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Tear down

Do the BOP shaft upgrade, it’s gonna break if you ride even moderately hard. I bent my RR shaft and was lucky enough to catch it before disaster struck.
 

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Starting to put sled back together! I did have a QA issues with the bearing not having a seal on the back side (bearing in brake calipers but they did a good job on my driveshaft/bearing fittement!!!
when I got my spring order 998 and I addressed the loose bearing fitment issue so many have had with drilling divets in the shaft (on bearing seat) and adding retaining compound eventhough the bearing was a fit snug

The retaining compound did a excellent job to the point I needed to apply heat and use a puller to remove!

I am going the same route with my new skf bearing since I am confident it works
If anyone attempts using the retaining compound method to lock the bearing here are a few suggestions
- mesure bot inner race and shaft to make sure you are within spec of the retaining compound tolerances
-Drill 4 divets with a drill bill
-Clean both inner race and shaft spotless then clean with alcohol
-Coat shaft with retaining compound and assemble (put brake rotor and gears so you can install retaining clips on both side)
- then leave it alone for 24hrs to give the chance for compound to set!


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Here's a pic of the shaft after the
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old bearing removed after applying heat to burn retaining compound and puller
 
It’s important to note that there are different compounds of loctight. I used 638 green, it can fill gaps up to .010” others aren’t as strong or won’t fill gaps that large. If you have over .005” clearance, I wouldn’t even bother, you need a new shaft. I have both retaining compound and BOP wedge because mine had spun some and had .005” clearance shaft too bearing.
 
It’s important to note that there are different compounds of loctight. I used 638 green, it can fill gaps up to .010” others aren’t as strong or won’t fill gaps that large. If you have over .005” clearance, I wouldn’t even bother, you need a new shaft. I have both retaining compound and BOP wedge because mine had spun some and had .005” clearance shaft too bearing.
620 says .015 but I wouldn't use it on a clearance issue close to the maximum specification..
Imo stay well within to specific tolerance.
 
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Getting track ready to go back in adding studs to the outside edges and sharpening the existing one
Decided to run the stock track one more season before swapping to1.50
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View attachment 154911 Getting track ready to go back in adding studs to the outside edges and sharpening the existing one
Decided to run the stock track one more season before swapping to1.50View attachment 154910
What size studs are those ?
I had to change my track , due to OWNER NEGLIGENCE , and replaced with the same 1.25 stock track but with 1.325 studs rather than the 1.5 that I previously had (bought a used set up as was considering selling ) and my SOTP feeling was a big difference in all aspects of gription .
I would have gone to the 1.5 with 1.75 + studs , and in fact may still , if I decide to keep the sled OR put that set up on what ever sled I buy , which would be an SRX or an LTX-LE , which will have a 1 or 1.25 stock track .
 
What size studs are those ?
I had to change my track , due to OWNER NEGLIGENCE , and replaced with the same 1.25 stock track but with 1.325 studs rather than the 1.5 that I previously had (bought a used set up as was considering selling ) and my SOTP feeling was a big difference in all aspects of gription .
I would have gone to the 1.5 with 1.75 + studs , and in fact may still , if I decide to keep the sled OR put that set up on what ever sled I buy , which would be an SRX or an LTX-LE , which will have a 1 or 1.25 stock track .
They are 1.450 megabites not sure if I am going the put the same on the outside I may go with gold diggers

I.am definitely going 1.5 track after next season
 
I actually like my sled this year with only the igrips if they held up better. They are coming out and I’ll either stud it or prestudded is going in. With my weight on the sled it turns better on tight trails that I run with out studs
 
Will there be any clearance issues with a 1.5 track with studs? This is what I want to do this summer even before I threw a stud through the rear exchanger
 
Depends. How long are the studs and how do you plan on tensioning your track?
 
I don’t need a lot of penetration, I’m just a trail rider and would like to run woodys megabites 1.75”on a storm track 1.5”. Is it really that close?
 


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