ust421
Pro
Would a person be able to do the headshim without pulling the motor?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Yes it's possible. You will have to loosen the Delta Box frame part and raise it up quite a bit to be able to pull the head.
I have a lot of pics posted in this thread, take a look at the index at page 1 and you will find it. Look for Cylinder head, valve clearance, etc. it's all in this thread somewhere
I have a lot of pics posted in this thread, take a look at the index at page 1 and you will find it. Look for Cylinder head, valve clearance, etc. it's all in this thread somewhere
Lot's of projects.Does everyone in norway have boost,lol
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
We're close to MCXpress LOL
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
SEASON 2011-2012
Update - March 14 - Installing Ski-Doo 1200 MCX300.
Teardown is almost done. I will document the essential parts of the install. This build includes installing a head spacer to reduce compression.
Cylinder head cover and stock intake removed.
Opening the box from MCXpress
The stock plastic intake parts are replaced by aluminum ones.
The cam shaft assembly are automotive style. Note the tool that holds the cam shafts in top dead center position.
The cam shaft removed from the cylinder head.
The new head shim has been installed, the head is back on, the cam shaft assembly are in.
The crank shaft has been verified to be in top dead center for the #1 cylinder.
The cam shaft tool is making the cam shaft install very easy. It's impossible for the cams to move out of position with the tool applied.
The cam gears perfectly aligned.
Unlike the Yamaha engines the Rotax engine cam chain drives one one of the cam shafts. The other cam shaft is driven directly by the first one.
To gain access to the magneto cover we had to remove the engine from the frame.
The oil return line is installed to the magneto cover.
The cylinder head cover and the new intake has been installed.
Insulating the water pump, coolant lines and oil lines underneat the exhaust pipe.
The throttle body have to be rotated 180 degree to fit, no problem, it works the same both ways.
Fuel and coolant hoses installed at the rear of the engine.
The exhaust header is in. It has been heavily insulated with exhaust wrap material.
The turbo is in.
The engine is back in the frame. The oil return line from the turbo attached.
The new exhaust silencer installed.
Intercooler installed and charge tubes installed.
Throttle body install finished.
The last we did was changing out the TRA with a STM Rage 4 clutch to cope with the 300+ HP Rotax engine pumps out.
We did not shoot any pics of the STM Rage 4 install.
Update - March 19 - Installing Carrillo Rods and JE 10:1 Pistons in Apex MCX330.
I was not able to take the pics I wanted of the last Carrillo install. Sorry about that.
More to come..... stay tuned.
Finally - I'm back.
I know it's been a while. The work is done a long time ago. I have shot the pics. We have been reinventing the house for the last year which have given me little time here on TY.
But here we go.
Started the teardown by removing the engine from the frame. Disassembled the cylinder head. All parts are laid out exactly the way they came out of the engine, maked it much easier on the assembly.
Cylinder head, bolts, cam shafts, bolts, cam shaft cups, buckets and valve shims on the table ready to be reassembled.
Cam shafts and cam shaft cups.
Cylinder head, valve buckets and shims.
Motor on the work bench ready for tear down. I'm changing out the pistons and rods for a set of 10:1 JE's and a set of Carrillo rods.
The oil pan underneat the engine has been removed, tha oil pump as well.
The oil pump and oil pan.
The bottom half of the mono block has been removed, leaving the crank and connection rods open for removal.
The stock connection rods and pistons.
The upper part of the mono block.
The JE's are ready to go in.
The JE's and the Carrillo's.
The old and the new cylinder head bolts. New 10 mm. APR bolts are going in.
The pistons and connection rods are assembled.
Nothing but the best.
The cylinder walls have been lubricated well with Yamalube 0-w30 oil. Never be shy on assebly lube, it's all the lube the engine will get for the first 20 seconds of operation, until the oil pump starts pumping up the oil pressure. I cannot say this often enough, lube all parts on the connecting surfaces.
Piston rings assebled, the pistons and rods are ready to be installed into the cylinders.
Pistons and rods installed. When installing piston rings, read the install guide carefully, even the smallest mistake when installing the oil dividing rings can cause excessive oil useage or even engine break down.
The same goes for the rods, read the install guide carefully, you will need a tool able to measure bolt stretch. Tork down one bolt until you get the proper bolt stretch, record what tork it took, tork all bolts to this tork number. Follow the guidance on how to apply the lube to all surfaces and threads, use Carrillo lube always.
