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Valve check?


Yesterday I did this on a Viper for the first time. I've done nytro and apex in the past. Found all the intakes within spec, but exhaust were all over the place, some had almost zero clearance. Also checked the reluctor ring and found that someone had spot welded it in place, but the marks were off 3-4 degrees!!
Ground the welds off and made it right. Starting better now.
I just cringe when cranking some of these sleds over and have them kicking back.
 
Yesterday I did this on a Viper for the first time. I've done nytro and apex in the past. Found all the intakes within spec, but exhaust were all over the place, some had almost zero clearance. Also checked the reluctor ring and found that someone had spot welded it in place, but the marks were off 3-4 degrees!!
Ground the welds off and made it right. Starting better now.
I just cringe when cranking some of these sleds over and have them kicking back.
How did you do the tensioner, did you hold it in place, or remove it?
 
Yesterday I did this on a Viper for the first time. I've done nytro and apex in the past. Found all the intakes within spec, but exhaust were all over the place, some had almost zero clearance. Also checked the reluctor ring and found that someone had spot welded it in place, but the marks were off 3-4 degrees!!
Ground the welds off and made it right. Starting better now.
I just cringe when cranking some of these sleds over and have them kicking back.
Well done!
 
Add another one to the list that had exhaust valves under spec. with far less than 25k miles on the clock. I only had 6800 miles, but based on everyone else's findings in this thread, I still thought it would be a good idea to check them. I did use the flat steel bar (1/8"x1"x36") method mentioned in another post on this thread, but I put it on the PTO side of the chain and gears rather than the Mag side as it seemed more secure and less likely the bar would slip off the intake cam gear bolt that would be used for leverage. With this method, the bar sits nicely in a pocket between the intake cam gear and right most holder for the cam.

I used 2 ratchet straps - one on the left handlebar to the rear bumper to keep the bars from turning, and a second one that ran from the flat bar putting pressure on the cam chain guide over the right side of the handlebar and secured to the engine cradle (aribox removed). This end could just as easily have been secured to the front bumper and there would be no need to remove the airbox.

I also took the header and heat shield off to replace a couple loose rivets that were under it, but this would not need to be removed otherwise.

Here are my results and a couple pictures showing the straps.

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I’m in the process of doing mine as well. I removed the manifold, rear engine mounts & loosened the front mounts. I also removed the steering shaft & air box along with some frame pieces, roll over valve etc. I also had to remove the coolant line at the rear of the bock to get at the engine mount bolts. All that allowed me to rotate the engine forward to get at the tensioner. So maybe I did it the hard way.

All my exhaust were out as well. I have 12,500 klm on mine. I didn’t have any idle issues, I did this to hopefully correct the hard starts.

But, looks like I did the math wrong because 3 of the exhaust valves now have 10-11 thou clearance. And the sled has a miss. So I’ll have another crack at this.
 
I’m in the process of doing mine as well. I removed the manifold, rear engine mounts & loosened the front mounts. I also removed the steering shaft & air box along with some frame pieces, roll over valve etc. I also had to remove the coolant line at the rear of the bock to get at the engine mount bolts. All that allowed me to rotate the engine forward to get at the tensioner. So maybe I did it the hard way.

All my exhaust were out as well. I have 12,500 klm on mine. I didn’t have any idle issues, I did this to hopefully correct the hard starts.

But, looks like I did the math wrong because 3 of the exhaust valves now have 10-11 thou clearance. And the sled has a miss. So I’ll have another crack at this.
Save yourself a LOT of time and do the bar method rather than removing the tensioner.
 


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