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TAPP primary

TAPP is 4 arm while the pro4 has a 3arm setup and also a 4arm setup. Terry is selling the 3arm pro4 setup for Winders and having good reviews. IMO the TAPP has alot more reviews and for the most part all are very positive. Also very expensive but from the 1200 doo guys with big power reviews are good.

STMs have recently been having alot of bad reviews on the 998s.....Just what i've been reading more and more these last few months.

Dan

Dan do you have a link? I would like to know what to look out for.
 

Dan do you have a link? I would like to know what to look out for.
Hey Brother....I dont have any specific links, but it seems everytime I dive into clutch reading as I also have been contemplating a new primary, I end up seeing where STM guys are having issues with some miles and harmonics of the 998.

As the STM was one of the ones I was looking at hard initially....It might be same as many other issues we see, where some of these primaries(be it stock or team or whatever) end up having an issue. I swear I often wonder if buying the stub shaft from Dave would be a wiser thing to do, to clean up these harmonics. Its really too bad YAMAHA does not take a look at Daves "harmonic balancer"(stub shaft) and simply make a change to this 998 design, it sure would go a long way to stock clutch life, and the clammering noise. Probably would help belt life and clutch longevity too!

Dan
 
"No warranty on Nitro 1000 or Ski-Doo Triple motors as we do not recommend running these clutches on them."

That statement is right off the STM sight, one reason I bought the TAPP instead.
I have a buddy running STM 4 arm on his 1100 Cats with 270-300 hp and he is breaking covers and I believe a movable sheave....
 
TAPP is 4 arm while the pro4 has a 3arm setup and also a 4arm setup. Terry is selling the 3arm pro4 setup for Winders and having good reviews. IMO the TAPP has alot more reviews and for the most part all are very positive. Also very expensive but from the 1200 doo guys with big power reviews are good.

STMs have recently been having alot of bad reviews on the 998s.....Just what i've been reading more and more these last few months.

Dan

Pro-4 has 3 arm, 4 arm and 6 arm. The 3 arm clutches have been tested and proven on the winders.

I am still running the prototype on my sled and everything is great.
 
Giving a Tapp clutch a try on this Winder since the previous owner already had it installed on the sled when I got it. Sled now has a MCX turbo and intercooler upgrade with full Motec M1 engine management. Still in the initial stages of testing and tuning clutch and engine but results have been promising so far...

Results on intercooler efficiency have been very promising too!!!
 

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Pro-4 has 3 arm, 4 arm and 6 arm. The 3 arm clutches have been tested and proven on the winders.

I am still running the prototype on my sled and everything is great.
Will you guarantee it! Pro4 3 arm for how many miles, Tapp a little more states service 10,000 miles, just asking
 
Pro-4 has 3 arm, 4 arm and 6 arm. The 3 arm clutches have been tested and proven on the winders.

I am still running the prototype on my sled and everything is great.
Will you guarantee it! Pro4 3 arm for how many miles, Tapp a little more states service 10,000 miles, just asking

While I know Terry has been working with the Pro4 3 arm, and I know he has several happy owners with good feedback, I think its abit premature without several seasons and alot of miles. Not saying it wont be incredible, just that TAPP has had lots of theirs out on big HP 1200s for some time now, with many great reviews.

I still am not certain I need an aftermarket clutch as my stocker is perfect at 270hp for most its life, but if I do get a new primary It would be hard to not want the TAPP at this time.
 
guys the nicest thing about the TAPP is that it is very adjustable out of the box, with included components. Now I would make sure to get it with plus 1mm rollers as the 2mm ones put it at the end of the adjustability range, but otherwise it is complete at $1350. No adjustable weights to buy. Can be adjusted massively with just the clickers too, which takes like less than 1 minute trail side. I've gone 1500 miles plus and everything is just as tight as when I bought it. It's really a nice piece and while it's a roller-on-ramp clutch similar to ski-doo, the orientation is totally different. It's more like the old arctic cat hex clutch but the arms are parallel to the shaft at idle, and swing to may be 45 degrees at full shift out. This is quite different from the ski doo design...it grabs like a MF down low. Also, the layout means the arms are closer to the center of the shaft which helps it with rotational inertia. My only regret is not buying it day 1 for a 270 hp sled.
 
