, the trained eye should spot it right away, what is wrong in these pics?
Removing the cams. I'm taking it kinda seriously, as you can see, carefully unscrewing the cam caps This work is to be done by the book. I recommend reading the part on cam removal a few times before taking the cams off the first time.
The cams are out and placed exactly as they came out on the plate.
To be able to get the head cover off we had to take the throttle bodies off the intake.
Finally we got some snow, we got hit by a blizzard, pics shot outside my house when out for a break.
We contacted Dave HURRICANE with question wether it was possible to change out the stock head studs with ARP 10 mm studs one by one. He said that it was possible if you were able to get a grip on the studs to unscrew them off the block. Encouraged by his positive answere my friend went on fabricating a one off head stud pulling tool. Here's a pic of the first version of the tool.
Installed the tool and out came the first stock head stud. Installed the new ARP stud and torqued it to 35 ft/lb or 47 Nm. I like that the ARP studs takes an Allen wrench, much easier to install or remove the ARP studs
The tool works by first installing a nut down on the head stud to work as a counter nut, then install the tool itself on top of the stud and tighten it down hard enough that it fasten itself to the lock nut. The center part of the tool has threads in both ends where one end threads onto the head stud and the other end has threads for a bolt to add pressure on when tightened down hitting the head stud, finally there is a counter nut to lock the bolt down as well. The added pressure from the top bolt makes the tool grip the head stud and makes it possible to unscrew the tool and the head stud comes out with it.
Applying the tool to one of the head studs.
The stock head stud to the left, the ARPs to the right.
The stock head stud is slim compared to the 10 millimeter ARP studs.
We had to modify the tool by cutting the counter nut in half because of space constraints.
On the to bolts to the left we ran into problems and had to modify the tool for the third time to no avail, we couldn't get the front left bolt out of the block. We had no choise than to Loctite the tool onto the stud using blue Loctite, it was getting pretty late so we decided to leave it until the next day before making a new attempt to remove it.
I put my own plans on hold for a while to help out my friend getting his sled ready to ride, mine is rideable as is so I'm in no hurry installing head studs and meth injection at this time.
So on we went tearing my friends sled down yet again LOL.
Put the timing marks on the cams on the dots and shot some pics to have as backup when they're going back in again. This sled had a MCX turbo kit installed to it just after break in was done. The shop that did the install did a mistake when installing the cams, the trained eye should spot it right away, what is wrong in these pics?
Removing the cams. I'm taking it kinda seriously, as you can see, carefully unscrewing the cam caps This work is to be done by the book. I recommend reading the part on cam removal a few times before taking the cams off the first time.
The cams are out and placed exactly as they came out on the plate.
To be able to get the head cover off we had to take the throttle bodies off the intake.
Finally we got some snow, we got hit by a blizzard, pics shot outside my house when out for a break.
We contacted Dave HURRICANE with question wether it was possible to change out the stock head studs with ARP 10 mm studs one by one. He said that it was possible if you were able to get a grip on the studs to unscrew them off the block. Encouraged by his positive answere my friend went on fabricating a one off head stud pulling tool. Here's a pic of the first version of the tool.
Installed the tool and out came the first stock head stud. Installed the new ARP stud and torqued it to 35 ft/lb or 47 Nm. I like that the ARP studs takes an Allen wrench, much easier to install or remove the ARP studs
The tool works by first installing a nut down on the head stud to work as a counter nut, then install the tool itself on top of the stud and tighten it down hard enough that it fasten itself to the lock nut. The center part of the tool has threads in both ends where one end threads onto the head stud and the other end has threads for a bolt to add pressure on when tightened down hitting the head stud, finally there is a counter nut to lock the bolt down as well. The added pressure from the top bolt makes the tool grip the head stud and makes it possible to unscrew the tool and the head stud comes out with it.
Applying the tool to one of the head studs.
The stock head stud to the left, the ARPs to the right.
The stock head stud is slim compared to the 10 millimeter ARP studs.
We had to modify the tool by cutting the counter nut in half because of space constraints.
On the to bolts to the left we ran into problems and had to modify the tool for the third time to no avail, we couldn't get the front left bolt out of the block. We had no choise than to Loctite the tool onto the stud using blue Loctite, it was getting pretty late so we decided to leave it until the next day before making a new attempt to remove it.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update March 21. - Installing ARP head studs continued.
Last night we added Loctite on the stud pulling tool. Today we tried to remove the stud and it worked like a charm
Me out in the Turbo Garage, happy that I were able to remove the stud.
Me and my friend (to the left) working on changing out the head stud with ARP studs. Teamwork at it's best, friends working together on a turbo sled hahaha
Still a pair of happy campers....
Until the next bolt gave us the exact same grief as the previous bolt.... out with the Locktite ..... and then we went to our friend Kjell-Vidar's 40th anniversary, a party we wouldn't miss for the world. Sunday afternoon we removed the last 3 stock bolts and replaced them with ARPs. When installing the ARP's we used engine oil on all threads an meeting surfaces. My friend torqued the nuts to 45 ft/lb or 61 Nm. We will let it sit for a while before torking the nuts to 45/61 yet another time, then it's assembly time
Last night we added Loctite on the stud pulling tool. Today we tried to remove the stud and it worked like a charm
Me out in the Turbo Garage, happy that I were able to remove the stud.
Me and my friend (to the left) working on changing out the head stud with ARP studs. Teamwork at it's best, friends working together on a turbo sled hahaha
Still a pair of happy campers....
Until the next bolt gave us the exact same grief as the previous bolt.... out with the Locktite ..... and then we went to our friend Kjell-Vidar's 40th anniversary, a party we wouldn't miss for the world. Sunday afternoon we removed the last 3 stock bolts and replaced them with ARPs. When installing the ARP's we used engine oil on all threads an meeting surfaces. My friend torqued the nuts to 45 ft/lb or 61 Nm. We will let it sit for a while before torking the nuts to 45/61 yet another time, then it's assembly time
kinger
VIP Member
rxrider are you wearing a onesy (pronounced one-ze, like a babies zip up clothes for a newborn) LOL
As your aware be very careful on the 45ft-lbs that is near the breaking point for the block then you would have a major problem!
As your aware be very careful on the 45ft-lbs that is near the breaking point for the block then you would have a major problem!
rx1 fern
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
what size turbo is that..
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
No - hahahaha it's what I wear underneat the bibs when out riding. Garage was at summer temps and it felt pretty comfy not wearing pants hahahaha I will wear proper pants next time, I promise
It's a Garrett GT2860RS
It's a Garrett GT2860RS
aja636
Lifetime Member
I just thought you were doing the no-pants-dance about getting your fancy parts in from hurricane...
That is the correct wrencing outfit buddy
Have you experienced any fuel pick up problems with the REV gast tank going downhill with less than half tank? There was a post on SW were a guy had some problems. He changed out the REV tank with a RT tank with dual fuel pickup.
Have you experienced any fuel pick up problems with the REV gast tank going downhill with less than half tank? There was a post on SW were a guy had some problems. He changed out the REV tank with a RT tank with dual fuel pickup.
yamiboost
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2008
- Messages
- 459
- Location
- Labrador,
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 15 SR Viper MTX Hurricane 300hp kit
Fx Nytro Drag Sled 25psi + Boss Nos
Nice work rxrider when we tried to change out my stock studs for arp's we had a while trying to do what you have done and had no luck had to pull the head.
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