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sidewinder chain tensioner

kimcoop1324

Extreme
Joined
Oct 7, 2013
Messages
91
Location
New Hampshire
Country
USA
LOCATION
New Hampshire
I removed the tensioner and tack welded the screws on the roller. I put the tensioner back in and put the adjuster back where it was but it looks loose. what is the correct tension on the chain
 

My manual says to turn bolt in (clockwise) by hand until tight and then back out 1-1/2 turns, then lock the jam nut. I find that a little too tight (how tight is "hand tight"?) so I back out 1-3/4" turns. I came up with this while servicing the chain case and having it apart to clean it and then doing some experimenting.
 
I removed the tensioner and tack welded the screws on the roller. I put the tensioner back in and put the adjuster back where it was but it looks loose. what is the correct tension on the chain

Finger tight and then 1 1/2 turns back. The spring should hold the tension.
 
The spring should hold the tension.
That is really the key here. The "tensioner" bolt really does not hold the tension, the spring does. The bolt keeps the front side from slacking when braking/off throttle.
I think that's why in the early stages of this system, @ 2014, when we as a group said that 1 1/2 turns out was " not correct" we may have been creating some of our own problems. I know I am guilty of running the chain too tight back then and crating an upper bearing problem.
 
I noticed when I set the tensioner back to where it was the end of the tensioner bolt isn't contacting the assembly that holds the tensioner wheel. This sled only has roughly 400 miles on it. So does this adjuster just keep the chain from slapping around or should the bolt actually be touching the tensioner assembly?
 
Old news but here it is again pertaining to the question asked.

Followed the book on sled break in concerning speeds, rpms. Also performed the 500 mile oil changes which included splitting the chain case and inspecting the internals. All looked good so I reassemble and set the chain tension per book( Finger/Hand tight and then back off 1 1/2 turns. I then rode this sled at my non break in way for another 500 or 600 miles. Did my next chain case inspection and oil change at around 1100 miles, and as I checked the chain tension bolt before taking the cover off, I was able to turn it in 2 1/2 - 3 turns I estimate.

My stock 21T gear still showed no wear on that known inner surface, but that loose chain did damage my chaincase, (same spot shown by Cannondale happening to Viper owners). I brought it to my dealers attention and was advised that they had been doing just 1 turn out from their Viper days.
Following year I added a tune and a 22T. Still use that 1 turn out with no more problems, in fact after doing another mid year chaincase inspection last season, all looked good with no visible wear on my 22T which had 2-3K on it.
I started my pre season maintenance this week and hope to have it finalized in 2-3 weeks, so if my 22T is worn I shall shout that out.

So watch out for initial (China Chain) stretch, it occurred only once but it was a doozy, and it won’t occur if you go by the book for motor break in procedures.
 
Old news but here it is again pertaining to the question asked.

Followed the book on sled break in concerning speeds, rpms. Also performed the 500 mile oil changes which included splitting the chain case and inspecting the internals. All looked good so I reassemble and set the chain tension per book( Finger/Hand tight and then back off 1 1/2 turns. I then rode this sled at my non break in way for another 500 or 600 miles. Did my next chain case inspection and oil change at around 1100 miles, and as I checked the chain tension bolt before taking the cover off, I was able to turn it in 2 1/2 - 3 turns I estimate.

My stock 21T gear still showed no wear on that known inner surface, but that loose chain did damage my chaincase, (same spot shown by Cannondale happening to Viper owners). I brought it to my dealers attention and was advised that they had been doing just 1 turn out from their Viper days.
Following year I added a tune and a 22T. Still use that 1 turn out with no more problems, in fact after doing another mid year chaincase inspection last season, all looked good with no visible wear on my 22T which had 2-3K on it.
I started my pre season maintenance this week and hope to have it finalized in 2-3 weeks, so if my 22T is worn I shall shout that out.

So watch out for initial (China Chain) stretch, it occurred only once but it was a doozy, and it won’t occur if you go by the book for motor break in procedures.

Bottom line to me is I have to check chain tension often, NOT just once per year. I check mine every couple of rides.
 
Mine has never stretched since that first initial stretch, but wow did it stretch once.
Might be because of my mid tune (Max Spool 16) and the fact that I use a very low engagement clutch set up with a
Pre studded Ice Attack XT. It allows for minimal spin out of the hole on most snow conditions and a no go on ice.

Sleds that hook really hard do cause a bit more pressure on many components I think. Going back to the original style track this year with studs, so I do expect the anticipated problems caused by them and the better ice traction that they provide! Either way I have been there many many times in the past.
 
YES huge stretch within first 1000 miles(mostly first 500) so if you are BELOW these miles, then do not tighten 1.5 turns OUT, since you will have to tighten again asap.

I have not seen any evidence one way or other that points directly to bushing wear and tensioning turns, I feel its all conjecture at this point, and certainly a poor reverse design and bushing too.

Just be sure the tensioner spring is on correctly after a tack weld. It will hold the tension off the bolt. I do mine all with case open so I can see it for what it is, before installing cover. I would NEVER go more then 1.5 turns out, and still like how 1 turn out looks when open. Also the Cat crowd(24/50) gears look alot more at home then the winder gears(21/41). Does this mean anything? TBD.

Also you guys should use same oil type silicone around sight glass, as some fall INward....and be sure to file off your tack weld as it can RUB(both sides).

A few pics ....

Dan
IMG_5797.jpg


Showing spring tang location....
IMG_5798.jpg
IMG_5799.jpg


Permatex Optimum Black silicone(dries Hard)
IMG_5794.jpg


24/50 cat gears shows PLENTY of threads leftover on adjuster bolt
IMG_5802.jpg
 
I used red locktite on my tensioner bolts vs. tack welding (don't have a welder)...> Think that's sufficient?
 
I used red locktite on my tensioner bolts vs. tack welding (don't have a welder)...> Think that's sufficient?
Don’t over think this. 7200 miles with NO tack weld. I’m not saying this isn’t a issue on SOME sleds. And yes a tack is probably the very best insurance but sometimes I feel like guys come on and freak out if they don’t do exactly what’s being done on here. Tons of sleds running without a tack weld and red lock tight is good just let it set up good and tighten everything with plenty of red.
 
Problem was, mine had ZERO loctite where my friends was tight with loctite. Both screws on mine loose, one rubbing the case.
Also.....do you guys turn the convertor forward putting the slack of the chain in front, and then adjust the screw in? I've always done this and it makes a difference.
 
I used red locktite on my tensioner bolts vs. tack welding (don't have a welder)...> Think that's sufficient?
I'm doing it's first chaincase service now,1500mi.
One tensioner screw had green loctite and was still snug but not overly tight, the other screw didn't have any loctite and was backed halfway out. I red loctited and tack welded both.
 
Installed a new tensioner that I had welded and a new 3 hole 21 gear for peace of mind. My old tensioner was fine with no loose screws but my no hole top gear had all the grey coating worn off. 1500 miles.
 


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