guys the nicest thing about the TAPP is that it is very adjustable out of the box, with included components. Now I would make sure to get it with plus 1mm rollers as the 2mm ones put it at the end of the adjustability range, but otherwise it is complete at $1350. No adjustable weights to buy. Can be adjusted massively with just the clickers too, which takes like less than 1 minute trail side. I've gone 1500 miles plus and everything is just as tight as when I bought it. It's really a nice piece and while it's a roller-on-ramp clutch similar to ski-doo, the orientation is totally different. It's more like the old arctic cat hex clutch but the arms are parallel to the shaft at idle, and swing to may be 45 degrees at full shift out. This is quite different from the ski doo design...it grabs like a MF down low. Also, the layout means the arms are closer to the center of the shaft which helps it with rotational inertia. My only regret is not buying it day 1 for a 270 hp sled.


Been thinking about this clutch(TAPP) very much of late. Just got home from northern Maine and 500 miles of riding. Don’t know much about it, but can it be aligned with the stock secondary with Hurricane adjustment tool?? Or do you have to use something else to set offset/alignment?? Has it improved belt life at all for those of you who are running it?? I have Hurricane SM Flash Bundle on mine(225,240,270)..which I love; but think the primary clutch on these are time bombs, especially when tuned imo.

Blew a belt 5 minutes into my trip, and wasn’t accelerating hard at all when it blew(belt had 635 miles on it), put new one on and was great the next 500 miles. Sled has been Hurricane tool aligned this season with my installation of the SM Tunes...so I was hoping the belt blowing was behind me, but as I said I blew one anyway.(second one since I bought sled new last year)...both belts blew at the exact same mileage(635 miles). Last year sled was stock Tune, and this year it has the tunes in, and had been Hurricane tool aligned. But belt blew at 635 miles again...go figure???

Thinking about investing in a better primary for next season...so any info on the TAPP would be greatly appreciated. Does it quiet the rattle down..or eliminate it completely?? Easy to adjust RPM?? Improved performance over stock primary?? Is it compatible with the stock secondary??
 
Will you guarantee it! Pro4 3 arm for how many miles, Tapp a little more states service 10,000 miles, just asking

@Pro-4 Performance

Mark would be the best to ask as he is the one who makes them.

Just answering questions here about the Pro-4, but don't want this thread to go off-track from the TAPP primary clutch.
 
The fixed sheave on the tapp is about 1mm thicker than the stocker, so if your offset is a bit
more than you would like, this will move the belt out approx 1mm
 
can it be aligned with the stock secondary with Hurricane adjustment tool??
No
quiet the rattle down..or eliminate it completely??
Yes, I can only hear the stub shaft rattle now
Improved performance over stock primary
Yes, grabs much harder than the stock clutch
compatible with the stock secondary??
Yes, a helix/spring change may be necessary

I would take Tcat100's advice on this, he seems to have the most experience with the TAPP.
I feel I am starting to get a grasp on it....I have to go about it with some fresh tuning thoughts
 
I know in my talk with Dave, they are recommending the 8DN as belt choice, which is nice cheap belt.

My concern is, the 8DN is too long for top speed equal to the shorter belts, so are guys just gonna gear up then? When gearing up is the belt life gonna be shortened due to heat?

Now with my belt life all fixed on stock clutch, Im almost afraid to start over!

Dan
 
What kind of mileage are people getting to a belt with the Tapp Primary? I would get one if anybody could guarantee belt life, but I haven't found anyone to confirm that yet. My brother sold his sidewinder cuz he was sick of only getting 500kms to a belt driving hard on the trails. I am honestly thinking of selling mine and going back to a turbo Nytro. Will decide this summer off season.
 


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