Team Fast 136" M20 - 2011+ Apex XTX (Version 2.0)

[yamadoo]

Joe you do great work. I hope to improve the ride of my 144 with the STAR kit, I am sure it will no way compare to an M20 but wow you do great custom work OH ya and farm too. LOL

Cant wait to ride them together this winter.

Mark

 

[Redbeard]

Thanks, Mark! Sled's really are my true, third love!

1st - Wife and son

2nd - The farm

3rd - Sled's

 

[Redbeard]

Tunnel air line brackets are complete.

 

[Redbeard]

Here's a few pics of how I made the low profile nuts that secure the drop brackets inside the tunnel.

 

[yamadoo]

Joe great work as usual, do you use a specific brand of drill bit? When ever I drill steel I end up quickly with a dull bit and that makes the rest of the holes a real pain.

Have a great 4th, be safe.

Mark

 

[Redbeard]

do you use a specific brand of drill bit?

Mark, the best drill bit for the job is highly debatable, but I use HSS (High speed steel) drill bits.

Don't run your drill too fast and use plenty of lube...

 

[Redbeard]

I made a last minute decision to change how the the rear spring solenoids mount inside the right foot well. I felt that any potential trail-side repair would be too difficult with the solenoids mounted under the fan, so I moved them to the side. Now there is easy access to the coils if a problem should arise. This took some trial and error bracketry, but it will work and it clears the outer body panels by 1/4". The back-up beeper had to be relocated under the fan, but it still connects with the stock plug.

 

[yamadoo]

Great to plan ahead and hope you NEVER need it

 

[maim]

Joe great work as usual, do you use a specific brand of drill bit? When ever I drill steel I end up quickly with a dull bit and that makes the rest of the holes a real pain.

Have a great 4th, be safe.

Mark

as northern sledder said, drill speed and lube is critical when drilling metal. a flatter looking tip when sharpening helps too. learned to sharpen bits drilling old 5/8" thick double frames with rust between them. rust really kills a cutting edge on a drill bit.

 

[yamadoo]

Thanks Joe and Maim I need to get a drill press and slow it down, I tend to burn my way through as fast as the old thing will go and then DULL - notice how I through a tool in there makes me feel better.

Mark

 

[Redbeard]

The track is aligned and the sled is on the floor!

I just completed the air compressor bracket, so time to start getting measurements for the air lines. Wiring will follow.

 

[yamadoo]

Soon will just lack...................SNOW, but I guess it can wait , a little.

Good work again Joe.

Mark

 

[Soldier'spapa]

I just got myself caught up on this thread. Excellent work as always my friend!

The pic showing the shorter air spring got me thinking... Last summer I sent the shocks off my M-20 in to be refreshed and I asked Fast to valve them stiffer. I felt it was too easy to bottom out my skid. I compensated by running higher than suggested air pressure in the air spring. When they sent me back the shocks they informed me that they did not change the valving but instead changed them to a different oil thinking that would do the trick. Nope. The few miles I was able to ride last season proved no difference.

I'm wondering if Fast has incorporated this shorter air spring to address this? Seems to me that the lower air volume will build pressure earlier in the compression stroke and might just do the trick for my bottoming concern.

 

[Redbeard]

The pick showing the shorter air spring got me thinking...

That's a good question, Doug! I think it's worth investigating this winter. Does your skid have the the front air spring as well, or just the single in the rear?

One thing I should mention...

Any time you install a new/different air spring, you will have to make a small adjustment to the lower mounting stud, which is a large, 1/2" - 13 set screw. Test fit the new spring and check the orientation of the air line port. If the port is not aligned with the machined slot in the upper retainer, simply turn the set screw in or out and test fit the spring again. Repeat until you get the proper alignment.

Example: If you screw on a new air spring and the port is 1/4 turn from aligning with the slot, simply remove the spring and turn the set screw 1/4 turn. Re-install spring to check.

 

[Soldier'spapa]

Good advice! My M-20 has only the rear air spring. I think I'll call and present this question to Fast... but first, Joe, can you supply me with the over-all length of either air spring you pictured so I can compare to the one I have?