What studs to use?

[krm]

Was thinking gold diggers 144/1.45's

Note: I have 2/120" sled with 10,000miles on PowerPoint plus single ply.....couple bent ones. Great product.
Also, plastic backers have been good to me.

Don't know which I'll do.

A lot of times riding in poor conditions is the killer. Ride in low snow. Don't hammer down!

144 1.45s there you go joe single double single double .

 

[**sj**]

Just takes one broken plastic backer to equal a stud in your front or rear heat exchanger= blown motor potentially

 

[Doc Harley]

144 1.45s there you go joe single double single double .

KRM,

Where do you get the stud pattern? 2/1 alternating?

 

[Doc Harley]

Just takes one broken plastic backer to equal a stud in your front or rear heat exchanger= blown motor potentially

Have you guys had experiences with them breaking? Or are you just saying?

I've got plenty and trust them. If you have had a bad experience, I'd consider aluminum.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Only plastic I ever use are not plastic, the fast trac "polymer" backers have always been good to me. Never had one break or crack on every sled Ive ran them from mid 90s thru 2013 or so....But I have always run 1" tracks with 1.175 studs and only 2 per lug.

Im going with the 1.45 this season on my ice attak grand masters. FWIW (not a SW, lowly 150hp 12004tec LOL)

Dan

 

[Doc Harley]

Only plastic I ever use are not plastic, the fast trac "polymer" backers have always been good to me. Never had one break or crack on every sled Ive ran them from mid 90s thru 2013 or so....But I have always run 1" tracks with 1.175 studs and only 2 per lug.

Im going with the 1.45 this season on my ice attak grand masters. FWIW (not a SW, lowly 150hp 12004tec LOL)

Dan

The only thing I noticed with polymer backers, as least with studboy.....

Studboy sells a 1.5, they also sell a big nut(.75) but!!! They won't sell you a big nut, polymer backer on a 1.5" stud.....

This is what I deal with Dan!!!!! Lol! Nut must be too thick, I'm thinking

 

[Mighty]

Take a look at the extreme max. Big, thin 1 inch head work great with the nubs in the silent drive track

 

[dsimonRX1]

I assume you understand staying out of the middle roughly 3" is required for long studs...that said...you could easily go .625 over the lug

Thinking of going with the W85C and staying away from the middle 3"

 

[Smokum]

I assume you understand staying out of the middle roughly 3" is required for long studs...that said...you could easily go .625 over the lug

What is your theory on running such a long stud? From what I have seen, the longer stud you run, the greater the risk for tear out, bending, and breaking no matter what stud or backer you use. 1/8" - 1/4" over lug is where I would stay.

 

[DrVis1969]

These are the Warthog XZP's on my viper after 1600+miles of "moderate" snow conditions, if it helps you out!

 

[Good times]

1.325's give you 5/64 over track lug
1.450's give you between 3/16 and 7/32 over track lug

 

[krm]

KRM,

Where do you get the stud pattern? 2/1 alternating?

joe call me

 

[**sj**]

What is your theory on running such a long stud? From what I have seen, the longer stud you run, the greater the risk for tear out, bending, and breaking no matter what stud or backer you use. 1/8" - 1/4" over lug is where I would stay.

more penetration equals more risk to a degree so yes agree....but that where quantity to share the load and anal install come in to play...

1/8"-1/4" is merely for safety...to me doesnt provide the hook up I expect....I personally wont stud a sled for 1/4"...Id rather just go pre studded track...I expect my traction and my sled to perform...with the money guys pay to gain say 5-10 h.p.....it always blows my mind they are wasting way more than that where the track meets the terrain...and no sir...I dont have pullouts..

 

[Doc Harley]

Quick question.....

How does studding work with quite lugs? Do they need to be removed? Just sounds bad......

 

[**sj**]

Quick question.....

How does studding work with quite lugs? Do they need to be removed? Just sounds bad......

the quiet drive nubs arent a issue...they only slightly reduce the penetration of the stud...and sometimes raise the head of the stud slightly...

the best way to minimize the stud head raised and the most penetration is with a thin head and short shouldered (or no shoulderlike extreme or fast trac) stud....

but either way...the only issue is some studs might end up hundreths of an inch shorter and/or slight raised head/slight vibration

btw I dont recommend running double backers (I know some will scream) with this sled/drivers