rxrider's Turbo Garage - pics back, will continue

[rxrider]

04rxw10 - If you send it over, pays for parts and working hours I will gladly make it whatever you want it

 

[rxrider]

Update October 31. - Greasing up jack- and driveshaft bearings. - Installing fuel pump and bracket. Installing oil tank and hoses. Installing coolant tank and hoses. Installing aluminum mounting blocks and oillite bushing for the steering shaft. Installing electrical wireing.


This week I have been doing a lot of install work, minor stuff but all has to go back in anyway. I started out by greasing up the drive- and jackshaft bearings.

On the jack shaft bearing I had to remove the C-clip then I gently removed the bearing cover with a small flat screwdriver. Bearing still had grease in it, what was left looked and felt like new. I run dark grey Exxon/Esso moly lube in my bearings. No need to clean out the old grease so I just added more and reinstalled the bearing cover and C-clip.

On the driveshaft bearing I had to remove the speedo splined wheel, the bearing cup and speedo pickup to get to the bearing. I removed the bearing cover and like in the jackshaft bearing the grease was still good, it was still a little grease left, no need to clean it as the grease was still good. I added new grease to it and reinstalled everything.

Installing fuel pressure regulator and figuring out a way to make up a new install bracket for the fuel pump. Removed the remains of the broken MCX fuel pump mounting bracket.

What a mess. Wireing and hoses all over the place, time to start routing wireing and hoses

Preparing for install of steering shaft and new aluminum mounting blocks with oillite bushings.

Straightened out the cableworks.... it's a mess but it's getting better

Installed and torked down a new bolt holding the magneto to the crankshaft. Torked it to 130 Nm and installed the plastic cap covering the bolt hole.

I made a new mounting bracket for the fuel pump from the remainings of the old MCX mounting bracket and installed the fuel pump.

Charging the battery. Battery was still at 2/3 power after sitting since early May. The small R1 YTZ10S battery keeps it's charge very well

Installing the Innovate LC-1 AFR (Wide Band O2) computer to the frame.

Installed a missing spring on the chocke lever that makes the lever return when choke is set to the off position.

Time to install the new aluminum mouting block and oilite busings for the steering shaft. It's the one in the front of the sled that is replaced, later both blocks and bushings on the steering column will be replaced as well. I'll have to say that there is absolutely no play with the new stuff installed, it's darn tight

Here's a pic of the old mounting block.

Here's the new one installed.

One of the coolant hose clamps broke.

I replaced it with a real hose clamp.

Next I started the install of the oil tank and coolant tank and all hosing and clamps that goes with it.

Then my attention went on to the electrical wireing.

I have the coolant hoses, oil hoses, electrical wireing, fuel return line, turbo oil line and meth line going to the IC routed

On tear down I had to cut a few electrical wires to get parts off the sled. Today I added couplings where I had cut the wires to make it easier next time I have to take stuff off the sled. When adding couplers I also soldered the wire to the coupler to make sure it stays. I added electrical insulation tape on the couplers to make sure I won't run into problems short circuiting.

After the electrical work I poured engine oil into the engine. I added 2 liters or 2 quarters of Yamalube 0-30 4stroke sled engine oil into the oil tank. Then I added 0.5 liter or 1/2 quarter into the cylinder head to fill up the bottom of the engine around the oil pump pick up. The remaining oil will be added after the initial fire up. Before fireing up the engine I will rotate the engine by hand to make sure oil poured into the head haven't leaked into the combustion chamers creating a hydrolock condition, not good. Better finding out rotating by hand than ruin the motor by cranking it then locking it up....... huhuuujhhhhhh bad thing .-(

Next electrical work will be to install the relay swithes that feeds power to the meth injection system and fuel pump.

:exc:

 

[TT]

Good to see that the old baby is getting done before snow starts flying buddy

Have you guys started the work on OSknudsen sled? Please post some pics of that build if you have the time .

 

[rxrider]

Hi buddy

No he has been moose hunting for the last month, when done he went straight to work at 330 for a week on stand-by duty. I guess he will start working on his sled this coming week when he comes off duty.

I will take pics of his sled and post them here.

rxrider

 

[mikaz]

I have read 90 percent of this thread over the last few days, I'm highly impressed at your great work! This is giving me inspiration to do some work to my RX1 before the snow flies this winter.

