TAPP primary

[Tcat100]

I just achieved 1000 miles and retired the heavily glazed XS belt. I have 600 on its successor and it looks good.

 

[Crossfire12]

While I know Terry has been working with the Pro4 3 arm, and I know he has several happy owners with good feedback, I think its abit premature without several seasons and alot of miles. Not saying it wont be incredible, just that TAPP has had lots of theirs out on big HP 1200s for some time now, with many great reviews.

I still am not certain I need an aftermarket clutch as my stocker is perfect at 270hp for most its life, but if I do get a new primary It would be hard to not want the TAPP at this time.

I really want the Pro4 ,if no harmonic problems I want one, the stm is similar so I’m nervous to spend the money, maybe the four arm??

 

[Big_Phil]

I just achieved 1000 miles and retired the heavily glazed XS belt. I have 600 on its successor and it looks good.

That's better than what I am getting now, which tune are you running? I snapped an xs825 at about 400kms, but that one my have been my fault.......

 

[Big_Phil]

With all this talk about aftermarket primary’s I’m gonna give a shout out here.
For the same price as a Tapp 3 arm clutch you can buy a STM 4 arm billet clutch. If you think the Tapp can grab the belt as hard as a 4 arm STM.....not even close.
There has been rhetoric that the STM will wear out rollers and bushings prematurely. Well I have been running mine for over 5500 miles with no issues. I do plan to go through it this off season tho.
It accepts Sk-Doo springs so you have a HUGE variety of springs to choose from. You can also run any fly weights in this clutch. You can also run any belt width by shimming the spider.
One thing I don’t like about it is the noise, yes it clicks loud! I wear ear plugs anyway tho so not a big deal.
I will take a 4 arm any day over a 3 arm with tunes over 300hp. You can run a lot smaller weight per arm that way and I believe this helps with bushing wear.
M2C

4 arm stm will still break trail riding on 998 or 1049. Works great for race tho, my brother runs one on his viper.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

That's better than what I am getting now, which tune are you running? I snapped an xs825 at about 400kms, but that one my have been my fault.......

setup? what weights? Just about all of us with tunes cured our belt blowers.

Dan

 

[Big_Phil]

setup? what weights? Just about all of us with tunes cured our belt blowers.

Dan

270r. STM’s. 2 tungsten in heel. 1 in middle. 3 washers in tip. Black bronze primary. Glide washers. 15.5mm rollers. Stock helix. Hi torque rollers from td I think. Dalton white a 0-1. Had epi purple before but same #*$&@. Allignedd with hurricane bar. Belts look mint before they take top cigs off and then destruct. 500kms to 8jp. 8-900kms to an 8dn. Doesn’t matter how I drive. Easy or hard. Sled pulls good, runs 107-109 in 660 on td gps on 270r. Can race all day without breaking a belt. They usually blow while cruising at 110-130kph

 

[ClutchMaster]

4 arm stm will still break trail riding on 998 or 1049. Works great for race tho, my brother runs one on his viper.

Humm interesting, I guess we will see.

I have around 5000 miles on mine with a lot of time above 300hp, no issues.

The sheaves and cover are billet also twice as thick as the stock clutch so I guess I would have to see a failure to believe it.

I was told by STM when I bought the clutch that the only failures were with the quick change spider. Don’t get the quick change and you won’t have problems.

 

[STAIN]

I"ll admit, the biggest reason I went with this clutch was durability. I had a really good set up with my stock clutching. Belts lasted over 1500 miles easily.
I didn't want to be the guy in the middle of an 1100 mile saddle bag trip sending my clutch rollers into orbit.
I do know that even though I dont have the TAPP dialed in yet, it still pulls harder on the bottom than my stock clutch. It should be really good once tuned in....

I blame you guys on here with all the broken clutch pictures for my spending the money on this set up, so I am taking donations to help cover costs.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

270r. STM’s. 2 tungsten in heel. 1 in middle. 3 washers in tip. Black bronze primary. Glide washers. 15.5mm rollers. Stock helix. Hi torque rollers from td I think. Dalton white a 0-1. Had epi purple before but same #*$&@. Allignedd with hurricane bar. Belts look mint before they take top cigs off and then destruct. 500kms to 8jp. 8-900kms to an 8dn. Doesn’t matter how I drive. Easy or hard. Sled pulls good, runs 107-109 in 660 on td gps on 270r. Can race all day without breaking a belt. They usually blow while cruising at 110-130kph

STMs....get rid of them IMO.

Dan

 

[Crossfire12]

Go fund me page, I need a Tapp. I definitely need take off without slipping belt. Like going on trailer

 

[ROCKERDAN]

guys the nicest thing about the TAPP is that it is very adjustable out of the box, with included components. Now I would make sure to get it with plus 1mm rollers as the 2mm ones put it at the end of the adjustability range, but otherwise it is complete at $1350. No adjustable weights to buy. Can be adjusted massively with just the clickers too, which takes like less than 1 minute trail side. I've gone 1500 miles plus and everything is just as tight as when I bought it. It's really a nice piece and while it's a roller-on-ramp clutch similar to ski-doo, the orientation is totally different. It's more like the old arctic cat hex clutch but the arms are parallel to the shaft at idle, and swing to may be 45 degrees at full shift out. This is quite different from the ski doo design...it grabs like a MF down low. Also, the layout means the arms are closer to the center of the shaft which helps it with rotational inertia. My only regret is not buying it day 1 for a 270 hp sled.

Wow, that is cheapest I have seen a TAPP complete. That must be before shipping costs though eh?

Did you buy direct from Powderlites or did you buy from a TAPP re-seller in US?

Dan

 

[Byam]

270r. STM’s. 2 tungsten in heel. 1 in middle. 3 washers in tip. Black bronze primary. Glide washers. 15.5mm rollers. Stock helix. Hi torque rollers from td I think. Dalton white a 0-1. Had epi purple before but same #*$&@. Allignedd with hurricane bar. Belts look mint before they take top cigs off and then destruct. 500kms to 8jp. 8-900kms to an 8dn. Doesn’t matter how I drive. Easy or hard. Sled pulls good, runs 107-109 in 660 on td gps on 270r. Can race all day without breaking a belt. They usually blow while cruising at 110-130kph

need more helix! 15.5mm will hold the shift to long

Try it!

 

[Big_Phil]

need more helix! 15.5mm will hold the shift to long

Try it!

Higher number helix? Any recommendations?

 

[Big_Phil]

STMs....get rid of them IMO.

Dan

Ya? What are you running now, Daltons I assume?

 

[fatchance]

I am considering a new clutch because I ride standing 90% of the time and I'm constantly thinking one of my heavy hitters are going to go whipping by my face from the stock clutch. I'm super anal about making sure it's staying together as I check it at every trail intersection, which is easy to do when I'm waiting for the rest of the group to catch up.