stopdropanroll
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2008
- Messages
- 1,432
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- Fall River WI
- Website
- www.styleonecustommotoring.com
Insane. Almost hate to ride such a good looking sled..........almost!
HYFLYR
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Thanks guys! It was a ton of work and still have a few little issues to work out but you get the idea. Should be a real runner once i get it on the snow.
I will continue updates as time goes and will also post pics under the hood as there is some bling under there as well. Now its caleb's turn, dont worry guys, it wont be long!!!!
I will continue updates as time goes and will also post pics under the hood as there is some bling under there as well. Now its caleb's turn, dont worry guys, it wont be long!!!!
BigECB
Extreme
Awesome looking sled!
I checked the whole thread but I couldn't find the specifics on what pivot adapter, riser and bars you are running... care to elaborate on that?
I have the OFT relocator and would like to swap the stock riser for something like what you have...
Thanks for the pics!
I checked the whole thread but I couldn't find the specifics on what pivot adapter, riser and bars you are running... care to elaborate on that?
I have the OFT relocator and would like to swap the stock riser for something like what you have...
Thanks for the pics!
HYFLYR said:
yamahaboy701
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
WOW that turned out great! Best looking nytro I have ever seen!
HYFLYR
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I used FLY 5" risers with fly aero taper bars, with RSI 7" grips and RSI handwarmers
sonds
Lifetime Member
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- Golden Valley MN
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- ductworksmn.com
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- USA
- Snowmobile
- 08 T-Nytro
Lotta work..... Well done boys
yamahaboy701
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
.HYFLYR said:
How tall are you? I am putting a similar set up on my nytro and with a 8" riser, maybe to tall.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
He's pretty short, 6' 7" haha. I'm 6' 0" and have the exact same setup except for a 3" riser and it feels perfect to me.
The OFT relocate and RTX post combined move the post forward and up enough that you don't need nearly as tall of a riser. The RTX post is about 1.25" taller than the MTX post and Fly bars have around 3.25" of rise.
The OFT relocate and RTX post combined move the post forward and up enough that you don't need nearly as tall of a riser. The RTX post is about 1.25" taller than the MTX post and Fly bars have around 3.25" of rise.
HYFLYR
TY 4 Stroke Guru
What he said^
tapex_07
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2009
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- Snowmobile
- '10 Nytro MTX SE IMPULSE 174x3
'14 Viper XTX SE MPI 159x14x1.25
'07 Apex RTX SC2 MPI 128x1
Man that looks nice!! Great work Hyflyr.
hugger70mtnmax
Expert
Tunnel Hardware
The sled looks really awesome. Can't wait till I can afford to have a Nytro. I was wondering about the hardware you used on the rails. My mountain max has no traction at all. The fasteners you used on the running boards looks cool and looks like it would be great for traction. I am just not quite sure what it is. It looks like it sits flush on the bottom and i would need something like that because of the heat exhangers on the bottom of the rails. Thanks
The sled looks really awesome. Can't wait till I can afford to have a Nytro. I was wondering about the hardware you used on the rails. My mountain max has no traction at all. The fasteners you used on the running boards looks cool and looks like it would be great for traction. I am just not quite sure what it is. It looks like it sits flush on the bottom and i would need something like that because of the heat exhangers on the bottom of the rails. Thanks
bholmlate
Expert
Great looking sleds !!! 
Nikolai
I am also 6'-0" and i am thinking of changing out my current pivot block and riser which equal around 9" total (6" riser block and 3" pivot riser)
If i understand you, with the OFT relocator and a 3" riser and mountain bars that have a 3 1/4" rise it feels about right to you.
the only difference between what you are running and and what i am planning on running would be the RTX steering post. Are you sure they RTX is 1 3/4" taller then the MTX??
I am trying to to decide whether to go with a 4" or 3" riser. If in fact there is that much difference in post heights between the RTX and MTX i better go with the 4" rise.
Just add my 2 cents i also had problems with a gunnar tether. then must of had a bad product run or something. I did some reasearch and Gunnar sounded like the way to go.
Nikolai
I am also 6'-0" and i am thinking of changing out my current pivot block and riser which equal around 9" total (6" riser block and 3" pivot riser)
If i understand you, with the OFT relocator and a 3" riser and mountain bars that have a 3 1/4" rise it feels about right to you.
the only difference between what you are running and and what i am planning on running would be the RTX steering post. Are you sure they RTX is 1 3/4" taller then the MTX??
I am trying to to decide whether to go with a 4" or 3" riser. If in fact there is that much difference in post heights between the RTX and MTX i better go with the 4" rise.
Just add my 2 cents i also had problems with a gunnar tether. then must of had a bad product run or something. I did some reasearch and Gunnar sounded like the way to go.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
They're countersunk 8-32 structural screws from the local aviation store. Unbelievable traction and the boards clear surprisingly well with the 1" holes. I like my setup a lot more than the better boards I had.
As for the Gunnar, I'm going to wire it into a relay so hopefully I won't have any issues.
The RTX post pivot point is about the same as an MTX post with a Powermadd Pivot adapter which adds 1.25". I couldn't really tell you exactly what to get as my sled sits quite a bit different from Drews. At one point he had a 3" riser on his(exact same bar setup as me now) and my bars felt higher. I think it's cause my tunnel sits fairly level to the ground vs. having a big kickup. A stock MTX has a fair amount of kickup so you might want to try the 4" riser.
As for the Gunnar, I'm going to wire it into a relay so hopefully I won't have any issues.
The RTX post pivot point is about the same as an MTX post with a Powermadd Pivot adapter which adds 1.25". I couldn't really tell you exactly what to get as my sled sits quite a bit different from Drews. At one point he had a 3" riser on his(exact same bar setup as me now) and my bars felt higher. I think it's cause my tunnel sits fairly level to the ground vs. having a big kickup. A stock MTX has a fair amount of kickup so you might want to try the 4" riser.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I'll get some measurements later from the running boards to the handlebars, maybe that will be more help.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I'll be done today but here's a few pics before I put the plastic on.
Used the single white TORS connector on the one down by the ECU and grounded it to same place right below the coolant bottle. Now I can play with the CO's
handlebar setup
wiring all done
filed a slot in the brake ressi so I could run the handwarmer wire through it
relay installed for the Gunnar tether
The CR throttle block doesn't allow you to use any kind of retaining clip on the throttle cable, just throttle tension. Obviously this doesn't work for me...so I used safety wire and drilled two tiny holes in the throttle block. Wrapped the wire around the cable, then twisted it tight and put it through the block where it's wrapped again and folded out of the way. Now way in hell it's ever coming out.
robbed the aluminum reinforcements from the factory bottom plate and riveted them to the skid plate which is all I'm going to use.
Used the single white TORS connector on the one down by the ECU and grounded it to same place right below the coolant bottle. Now I can play with the CO's
handlebar setup
wiring all done
filed a slot in the brake ressi so I could run the handwarmer wire through it
relay installed for the Gunnar tether
The CR throttle block doesn't allow you to use any kind of retaining clip on the throttle cable, just throttle tension. Obviously this doesn't work for me...so I used safety wire and drilled two tiny holes in the throttle block. Wrapped the wire around the cable, then twisted it tight and put it through the block where it's wrapped again and folded out of the way. Now way in hell it's ever coming out.
robbed the aluminum reinforcements from the factory bottom plate and riveted them to the skid plate which is all I'm going to use.