 

[rxrider]

Thanks mikaz - what you just said is what motivates me to publish my work in this thread Thanks a lot.

Just go ahead, it's not that hard. Get hold of the Service Manual and ask questions if you want or need to, I'll help you the best I can

 

[rxrider]

Update November 4. - Installing carbs. Routing electrical wires. Installing relays for fuel pump and meth injection kit.


Installed the carb rack. Hooked up coolant and fuel hoses. Hooked up carb heating, TPS and TORS wires.

Before installing the relays for fuel pump and Meth injection kit I routed the electrical wirering going in and out of the relays. I have one relay hooked up to the fuel pump and another one hooked up to the meth injection kit. Both takes power directly from the battery lead over a 30AMP fuse. Both relays are activated when the ignition key is in the ON position.

That was about what I could do for now. I have got the turbo header TIG-welded, now it's out for resurfacing as the mouting surface was warped. My IC is also out for TIG-welding of the old mounting holes for the meth injection nozzles. I had the nozzles installed underneat the IC, I'm moving them up on top of the IC to get the nozzles in the best possible position in the plenum.



My friend Odd Steffen has now joined me working on his sled here at the Turbo Garage. While I'm waiting for parts to get ready for install I'm helping out my friend tearing apart his sled once more. He's going to raise compresion removing the two stacked gaskets he had installed replacing it with a single gasket. We're also going to adjust valve clearance and degree in his cam shafts.

Here's a few pics of my friends sled.

Finally we got to the bottom of it, the cylinder head removed from the sled.

We placed a support under the Deltabox frame piece to keep it up ahead of the engine. It made it possible for us to remove the cylinderhead without have to remove the D-frame from the sled.

My friend is measuring valve clearance.

6 valve shims have to be ordered to get valve clearance within spec.

 

[04rxw10]

Any more progress?? Been to quite here.

 

[rxrider]

There have been progress but I haven't got the time to update the thread lately.

It's my friends Attak that have got the attention for the last week.

My IC and Exhaust header is still out for welding and surface work, it's a few weeks now. I really hope to have it done some day this week.

I will try to find the time to upload the pics taken since last post and do the write up

 

[Ski-Dooin' it]

did you ever figure out what on earth was causing your lack of reving last season? Im having a similar issue and wondering if you got it resolved?

 

[rxrider]

No update on my project so far, parts are still out for surfacing and welding, it's been two weeks now, not good, I might as well shipped the parts overseas LOL well hope to get them back this week..... I hope so....


Over to something postive... my friend is making progress, with my help he's got a lot done while I'm still waiting to get my parts back.

Here's a few pics taken from his project.
He have adjusted valve clearance, mounting the cam and caps for yet another round of measuring.

The valve clearance adjustment done, here's a pic of the valves and combustion chamber.

Cylinder head back on the engine.

Bolts, nuts and washers lubed with moly lubed and mounted, the cylinder headed torked down to spec. He runs ARP studs, tork spec is 61Nm. After final tork he loosened all nuts in sequence one at a time a 1/4 turn then torked them up to final spec of 61Nm, all nuts went past the quarter turn when tighten to final spec.

It's hard waiting around to have work done and there's nothing to do to speed up the process, it's killing me.


Just talked to the welder he was out of the correct type of TIG weld line for the job, he hope to have it in this afternoon. good news.


Nothing done with my header, bad news from the machine shop :-((((((((

 

[rxrider]

did you ever figure out what on earth was causing your lack of reving last season? Im having a similar issue and wondering if you got it resolved?

Turbo had lost to of the bolts holding it to the header and half the gasket was blown out. Turbo header had lost 6 out of 8 bolts and part of the gasket was blown. Header had a 1" long hairline crack in one of the tubes. My AFRs was in the low 11s, shoud have been 12.0-12.5. That's about it.

Problems have been fixed, haven't run it yet, no snow to ride.

 

[rxrider]

Norway's largest snowmobile show are held downtown at a indoor sports arena. The big 5 (we also have Lynx snowmobiles here in Europe) were all present. The show continues tomorrow at noon.

I chose to post the pics and a video clip here as this is somewhat related to what the Turbo Garage is, the video shows a one off sled made by the owner in his own turbo garage back at his home in Sweden.

Here's a few pics and a video from the show.


A few pics from the Yamaha stand. My friends at Midt-Finnmark Motor AS had the best stand by far, and the most people shopping around from what I could tell during the day.