The bottom half has been assembled. I've changed out all O-rings with new ones on the oil pump assembly.
New gasket has been installed on the oil pan lid. Cylinder head bolt has been replaced with the APR's. I used blue Loctite on the bolt thread going into the block to keep them from turning when torking down the cylinder head. The ARP's was torked finger tight.
With the bottom half done, it's time to start installing a new head gasket and the cylinder head.
The motor is done.
The boost and fuel maps together with the water-meth system has been tuned to perfection.
Sled is running 10:1 compression, spraying water-meth, at 22 lbs of boost (1.5 BAR), on premium pump fuel (98 RON) in Norway. It has been held to the bar for more than a 1000 yards running flawlessly.
All problems we had with the sled have now been fixed thanks to the owners determination of having it running at full capacity, it now does. The gremlins have been busted or blown away by the boost it now produces.
More to come at rxrider's turbo garage
Update - March 14 - Installing Ski-Doo 1200 MCX300.
Teardown is almost done. I will document the essential parts of the install. This build includes installing a head spacer to reduce compression.
Cylinder head cover and stock intake removed.
Opening the box from MCXpress
The stock plastic intake parts are replaced by aluminum ones.
The cam shaft assembly are automotive style. Note the tool that holds the cam shafts in top dead center position.
The cam shaft removed from the cylinder head.
The new head shim has been installed, the head is back on, the cam shaft assembly are in.
The crank shaft has been verified to be in top dead center for the #1 cylinder.
The cam shaft tool is making the cam shaft install very easy. It's impossible for the cams to move out of position with the tool applied.
The cam gears perfectly aligned.
Unlike the Yamaha engines the Rotax engine cam chain drives one one of the cam shafts. The other cam shaft is driven directly by the first one.
To gain access to the magneto cover we had to remove the engine from the frame.
The oil return line is installed to the magneto cover.
The cylinder head cover and the new intake has been installed.
Insulating the water pump, coolant lines and oil lines underneat the exhaust pipe.
The throttle body have to be rotated 180 degree to fit, no problem, it works the same both ways.
Fuel and coolant hoses installed at the rear of the engine.
The exhaust header is in. It has been heavily insulated with exhaust wrap material.
The turbo is in.
The engine is back in the frame. The oil return line from the turbo attached.
The new exhaust silencer installed.
Intercooler installed and charge tubes installed.
Throttle body install finished.
The last we did was changing out the TRA with a STM Rage 4 clutch to cope with the 300+ HP Rotax engine pumps out.
We did not shoot any pics of the STM Rage 4 install.
Update - March 19 - Installing Carrillo Rods and JE 10:1 Pistons in Apex MCX330.
I was not able to take the pics I wanted of the last Carrillo install. Sorry about that.
More to come..... stay tuned.
Finally - I'm back.
I know it's been a while. The work is done a long time ago. I have shot the pics. We have been reinventing the house for the last year which have given me little time here on TY.
But here we go.
Started the teardown by removing the engine from the frame. Disassembled the cylinder head. All parts are laid out exactly the way they came out of the engine, maked it much easier on the assembly.
Cylinder head, bolts, cam shafts, bolts, cam shaft cups, buckets and valve shims on the table ready to be reassembled.
Cam shafts and cam shaft cups.
Cylinder head, valve buckets and shims.
Motor on the work bench ready for tear down. I'm changing out the pistons and rods for a set of 10:1 JE's and a set of Carrillo rods.
The oil pan underneat the engine has been removed, tha oil pump as well.
The oil pump and oil pan.
The bottom half of the mono block has been removed, leaving the crank and connection rods open for removal.
The stock connection rods and pistons.
The upper part of the mono block.
The JE's are ready to go in.
The JE's and the Carrillo's.
The old and the new cylinder head bolts. New 10 mm. APR bolts are going in.
The pistons and connection rods are assembled.
Nothing but the best.
The cylinder walls have been lubricated well with Yamalube 0-w30 oil. Never be shy on assebly lube, it's all the lube the engine will get for the first 20 seconds of operation, until the oil pump starts pumping up the oil pressure. I cannot say this often enough, lube all parts on the connecting surfaces.
Piston rings assebled, the pistons and rods are ready to be installed into the cylinders.
Pistons and rods installed. When installing piston rings, read the install guide carefully, even the smallest mistake when installing the oil dividing rings can cause excessive oil useage or even engine break down.
