TAPP primary

[Tcat100]

Wow, that is cheapest I have seen a TAPP complete. That must be before shipping costs though eh?

Did you buy direct from Powderlites or did you buy from a TAPP re-seller in US?

Dan

I went direct to get it setup for the cat 1.5 belt width. Shipping was extra

 

[Tcat100]

Well just finished out the season with 2000 miles on my 2017 zr 9000, with about 1600 miles on the TAPP clutch. It's an awesome clutch, couldn't be happier. I run a STM old school secondary so very similar to the yamaha secondary. I plan to move this set up over to my 2019 zr 9000 rr that I picked up about a month ago. I run my sleds about 2 years/4k miles before retiring them. With all that is happening with CAT (and by implication Yamaha) I sure hope this motor/chassis combo remains for a few more years. I like this chassis and other than replacing the top gear once a season it's been pretty good. One thing I've learned is that if you turn them up, you need to upgrade the clutches if you want longevity/reliability from them.

 

[Turboflash]

Well .... not sure Tcat100 on your statement about need for upgrading clutching on turned up sleds as evidenced by my groups' 3 2017 Cat ZR9000's with 280HP tunes, lots of studs, 82 gms in primary and about 4000 miles on each. All our Team clutches look like new, no wear, no worn bushings, spiders still tight, etc, etc. Clutches look like new. XS belt life is great! 21/38 gearing on all.

 

[Tcat100]

If you run them hard, they are susceptible to premature wear and belt failures vs billet. I blow up stuff on everything I own, happy to take your sled for a weekend and prove it to you )). I will agree I like the Cat Team primary compared to other Cat clutches, but I blew my rollers and buttons out at 2300 miles

 

[1nc 2000]

Pro-4 has 3 arm, 4 arm and 6 arm. The 3 arm clutches have been tested and proven on the winders.

I am still running the prototype on my sled and everything is great.

How did the year of testing go with the Tapp primary clutch?
I am having to change out rollers and weight bushings in my Yamaha primary couple times a winter.
Looking for better reliability.

 

[Tcat100]

How did the year of testing go with the Tapp primary clutch?
I am having to change out rollers and weight bushings in my Yamaha primary couple times a winter.
Looking for better reliability.

I put another 250 miles on to end the season. LOVE the TAPP clutch, it just plain works. I would say if you order one get the plus 1 rollers rather than the plus 2 he ships the with, and get the stiff spring he offers. That will be closer out of the box than how he set mine up. I am running the plus 2 but I went and purchased some titanium bolts to take 10 grams out (total) to run right at 9200 on a 270-280 tune with a CAI. The acceleration difference compared to a stock Cat set up right is night and day. NO low end belt slip at all. It works well guys, still looks new too.

 

[NYTurbo]

Any rattle/noise on the TAPP after those miles ?

 

[WinterWolf]

I put another 250 miles on to end the season. LOVE the TAPP clutch, it just plain works. I would say if you order one get the plus 1 rollers rather than the plus 2 he ships the with, and get the stiff spring he offers. That will be closer out of the box than how he set mine up. I am running the plus 2 but I went and purchased some titanium bolts to take 10 grams out (total) to run right at 9200 on a 270-280 tune with a CAI. The acceleration difference compared to a stock Cat set up right is night and day. NO low end belt slip at all. It works well guys, still looks new too.

When you say “compared to a stock Cat set up right”, do you mean a Cat with stock clutches that’s set up with a tune, when you say night and day difference??

Cuz I’m seriously considering the TAPP Next year, along with a Pro 4 Secondary as well for my winder, that’s Hurricane SM Tuned.

I also remember you saying that you can adjust it(The TAPP) massively by adjusting the clickers in the clutch...do those clickers control max/full shift RPM changes up and down??