FX Nytro XTX

FX Nytro SE

RS Venture GT

A new grass drag to be feared by the competition, plan is to hit the grass next season. The sled is a 06 Apex custom built turbo system, stock customized fram, WhalBros skid, stock plastics, all Yamaha stock parts on the body, even the A-arms and skis. Power is 500+ HP, 600+ HP on N20. The builder, Niclas Ottoson, refused to comment on my questions on engine setup, and I respect him for that. All his skills is put in there to make the power the sled does, and I didn't expect him to give his secrets away What he told me is that he runs a stand-alone EFI system and ignition, the spark is powered using coils made by MSD. Weight is 260 kilograms or 572 lbs including rider.

To the left we have Bjørn-Ivar Masternes and his son, Bjørn-Ivar is the 2009 Norwegian champion in the class Open Fuel Unlimited 660 ft on snow. To the left we have Niclas Ottoson the builder of the sled at this show and the sled Bjørn-Ivar rode at the championships last season.

Niclas and his grass sled.

Custom made idlers to go with the WahlBros skid. In Scandinavia we also have to run a cage in the rear to catch any studs flying off the track.

Niclas runs a STM Rage VIII primary clutch and a Fast secondary clutch.

All programming is done from a mini laptop connected to the sled by USB bus.

Niclas is a single guy, no girlfriend at the moment. My friends at the local Yamaha dealership had made up this T-shirt for him to wear at the show, for all girls and women to see LOL

Some data on the sled for the Scandinavian visitor to read. Don't have to translate, will do later on.

Jan Ole Benjaminsen, one of the owners of Midt-Finnmark Motor AS and chief of mechanics, he runs the garage, service, spare parts and warranties.

The usual Yamaha girl working on the stand

The video clip of Niclas sled, testing stutter function at the show.




Great show as always, thanks to Porsanger Sneskuterklubb (Porsanger Snowmobile Club) Yes, I'm a member of the club. I ask anyone local reading this to join the Porsanger Sneskuterklubb, we need as many members as possible, remember our power is solely by the numbers of members when we present our case in front of the government officials.

Sledding season has officially started
Happy sledding to all.

rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen

 

[BOUNTYHUNTER]

HEY JAN....You have 69,604 Views on your sled.........WOW

 

[rxrider]

Update November 27. - Installling meth injection nozzles and meth lines. Installing vacuum/pressure lines. Routing fuel lines and preparing for auxillary fuel tank in the nose.


My intercooler is finally back from welding. The old holes underneat the intercooler have been plugged and welded.

I had a 2 mm aluminum plate welded to the top of the IC to have more thickness when cutting threads for the meth injector nozzles. Initial measuring and drilling done.

Threads cut and nozzles mounted. I used blue loctite on the nozzle threads and tightened them until they bottomed out against the plate I had welded to the top of the IC.

Here's what it looks like from the inside of the IC. Nozzles are pretty much flush with the inside surface of the IC plenum.

Nozzle bodies threaded onto the nozzles. I added thread tape to the nozzles before mounting the nozzle body and thightened them down. I got all 4 nicely lined up with the intake couplers facing backwards.

I also installed fuel lines and routed them from the fuel pressure regulator return outlet and from the fuel pump inlet, both fuel lines are supposed to be connected to a auxillary fuel tank that is going to be installed up in the nose cone. The aux tank is supposed to take care of the dreaded fuel cut running a REV fuel tank. Below a certain fuel level the REV tank fuel pickup starts sucking air, which is BAD on the RX-1 but total loss on an Apex when going vertical. The RX-1 gives a warning that it's running out of fuel (float bowls), the Apex just is loosing power big time just before running out of fuel NOT GOOD.

Finally I installed pressure/vacuum lines going from the IC to the carbs and fuel pressure regulator.

My Fiends Attak.
Some work done on my friends Attak. Adjusting cam timing.
The before measurements.

The after measurements. Cam timing set.

We made a 0.8 millimeter oil line restrictor for the Attak as it was blowing some oil thru the turbo bearings and into the charge tube. We used my invention using a MIG welder thread feeder tip, cut a groove for a flat screwdriver and cut the feeder tip in half leaving the threads. Then we added thread tape to it and screwed it into the AN coupler down at the oil pressure sensor.

More work will be done today... time leave for the Turbo Garage