rxrider's Turbo Garage - pics back, will continue

[rxrider]

Oil Return line from the turbo could be clogged, or you need a smaller restrictor.
What size restrictor do you run?

 

[rxrider]

Update - February 23. - Engine Rebuild, Apex 2006, Custom turbo system.

The sled has been Out of service since last season due to cross pin failure.
Crosspin failed, piston broke free from the Carrillo rod, destroying the rod, the piston and cracked a big lump on the top of #4 cylinder.
The upper half of the Block was a total Write off.
I ran 10:1 Wiseco pistons With Stock head gasket, thickness 0.027"
I've learnt from Dave Marshall at Hurricane racing that the squish band gets too narrow With the Stock gasket, he recommends 0.036".
I fear that the pistons have touched the head occationally stressing the cross pin until it finally broke.

Luckily I got a used engine from a friend of mine With only 1500 miles on it, thanks buddy
I have one New Carrillo rod on order from Hurricane Racing in Canada, thanks Dave for helping me out getting hold of one rod from Carrillo.
I also have a New 0.036" Cometic gasket on order from Hurricane, and a New AEM Electronic boost Controller and Meter.
I have all gaskets and o-rings on order from my local Yamaha Dealer, Midt-Finnmark Motor AS.

Parts will most likely arrive tomorrow

I will document the build With pics and a Write-up.

More to come

 

[rxrider]

Update - February 24. - Engine Rebuild, Apex 2006, Custom turbo system.


Got parts, a New 0.036" Cometic Head Gasket, a New Carrillo rod, and a AEM Boost Meter (no boost Controller, I was wrong)

I will start working on the engine someday this week.

More to come.....

 

[rxrider]

Update - March 6. - Engine Rebuild, Apex 2006, Custom turbo system, all parts are in.

I have now got all parts needed to start the Apex engine rebuild.
Got the last parts in, gasket kit for the entire engine.
The cylinder head has all five valves bent on the #4 cylinder.
Luckily I have 5 valves from a RX-1 cylinder head, they are the same partnumbers as the Apex

All parts are on the table, old and New. I need a clean up before I start working on the engine.

I got a motor from a good friend of mine. It has only 1600 kilometers or 1000 miles on it.
He removed the cylinder head and used it in his 440 HP Apex.
The cylinder head got machined and ported and went in the big HP machine.
I got it at a bargain price as he does no longer need the rest of the Block.

I removed all parts not needed for the rebuild.
As the New engine is barely used I will use all parts possible from that engine.

I will only use the cylinder head and parts missing on the New engine.
The New engine will be torn apart to have have Carrillo rods and Wiseco 10:1 pistons installed.
The Stock 0.027" head gasket will be replaced With a New 0.036" Cometic head gasket, recommended by Dave Marshall at Hurricane Performance.
The Stock head gasket is to thin leaving too narrow squish band leading to failing piston cross pins.
I had that happen both my turbo sleds running 10:1 pistons With Stock head gaskets.

I will start the tear Down of the New engine this afternoon.

 

[yamahamm]

Isbjørn damn i want a beer now

 

[rxrider]

It's Nice having a beer when working, but not 5 when working on engine interneals LOL
The Isbjørn or Polar Bear beer is very good, damn now I want beer, and it's Sunday morning hahahahaha

 

[rxrider]

Update - March 7. - Engine Rebuild, Apex 2006, Custom turbo system, Engine teardown.


I bought the engine without the cylinder head.
First I removed the oil filter using a oil filter removal tool.

I removed the Stock head studs.
Here seen besides the New ARP 10 millimeter hardened head studs.

I have a set of solid motor Mounts, I'm debating myself wheter to install them?

Removed the magneto cover.

Removed the clutch side cover.

Before installing the ARP head studs I cleaned the cylinder surface.

I added Blue LocTite to the ARP studs and threaded them into the Cylinder Block.

Installed all the ARP studs into the cylinder head and tightened them to 20 Nm.

I installed the ARP studs at this time for two reasons.
1. to give the LocTite at least 24 hours to harden before tighten Down the cylinder head
2. to make it easier to work on the engine, With the studs in Place the engine is able to stand on the studs without damaging the cam Chain and the cam Chain guide.

With the ARP studs installed I turned the engine upside Down.

The engine was hurt while riding.
The rider crashed into a rock and shut Down the engine right away after hitting the rock, even before the oil pressure warning came on.

