Valve check?

[captainruss99]

The YouTube guy is doing it the hard way for sure

 

[74Nitro]

Yesterday I did this on a Viper for the first time. I've done nytro and apex in the past. Found all the intakes within spec, but exhaust were all over the place, some had almost zero clearance. Also checked the reluctor ring and found that someone had spot welded it in place, but the marks were off 3-4 degrees!!
Ground the welds off and made it right. Starting better now.
I just cringe when cranking some of these sleds over and have them kicking back.

 

[captainruss99]

Yesterday I did this on a Viper for the first time. I've done nytro and apex in the past. Found all the intakes within spec, but exhaust were all over the place, some had almost zero clearance. Also checked the reluctor ring and found that someone had spot welded it in place, but the marks were off 3-4 degrees!!
Ground the welds off and made it right. Starting better now.
I just cringe when cranking some of these sleds over and have them kicking back.

How did you do the tensioner, did you hold it in place, or remove it?

 

[74Nitro]

How did you do the tensioner, did you hold it in place, or remove it?

Removed it.
Removed both rear engine mount bolts and front right.
Removed the front left also, but put a smaller bolt through it, that gave us enough room to tilt the engine forward.

 

[cannondale27]

Yesterday I did this on a Viper for the first time. I've done nytro and apex in the past. Found all the intakes within spec, but exhaust were all over the place, some had almost zero clearance. Also checked the reluctor ring and found that someone had spot welded it in place, but the marks were off 3-4 degrees!!
Ground the welds off and made it right. Starting better now.
I just cringe when cranking some of these sleds over and have them kicking back.

Well done!

 

[74Nitro]

Well done!

Ty

 

[ksiesel]

Add another one to the list that had exhaust valves under spec. with far less than 25k miles on the clock. I only had 6800 miles, but based on everyone else's findings in this thread, I still thought it would be a good idea to check them. I did use the flat steel bar (1/8"x1"x36") method mentioned in another post on this thread, but I put it on the PTO side of the chain and gears rather than the Mag side as it seemed more secure and less likely the bar would slip off the intake cam gear bolt that would be used for leverage. With this method, the bar sits nicely in a pocket between the intake cam gear and right most holder for the cam.

I used 2 ratchet straps - one on the left handlebar to the rear bumper to keep the bars from turning, and a second one that ran from the flat bar putting pressure on the cam chain guide over the right side of the handlebar and secured to the engine cradle (aribox removed). This end could just as easily have been secured to the front bumper and there would be no need to remove the airbox.

I also took the header and heat shield off to replace a couple loose rivets that were under it, but this would not need to be removed otherwise.

Here are my results and a couple pictures showing the straps.

 

[HUS457]

I’m in the process of doing mine as well. I removed the manifold, rear engine mounts & loosened the front mounts. I also removed the steering shaft & air box along with some frame pieces, roll over valve etc. I also had to remove the coolant line at the rear of the bock to get at the engine mount bolts. All that allowed me to rotate the engine forward to get at the tensioner. So maybe I did it the hard way.

All my exhaust were out as well. I have 12,500 klm on mine. I didn’t have any idle issues, I did this to hopefully correct the hard starts.

But, looks like I did the math wrong because 3 of the exhaust valves now have 10-11 thou clearance. And the sled has a miss. So I’ll have another crack at this.

 

[ksiesel]

I’m in the process of doing mine as well. I removed the manifold, rear engine mounts & loosened the front mounts. I also removed the steering shaft & air box along with some frame pieces, roll over valve etc. I also had to remove the coolant line at the rear of the bock to get at the engine mount bolts. All that allowed me to rotate the engine forward to get at the tensioner. So maybe I did it the hard way.

All my exhaust were out as well. I have 12,500 klm on mine. I didn’t have any idle issues, I did this to hopefully correct the hard starts.

But, looks like I did the math wrong because 3 of the exhaust valves now have 10-11 thou clearance. And the sled has a miss. So I’ll have another crack at this.

Save yourself a LOT of time and do the bar method rather than removing the tensioner.

 

[Striker3636]

I have a 2020 Viper with 4000 km (2500 miles) and after reading 18 pages of this I was convinced my valves are out of whack. Sled is very hard to start unless it’s warmed up. Even in the summer, if it hasn’t been running it will take a minute or so to start, nearly kills the battery every time. Once running and warmed up, it starts fine on restarts. Pulled it all apart, valves are all within spec. Plugs are new. Regular fresh fuel.
What’s next? Someone a few pages back said they replaced stub shaft and pickup to fix a similar problem. Any way to tell if the pickup is defective? Wouldn’t it be hard to start warm too? If I take it to the dealer, do they have some version of a computer hookup to figure this out?

 

[captainruss99]

Maybe a flash issue with the ECU? I don't remember when the latest flash was released. Maybe the dealer could tell you what flash you have, via the VIN #. You would think a stub shaft or crank sensor issue would always be there. With no codes, you would think nothing is out of wack within the parameters of the ECU.

 

[Striker3636]

I think the latest flash was 2019, so should have it. Once it’s running, it runs well. It just doesn’t want to start for the first time of the day. I wouldn’t dare go out without a jumper pack or booster cables.

 

[74Nitro]

I have a 2020 Viper with 4000 km (2500 miles) and after reading 18 pages of this I was convinced my valves are out of whack. Sled is very hard to start unless it’s warmed up. Even in the summer, if it hasn’t been running it will take a minute or so to start, nearly kills the battery every time. Once running and warmed up, it starts fine on restarts. Pulled it all apart, valves are all within spec. Plugs are new. Regular fresh fuel.
What’s next? Someone a few pages back said they replaced stub shaft and pickup to fix a similar problem. Any way to tell if the pickup is defective? Wouldn’t it be hard to start warm too? If I take it to the dealer, do they have some version of a computer hookup to figure this out?

I assume you checked the alignment marks as I suggested earlier in this thread?
Have you checked fuel pressure?

 

[Striker3636]

If you’re talking about the reluctor ring, I don’t know how to do that and I’m not seeing it in the service manual I have. No, I haven’t checked fuel pressure, I don’t have a test kit. I’ll likely take it in, was hoping it was just the tight exhaust valves.

 

[74Nitro]

If you’re talking about the reluctor ring, I don’t know how to do that and I’m not seeing it in the service manual I have. No, I haven’t checked fuel pressure, I don’t have a test kit. I’ll likely take it in, was hoping it was just the tight exhaust valves.

See post #39

09 nytro idle HELP!!

So I would like to update the forum on what the issue was. Turns out it was the reluctor ring. I guess it slipped and threw the timing off. I’m not sure how this even happens. If your vipers or nytros will not idle this is definitely something you want to look at. Remove the clutch and pull the...

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