The same goes for the rods, read the install guide carefully, you will need a tool able to measure bolt stretch. Tork down one bolt until you get the proper bolt stretch, record what tork it took, tork all bolts to this tork number. Follow the guidance on how to apply the lube to all surfaces and threads, use Carrillo lube always.
The bottom half has been assembled. I've changed out all O-rings with new ones on the oil pump assembly.
New gasket has been installed on the oil pan lid. Cylinder head bolt has been replaced with the APR's. I used blue Loctite on the bolt thread going into the block to keep them from turning when torking down the cylinder head. The ARP's was torked finger tight.
With the bottom half done, it's time to start installing a new head gasket and the cylinder head.
The motor is done.
The boost and fuel maps together with the water-meth system has been tuned to perfection.
Sled is running 10:1 compression, spraying water-meth, at 22 lbs of boost (1.5 BAR), on premium pump fuel (98 RON) in Norway. It has been held to the bar for more than a 1000 yards running flawlessly.
All problems we had with the sled have now been fixed thanks to the owners determination of having it running at full capacity, it now does. The gremlins have been busted or blown away by the boost it now produces.
More to come at rxrider's turbo garage
Sabaton
Newbie
Good luck! and post as many pics as possible!
Tarzan
TY 4 Stroke Guru
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2009
- Messages
- 861
- Age
- 50
- Location
- Norway
- Website
- www.youtube.com
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- Yamaha Nytro and SideWinder BTX
This i must say is the best documented tread ever made on a forum.
Keep up the nice work Jan.
Keep up the nice work Jan.
Tarzan
TY 4 Stroke Guru
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2009
- Messages
- 861
- Age
- 50
- Location
- Norway
- Website
- www.youtube.com
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- Yamaha Nytro and SideWinder BTX
Whats up? Ore did you make a tread in a Skidoo forum?rxrider said:
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
I'm swamped up with work and building on my house. Not enough time to keep up with the thread so far. I will post when I get some free time.
kinger
VIP Member
Hey rxrider - looking forward to seeing more turbo garage this year!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Hi kinger - It's still crazy around here, the outside of the house is done and painted, we have also insulated the floors, walls and roof. These days the carpenters are tearing the inside of the house to pieces, installing a new kitchen, bathrooms, heated floors and stuff.... no money for my sleds :-( but the house will be nice when done.
I will finish posting the work I did winter 2012... someday soon I hope. As you know I have not been around here much the last year, now you know why.
Talk to you later.
I will finish posting the work I did winter 2012... someday soon I hope. As you know I have not been around here much the last year, now you know why.
Talk to you later.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Post on strengthening Apex engine on page 65 - updated.
Post on building Ski-Doo 1200 - 300+ HP - updated.
Post on strengthening Apex engine on page 66 - updated.
Reinventing our house is almost done - I'm back - More to come.
Post on building Ski-Doo 1200 - 300+ HP - updated.
Post on strengthening Apex engine on page 66 - updated.
Reinventing our house is almost done - I'm back
- More to come.
Tarzan
TY 4 Stroke Guru
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2009
- Messages
- 861
- Age
- 50
- Location
- Norway
- Website
- www.youtube.com
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- Yamaha Nytro and SideWinder BTX
Great to have you back,i love this site!
Great job you does
Great job you does
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Thanks Tarzan
- Now I have some catching up to do on rxrider's season 2011/2012 fun ride thread - Maine Ride 2012.
- Now I have some catching up to do on rxrider's season 2011/2012 fun ride thread - Maine Ride 2012.
kinger
VIP Member
Welcome back!!! I'm still working on my new house but sled still gets some love
Did you have the block diamond honed before putting in new pistons and rings? I heard if you dont do this it will never seal and burn oil like a sive. That was my hesitation of swapping pistons the diamond hone is expensive and then you usually have to have it replated with the plating on the cylinder walls. Would love it if you coudl just swap and go but every builder I talked to said no, so that is how I decided on a head shim vs LC pistons. Just curious what you did and how it worked out.
Throw up some picts of the house work!
Did you have the block diamond honed before putting in new pistons and rings? I heard if you dont do this it will never seal and burn oil like a sive. That was my hesitation of swapping pistons the diamond hone is expensive and then you usually have to have it replated with the plating on the cylinder walls. Would love it if you coudl just swap and go but every builder I talked to said no, so that is how I decided on a head shim vs LC pistons. Just curious what you did and how it worked out.
Throw up some picts of the house work!