Anyway the oil pan lid is going to changed out for a New one.

Next I changed out the 90 degree bend going out from the water pump With a New one.
I always change this part With New.
I have seen them fail a few times With loss of cooloant as the result.
Not funny when far from home out in the wilderness.

Removed the water pump.

Next is removing the oil pump.

Oil pump removed.

Here's the way I organize all bolts in the engine.
It makes it way easier and a lot faster on Assembly.
On removal I use a marker and mark where the bolts are on the covers.
I mark one bolt as #1, #2 and the last one.
I have made a cardboard piece where I have punched holes and numbered it.
It makes both tear Down and Assembly a lot easier

Now I have another idea, I will add the tork spec for each of the bolts on a New piece of cardboard.
That will make the install even easier. It will be the last time I have to look up the tork specs


A pic of the oil pump/water pump gear.
To make sure I install it correctly.

To be continued ....

 

[rxrider]

Continued .........

Disconnecting the con rods from the crank shaft.

Removed the crank shaft and the bottom half of the Block.

Removed the pistons.

Cleaned the surfaces on the Block halves.
The engine is ready to be reassembled.
Got beer

I'm chainging one of the Carrillo's and all Wiseco pistons With a New set of Wiseco's and New rings.
The old pistons will be removed NeXT.

The Carrillo rods are ready for piston install.
I have reused the rod bearings from the Stock rods I removed earlier.
Make sure you install the bearings the way they came out of the Stock rods.
The bearings are matched for each position on the crank.

New Wiseco 10:1 pistons with new rings are going in.

When assenbling the engine make sure that the water/oil pump Chain is on the sprocket on the clutch shaft, it's not in this Picture.

Next time I will cover the engine Assembly.
I will try to get all details covered on photo and in text.

 

[rxrider]

Update - March 8. - Engine Rebuild, Apex 2006, Installing pistons and crankshaft.


I placed the cylinder Block on it's side for easy Access when cleaning the cylinders.

I removed the rings from the old Wiseco pistons, the Three that did not get hurt when the engine broke Down.
I'm keeping them as spares, they are in Perfect working order.
I have a Complete set of Wiseco's (used) that are going in my motor, With New rings of course.

Installed the pistons on the Carrillo con rods. Make sure you lube the bearing inside the con rod eye With engine oil before assmbly.

Cleaning the cylinders With a Cotton rag.

Make sure you lube the cylinder walls well with engine oil before installing the pistons.

Next was installing the piston rings.
The rings are installed in a certain order.
Top compression ring is on top
Then 2nd compression ring
Upper oil ring
Oil ring expander
Lower oil ring

The top compression ring has a copper color to it.

The Top ring to the right.
The 2nd ring to the left.
The N markes which side is up.

Measuring the ring end gap on the top and 2nd compression ring.
Minimum ring end gap is 0.010"
Rule of thumb is 0.004" for each inch of bore.
In a Apex or RX-1 this sets 0.012" the optimal ring end gap.
Measure the rings in the cylinder they are to be installed.
The tightes of my rings were at 0.010" the widest were at 0.012" and a lot were at 0.011"
No need to grind the rings as they all were within Wiseco specs.

Install the ring in the cylinder bore, use the piston to align it, then measure using a feeler gauge.

I installed the cross pin snap rings on all pistons, then I installed the piston rings.

When installing the piston rings make sure the oil expansion ring gap is placed 90 degree off the cross pin. See illustration 1 below.
Any side, front or rear will do. I use to Place the oil expansion ring gap on the exhaust side of the piston.
Make sure the oil expansion ring do not overlap at the gap or else the engine will burn oil, in worst case engine damage may occure. See illustration 3 below.

Set the top ring gap facing to the left
Set the 2nd ring gap facing to the right
Make sure the ring ends are facing opposite sides.
See illustration 1 above.


Don't be shy on the assebly oil as this is the only oil the engine will run on for the first 10-20 Seconds at first startup after the rebuild.
I oiled the cylinders well With engine oil.

I used a piston ring compression tool to hold the rings in Place when installing the picstons into the cylinders. Place the piston and con rod into the cylinder.

Make sure the piston is installed in the correct direction. The Arrow on the piston Points towards the exhast side.

The pistons are installed.

Installing the con rods to the crankshaft.
Lube the threads and underneat the bolt head With Carrillo thread lube and sealant.

