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Valve check?

I'm just putting this out there I thought for sure I had a valve issue also, mine would not start at all at the end of the season last year unless you gave it a little throttle. I replaced the stub shaft and pick up and it now starts right up and idles fine. The timing marks on the stub shaft looked fine so I don know what the deal was maybe the pick up was bad but it is like a completely different machine now.
 

Did the chain tensionner will release only when the engine will start for the first time? or we can get it release by cranking without spark plugs?
Cranked mine over a few times with the kill switch off and was all quite when it started up, Dealer told me that they make noise when first started. Might be worthwhile to this way to avoid any tensioner problems.
 
Have anyone tried to adjust the valves without tipping the engine? Keeping the cam sprocket in place on the chain and keep the chain tight so the chain tensioner stayed in place and in contact with the chain.
It was posted last year a dealer did it this way on 7000 cat .
 
Have anyone tried to adjust the valves without tipping the engine? Keeping the cam sprocket in place on the chain and keep the chain tight so the chain tensioner stayed in place and in contact with the chain.
It was posted last year a dealer did it this way on 7000 cat .
I dont have the balls to do it. Things could go bad easily but sure would save time!
 
What is the cost to get the valves done
 
Dealership quoted me about $7-800
 
Thanks badams
Mine has 7700 miles so I better budget for this service this fall
 
I had a 15 with bad starting problems 14000 miles but for some reason my 2017 seems to be starting better with 9000 miles. Even started cold a few times on first try.
 
Well since I don't have a heated shop and it's the middle of the riding season I decided to take her in to the shop and have the valves checked. The two center exhaust valves and outside clutch side exhaust valve were tight (less than .002) and the other three exhaust valves were out of spec. He changed shims without moving the motor. I could tell immediately on the first cold start it was fixed. Cold idle doesn't drop below 1500 anymore. Also noticed my afr went up at idle (13) and cruising (14's) which makes sense if the fuel is fully combusting now. Might have to richen up cruise speed a bit. I plan on pulling the head off this summer to see what's actually happening with the valves. The exhaust valve part number for my 14 has been changed to 16.5 part number but it sounds like 16.5 has also had tight valves so not sure it's as simple as bad valve material. If the head is ok I plan on replacing at least exhaust valves and seats. I wish I would have saved the info from my first valve adjustment to compare with this one, only thing I remember was the first time around all six exhaust valves needed adjusting.
 
Well since I don't have a heated shop and it's the middle of the riding season I decided to take her in to the shop and have the valves checked. The two center exhaust valves and outside clutch side exhaust valve were tight (less than .002) and the other three exhaust valves were out of spec. He changed shims without moving the motor. I could tell immediately on the first cold start it was fixed. Cold idle doesn't drop below 1500 anymore. Also noticed my afr went up at idle (13) and cruising (14's) which makes sense if the fuel is fully combusting now. Might have to richen up cruise speed a bit. I plan on pulling the head off this summer to see what's actually happening with the valves. The exhaust valve part number for my 14 has been changed to 16.5 part number but it sounds like 16.5 has also had tight valves so not sure it's as simple as bad valve material. If the head is ok I plan on replacing at least exhaust valves and seats. I wish I would have saved the info from my first valve adjustment to compare with this one, only thing I remember was the first time around all six exhaust valves needed adjusting.
How many miles first time and second time?
 
Something like 5700 the first time and I just turned over 11,000 the last time I was out.
 
Are EFI Vectors exempt from this tight exhaust valve issue? We have two Vectors with 15-17k in our group and the motors were never apart. I have a 14 Viper with 11k and 4 exhaust values were tight.
 
Are EFI Vectors exempt from this tight exhaust valve issue? We have two Vectors with 15-17k in our group and the motors were never apart. I have a 14 Viper with 11k and 4 exhaust values were tight.

Could be the Vipers exhaust is hotter. Might want to wrap the headers with a header wrap to insulate. My 2 cents. The Vectors rear exit with the cooling effect from the snow hitting the tunnel might be the difference. Just a theory. Don’t get me wrong I would rather have a Viper. I am very disappointed in the ride quality of my Vectors. If I pull the trigger on a Viper I would definitely be wrapping the header. And hoping for the best.
 
Add another one to the list. 2017 with around 3800 miles. Has ran like crap since last flash. Dealer called today two exhaust valves tight and rest out of spec. I have no other specifics cause this valve thing is all Chinese to me. He said they would put in a claim (gonna test that yes warranty again). Have had good luck to this point so fingers crossed. From reading this thread I would have to guess it was this way from factory right? I mean only 3800 mi? But why would latest flash expose problem?
 


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