74Nitro
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I don't think it matters which rollers.What rollers are you guys using that make the pin seat wear oblong?
Trussman
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I made longer pins from stainless bar stock, drilled a hole for the bolt to go thru....Has anyone found a way to keep the pins from turning? You still need to get them out to replace rollers so loc tight is not a good option
Slow998
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does everyone with a Tapp clutch have to heat the cover to get it off?
KnappAttack
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does everyone with a Tapp clutch have to heat the cover to get it off?
No, I've never had to heat the cover to get them off on all that I have ever worked on.
putz21
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‘19 Sidewinder LTX SE
No heat to get the cover off. The heat I had to use was to get the spider off. I put the new Roller Spider Assembly in my TAPP this year. Only got 300 or so miles in it though due to the lack of winter we had in WI.
What kind of mileage are we taking before wear? Wonder if drilling and sleeving would be a good solution?I don't think it matters which rollers.
I did notice the cover on my new TAPP was EXTREMELY tight and continued to be tight after taking it off several times. I did not have this issue with my circa 2019 TAPP. It just takes a bit more effort to work it free. I could just grab on opposing slots and wiggle it freedoes everyone with a Tapp clutch have to heat the cover to get it off?
1nc 2000
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Most won't notice the wear in the pin bores until the wider rollers dont spin anymore.What kind of mileage are we taking before wear? Wonder if drilling and sleeving would be a good solution?
Over 10,000 miles before I had roller that wouldn't spin freely.
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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Have you noticed and differences between the pins being locked as far as performance?I made longer pins from stainless bar stock, drilled a hole for the bolt to go thru....
KnappAttack
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Most won't notice the wear in the pin bores until the wider rollers dont spin anymore.
Over 10,000 miles before I had roller that wouldn't spin freely.
I had to clearance the width of my 23's secondary to install the Hi-Torque rollers. They would not go in and spin. I'm only guessing here that the dies or casting used in production of the clutches are getting worn perhaps, but the bottoms were tapered where the rollers would not go in properly like the did in my 17.
I've got a good idea for a friction free roller that wont wear out and a pin setup that wont spin in the casting and can use the normal alum helix's. Should backshift and upshift even easier that we have now with the roller secondary.
74Nitro
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Ok, we're all ears.I had to clearance the width of my 23's secondary to install the Hi-Torque rollers. They would not go in and spin. I'm only guessing here that the dies or casting used in production of the clutches are getting worn perhaps, but the bottoms were tapered where the rollers would not go in properly like the did in my 17.
I've got a good idea for a friction free roller that wont wear out and a pin setup that wont spin in the casting and can use the normal alum helix's. Should backshift and upshift even easier that we have now with the roller secondary.
Brotherdan
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He said he had a good idea not a good idea he was going to tell you about!! LolOk, we're all ears.
justinator
Lifetime Member
Totally normal, Dave at tapp showed a video of warming it with a propane torch to pop it off easy. Not that every clutch will have that snug of a cover but if you do…….light warming while leaving a few bolts close to the cover makes the cover pop off and not go flying. I believe its on tommcats facebook page but video was originally posted by tapp.does everyone with a Tapp clutch have to heat the cover to get it off?
Last edited:
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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If your good idea turns into parts send some my way for testing.I had to clearance the width of my 23's secondary to install the Hi-Torque rollers. They would not go in and spin. I'm only guessing here that the dies or casting used in production of the clutches are getting worn perhaps, but the bottoms were tapered where the rollers would not go in properly like the did in my 17.
I've got a good idea for a friction free roller that wont wear out and a pin setup that wont spin in the casting and can use the normal alum helix's. Should backshift and upshift even easier that we have now with the roller secondary.
Maybe we might get snow next year.
This may sound strange but I want some hydraulic clutches that can be computer controlled by a program that will run in a given belt temperature range all the time.
KnappAttack
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
If your good idea turns into parts send some my way for testing.
Maybe we might get snow next year.
This may sound strange but I want some hydraulic clutches that can be computer controlled by a program that will run in a given belt temperature range all the time.
Yes, they will need to be tested and proven for sure.
I thought of that idea on hydraulic clutches 30+ years ago now for drag racing and brought it to Dick Schmidt who was our race director for MADRAG. He also worked for Rice Lake Machine and Design at the time.... As I recall, it was not legal to run at that time, but how perfect would that be. It would also be super efficient at transmitting power where its not trying to explode the clutch outward like the weighted designs we run now. Getting it to use the energy to shift rather than exploding is where the efficiency comes from. Rotax actually has a patent on a clutch that uses oil pressure thru the crankshaft to shift the clutch on a four stroke I know. Have not seen it in use yet.
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