 

[STAIN]

You can adjust with the clickers but only fine tuning. They are not meant to be for huge RPM adjustments. 50 rpm per slot change if I remember correctly.
I have the TAPP also and will be buying the smaller +1 rollers or even the stock DOO size.
This clutch is so smooth and quiet. It is a big expense BUT if ordered correctly you not need additional tuning components.
Be prepared to run shallower angle helix or stiffer springs in the secondary. The TAPP shifts very aggressively/hard and will blow through wimpy secondary springs or steep helix combos

 

[Tcat100]

You can adjust with the clickers but only fine tuning. They are not meant to be for huge RPM adjustments. 50 rpm per slot change if I remember correctly.
I have the TAPP also and will be buying the smaller +1 rollers or even the stock DOO size.
This clutch is so smooth and quiet. It is a big expense BUT if ordered correctly you not need additional tuning components.
Be prepared to run shallower angle helix or stiffer springs in the secondary. The TAPP shifts very aggressively/hard and will blow through wimpy secondary springs or steep helix combos

Agree, you need a shallow helix but that I believe is why the belt life is so good.

 

[Tcat100]

When you say “compared to a stock Cat set up right”, do you mean a Cat with stock clutches that’s set up with a tune, when you say night and day difference?? Yes

Cuz I’m seriously considering the TAPP Next year, along with a Pro 4 Secondary as well for my winder, that’s Hurricane SM Tuned.

I also remember you saying that you can adjust it(The TAPP) massively by adjusting the clickers in the clutch...do those clickers control max/full shift RPM changes up and down??

.

I found the clickers to really effect the shift. In fact I really just swap between 5 and 6 with my setup. They do effect the whole range. While this clutch is a skidoo style clutch, it's ramp/roller orientation is completely different than the stock skidoo, and more aggressive so small changes on the TAPP make a big difference compared to the doo

 

[WinterWolf]

.

I found the clickers to really effect the shift. In fact I really just swap between 5 and 6 with my setup. They do effect the whole range. While this clutch is a skidoo style clutch, it's ramp/roller orientation is completely different than the stock skidoo, and more aggressive so small changes on the TAPP make a big difference compared to the doo

Thank you Tcat for the info.

So let’s say you find your R’s are too low, and you need to increase top end/Max RPM by say 4-500 RPM, will the clicker adjustments allow for that kind of adjustability?? Or no?? Just trying to get a feel for how this TAPP works?? I was reading that TAPP actually stands for “Totally Adjustable Performance Product.” Very interesting. No more rattling I would assume..is that correct??

 

[Tcat100]

Thank you Tcat for the info.

So let’s say you find your R’s are too low, and you need to increase top end/Max RPM by say 4-500 RPM, will the clicker adjustments allow for that kind of adjustability?? Or no?? Just trying to get a feel for how this TAPP works?? I was reading that TAPP actually stands for “Totally Adjustable Performance Product.” Very interesting. No more rattling I would assume..is that correct??

No rattle at all. I'd say each click is 100-150 rpms. You can easily fine tune from the outside with screws and washers too.

 

[ClutchMaster]

If I had too do it over again I would seriously consider the Tapp. I know the ramp style clutches will grab incredibly hard off the line. Right now I have my 4 post loaded to the gills in the heal and I still get a little slip when when hooking with sharpened pics.
Thanks for the feedback guys!

 

[Tcat100]

Guys all I can say is that this clutch is a work of art that plain works. For those who have seen my posts here or on Hardcore you know I ride hard, and call out stuff that doesn't work or does work. Of course it's all just my experience. But I will say this...1) the premium for this clutch over alternatives considering all the tuning parts are included is small relative to all the money we dump in these sleds. I think people focus on the upfront sticker and say "nah, that's just too much for a clutch", but this is the hardest working part on the whole sled, and the weakest link. These turbo's stock are pushing the limit of the belt drive/cast clutch limits, and turned up they are well past it. I'm not saying that the stock stuff can't work, just that you should expect more issues. If you ride hard in territory like the UP of Michigan, you will have problems with the stock stuff sooner or later. With this clutch, I don't think you will. 2) there is a huge performance gain in acceleration, and let's say the premium over stock is $500...how cheap is that compared to all the money we put into exhaust, tunes, traction, etc? Let alone belts. Best performance buck I've spent in a long time...