All rods are Connected to the crankshaft, ready to be torked Down.
I have measured the bolt stretch With a micrometer, correct stretch was reached at 40Nm.

Time for bed LOL
More work will be done tomorrow.

 

[yamahamm]

I do know that if i ever need a rebuild on my engine i will take a drive up to you rxrider its only a 7-8 ours drive

 

[rxrider]

Thank you yamahamm, I'll build or rebuild anything.
If you need a rebuild let me know.

 

[rxrider]

Update - March 9. - Engine Rebuild, Apex 2006, joining Block halves, installing oil and water pump, installing covers.


I started the work today With the joining of the Block halves.
The cylinder half were joined With the bottom half.
Before joining the halves I cleaned all surfaces and added a Liquid gasket sealant.
I would prefer Yamabond but any other gasket sealant that is certified to withstand engine oil and gasoline will do.

The halves are joined the the bolts are put in Place.

I torked the bolts to spec.
The 10 big ones holding the crank shaft was torqued to 15 Nm, the thinner bolts on the edges were torqued to 12 Nm. Tork the bolts from the center and out, first the ones in the middle, follow the numbers on the Block.

Make sure the thin metal tube is installed before the oil pump is installed.
Also make sure you install block bolt #17 underneat the oil pump before the pump is installed.
Torque the small bolt holding the metal tube to 10 Nm.
Torque the #17 Block bolt to 12 Nm

Next I installed the water pump.
The water pump shaft has to be joined together With the sprocket.
Make sure the Chain is on the gear on the clutch shaft.
The upper sprocket is going in where my screw driver is.
It's great to have a friend holding the gear in Place when installing the water pump.
I use a long zip-tie to hold the sprocket and Chain in Place.

The water pump in Place. Torqued the bolts to 12 Nm.
The Chain and gear are in Place.
I continued by installing the oil pump.
Torqued the short bolt to 10 Nm
The long bolts were torqued to 12 Nm.

I rotated the engine to make sure the Chain was still on the gear Down at the clutch shaft.
The pumps were driven by the Chain, all worked well.

The oil pump installed.

Installed the oil pan lid.
Make sure all surfaces are clean.
Add the guide pins and the gasket.
Install the lid, add bolts around the edges and tork them to 12 Nm.
The bolts in the middle of the lid to 10 Nm.
Tork the oil drain bolt to 30 Nm.

Installed the coolant hose to the oil cooler.

Great to have a garage computer to lookup torke spec and other relevant information about the install.
I have now updated my card Board bolt Board With the tork specs as well.
Next time it will be a lot easier on Assembly, pic the bolts, read the tork.
No more looking up tork specs on the computer.

I installed the starter gear inside the magneto cover.
Put in the starter to check that I had the starter gear in correctly.
You will have to remove the starter to install the last 8 bolts holding the Block halves together.

Torked the last 7 bolts (bolt 21 to 26) holding the engine halves to 12 Nm.
Three of the bolts require engine oil on the thread. Have a look in the service manual for Reference.

I cleaned the magneto cover, added the guides and a New gasket and installed the magneto cover.

Torked the bolts to 12 Nm.

I cleaned the clutch side cover, added the guides and a New gasket.
Torked the bolts to 12 Nm.
Tork the bolts around the egde of the cover first.
Then tork the bolts holding the bearing to 12 Nm.

Installed the starter engine.

Next work is preparing the cylinder head.
The cylinder head need New valves on the #4 cylinder as all were damaged when my old engine broke Down.
I have to use the old cylinder head as the replacement engine came without it.
I have scavenged my RX-1 cylinder head for valves, they are the same partnumbers as the Apex.
On my RX-1 the valves was bent on all cylinders except one, I reuse the good ones on my Apex.
The RX-1 need a New engine most likely, or I will have to get a cylinder head and a Block.
I have all other parts except for the Block halves and the cylinder head.

 

[steiner]

Nice wrote thus far.
I have not rebuilt or removed an Apex motor but I do have one question.
Is the bracket holding the coolant hose on the correct way? It looks to have eased edges.
It just looks like it could be flipped around so it clamp the hose without damaging the hose.

 

[sxr70001]

Really good writeup. I feel like I could do one.

Question, do they make high compression pistons or different cams for the Nytro motor as well?

 

[rxrider]

Steiner - it's in the correct way.

I take it you refer to this pic

It's an Optical illusion. The eased edges point upward, away from the hose.
The blue marking is from the factory, says the bolt has been torked to spec