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Summer build

I can't wait to see both of these sleds done. I have been watching this thread all summer and WOW are these going to be amazing machines. Now to start my build or maybe I'll wait till these sled are done. :Rockon:

Tookes said:
awesome what is left?
I bet snow is on the list still :4STroke:
 

Motor is in, front clip is on, turbo is on and wasgate is dialed all the way up! :Rockon:

Now i have to run all the fuel, coolant, and oil lines. Also waiting on new fuel system from Impulse with all the electronics to go with it. As soon as i get those i can throw it on and then some plastics. Waiting on our hoods as well although i did see a pic from a buddy and they are looking VERY nice. Couple more weekends and she will be rideable, well whenever we get snow. :o|
 
Cleaned up the motor, installed the high HP CR10EK plugs, and a new exhaust gasket. Also have a new oil filter to go on.
motor.jpg

Since the stock heat shield go trashed I siliconed some 2000* header wrap down
pipewrap.jpg

and then put 1500* insulating tape over it. I'll be doing the top cover too so heat retention should be a non-issue, lol
tape.jpg

motor in and everything so clean and shiny. Put 3 new gaskets in at the header
header-3.jpg

Very poor pic of the skid installed. Luckily my modified big wheel axle worked just like I hoped it would. I made sure my drivers and everything were all perfectly aligned, and with the four wheels in back and the anti-stab kit, the track rolls extremely easy. Less resistance than last year for sure.
skidin.jpg


I'll get some better pics this weekend, should be mostly finished.
 
I got the hoses in, started the wiring and some radom stuff. Kinda at a stand still until i get my turbo stuff in, hopefully it will be soon.
001-4.jpg


Caleb got his clutches on and aligned, skis on and header in. Starting to look like a sled now.
002-2.jpg
 
TT installed. The new version fits SOOOO much better it's not even funny. I thought the only change was the molding for the coolant lines but there's at least four things different from my first tank. This one fit like a glove and the screw holes for the gas tank shroud actually lined up :Rockon: I also made a couple little spacers out of oak so there's no way for the tank to slide back.

spacer-1.jpg

TT.jpg
 
looking nice nikolai, mine is a week or so behind yours in getting back together...but looking good!!!

just got some parts back from p-coating, spent the week in the hills hunting elk...no snow even at the tops...hard to have snow when it is 85-90 in Mid September!!!

praying for snow!!!
 

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Nikolai,

Do you have an old Trail Tank to get rid of? Know a guy looking.

David :yam:
 
hyflyer-
I like your fuel tank. What did you do for baffles and how did you place the fuel pick up? So when your low on fuel and the sled is pointed straight up or down the side of a mountain you don't suck air??
Keep up the hard work on and awesome build!
 
Its an impulse turbo tank. The stock fuel pump is located in the rear which then feeds a surge tank in the nose of the sled with a msd fuel pump feeding the fuel rail. The tank is baffled and the fuel filter is caged if you will to prevent sloshing, which in the end leads to no air when pointed uphill.

Sleds are coming along guys, will post pics later.
 
Started on the electrical tonight. Here's the rundown...

- Eliminating TORS and the killswitch and just running a tether
- hi/low toggle switch in the dash for the headlight
- single pull, dual throw, momentary toggle switch in the dash for the thumb/handwarmers
- wiring in the RSI warmers. Can't decide if I want to do the blue/red together or not. I want hot hands and I have aluminum bars, but I also don't want to be melting holes in my grips.

pic...should be extremely clean when done
bars.jpg
 
To delete the TORS or at least de activate it you will need to unplug the single white wire coming from the handlebars to the clucth side bundle and the single black wire and plug them into each other. In other words, white to black, white to black, instead of white to white like stock, this will deactivate it.

As for the kill switch, you will need to run a tether wired into the two brown wires to complete the loop. We are running the GUNNER kill switch, it has a ground and two power wires and all you need to do is cut the two brown wires from the kill switch connect them to the tether which will the act as you switch. Hope this makes sense, its hard enough to do it let alone describe it , lol.
 


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