Doc Harley
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1)Can I just add green loctite through the front and back without removing the bearing from the housing? Yikes!!
2) has anyone loaded that bearing with isoflex grease? Thoughts? (Now I'm really sorry...ugh.
3) what grade of green loctite
2) has anyone loaded that bearing with isoflex grease? Thoughts? (Now I'm really sorry...ugh.
3) what grade of green loctite
Last edited:
Fords4life
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Pull it apart, clean housing and bearing shell with brakecleaner, apply locktite green, such #*$&@ 680 to outside bearing shell and bore of housing and press back together, dont mix greases, one or the other.
NYTurbo
TY 4 Stroke God
99 percent of the time the bearing moves in the housing. U need to press housing off bearing and loctite. Red loctite would work. , your just making it harder for it to move when and if u blow a belt
Doc Harley
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What grease goes in bearing? I use Lucas high tack (red) on jackshaft & driveshaft brgs.Pull it apart, clean housing and bearing shell with brakecleaner, apply locktite green, such #*$&@ 680 to outside bearing shell and bore of housing and press back together, dont mix greases, one or the other.
1nc 2000
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Never greased one. Just replaced the assembly on my nytro with 20,000 plus miles on it. The bearing was dry and rough to turn.
Turboflash
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Whatever you use, make sure it's rated for high temp (300F) and high RPM and high load. That bearing is carrying the load of the primary clutch + the load of pull of the belt + the load of the crankshaft and is turning at whatever RPM you're running at (9,000?). Also, lots of heat from all the load and the high RPM. If you're planning on just adding grease, make sure whatever you add is compatible with the grease that's already in bearing. Some types of grease are not compatible with others. Best to clean/wash out all old and re-grease with all new.
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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The yamaha manual says, "apply low-temperature lithium soap based grease".
Doc Harley
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The yamaha manual says, "apply low-temperature lithium soap based grease".
Found an interesting read on this matter. Ty....
What is Lithium Soap-Based Grease?
Almost 70% of grease on the market is lithium soap-based grease! Here is why they might be the best choice for your application.
www.getredlist.com
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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These pictures are out of my nytro manual. The sidewinder stub shaft does not have the ring gear on it for the crank sensor.
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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Here is the torque spec on the bolts. From the sidewinder manual.
These manuals i have gotten thru TY for being a VIP member.
Well worth it in my opinion.
These manuals i have gotten thru TY for being a VIP member.
Well worth it in my opinion.
Doc Harley
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After reviewing this matter further, am i naive enough to believe this is acceptable product for bearing?
If in fact I can use it, does grease go bad. 30yrs old +/-
It seems to me after reading the full article I inserted earlier there are only two types of lithium grease one is a simple soap based and number two is complex
If in fact I can use it, does grease go bad. 30yrs old +/-
It seems to me after reading the full article I inserted earlier there are only two types of lithium grease one is a simple soap based and number two is complex
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Turboflash
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I would not use 30 year old grease.
IMO, the Lucas one you mentioned earlier is a lithium complex. IMO a better choice.
This is from Lucas website: Lucas Red "N" Tacky Grease is a smooth, tacky, red lithium complex grease fortified with rust and oxidation inhibitors.
IMO, the Lucas one you mentioned earlier is a lithium complex. IMO a better choice.
This is from Lucas website: Lucas Red "N" Tacky Grease is a smooth, tacky, red lithium complex grease fortified with rust and oxidation inhibitors.
Doc Harley
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Oh, hell.....I got that one 2! Hahaha.....thanks, turboI would not use 30 year old grease.
IMO, the Lucas one you mentioned earlier is a lithium complex. IMO a better choice.
This is from Lucas website: Lucas Red "N" Tacky Grease is a smooth, tacky, red lithium complex grease fortified with rust and oxidation inhibitors.
Sevey
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When i did this on my my Nytro - the bearing's seal had a rigid washer imbedded in the rubber seal. So when you picked it out it was crimping it and leaving a dimple was tough to avoid. They may have changed the SW bearing, but if you have over 10,000 km on it and you have it apart - probably wise just to add a new bearing.
MS
MS
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