rat4020
Extreme
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2011
- Messages
- 116
- Age
- 102
- Location
- Cold Spring Minnesota
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- Polaris and Turboed Apex in a off road buggy
Thanx RX Ive been studying frickin turbos and charts for far too long . I have been lookin at the Garrett GT2854r and the GT2860R seems I just need to make a decision as to one . Now what is the major diff between the TD04- 19T and the Garrett ..Thanx for the reply and sorry bout the Hy jack
TBird
Expert
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2004
- Messages
- 379
- Location
- North of Sweden
- Country
- Sweden
- Snowmobile
- Yamaha Viper and Yamaha Nypex
rat4020 said:
Mitsubishi = Journal bearing.
Garret 2860R = Ball bearing.
None can say which one is better then the other, they both have their strengths and it's the application that dictates which one to use.
Terms of capacity an MHI TD04-19T is approx same size as an Garret 2860R.
If used in an rearmount foremost MCX have proved that MHI works great and is sturdy, but journal bearing turbo's need oil preassure and since it's in the back it needs an oil return pump.
If used in an frontmount an Garret might be the best choice since comparing the mentioned model Garret have less back preassure on turbine side, and an ball bearing does not need same oil feed and if placed right gravity can take care of oil return to oil tank.
le700
Expert
Last time i drove it, there was a smell of fuel when going uphill. I checked for fuel leaks, and discovered that I had not tightened the clamps between the plenum and the throttle bodies, so i had a major pressure leak.
It was because I struggled to get the plenum to seat properly against the throttle bodies, and in one late night i had forgotten to tighten them. well well, hopefully no damage was done.
As I barely had time to test it after I fixed it, I noticed that it was quite a lot more powerful, and the blow of valve started working.. And I thought it was fast before..
So this last weekend I found that it went straight to the rev limiter when giving it full throttle from a slow speed. That was a bummer, so I was carefull the rest of the weekend not to hit it again. I guess the supertips will be installed soon.
Does anyone know how much the mcx weights are in grams? I'm guessing I have to load the supertips a little higher than the mcx's.
Or would it be better to adjust the system so that it lets off pressure when closing in on the rev limiter?
Btw is the rev limiter at 11000 rpm's or is it 10500?
It was because I struggled to get the plenum to seat properly against the throttle bodies, and in one late night i had forgotten to tighten them. well well, hopefully no damage was done.
As I barely had time to test it after I fixed it, I noticed that it was quite a lot more powerful, and the blow of valve started working.. And I thought it was fast before..
So this last weekend I found that it went straight to the rev limiter when giving it full throttle from a slow speed. That was a bummer, so I was carefull the rest of the weekend not to hit it again. I guess the supertips will be installed soon.
Does anyone know how much the mcx weights are in grams? I'm guessing I have to load the supertips a little higher than the mcx's.
Or would it be better to adjust the system so that it lets off pressure when closing in on the rev limiter?
Btw is the rev limiter at 11000 rpm's or is it 10500?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
This is how I set t 60Y Supertips
Loaded: 14-6-2
Primary: Dalton Black/Green
Secondary: Dalton Red, Helix 54-44 eller 56/46 at 80 degree = 6+2
You may have to fine tune for track lenght, riding style and snow conditions.
The rev limiter is at 11250 RPMs.
Loaded: 14-6-2
Primary: Dalton Black/Green
Secondary: Dalton Red, Helix 54-44 eller 56/46 at 80 degree = 6+2
You may have to fine tune for track lenght, riding style and snow conditions.
The rev limiter is at 11250 RPMs.
le700
Expert
Thanks.
le700
Expert
Season is over now. I managed 150-200 km this year, which is not bad as the sled wasn't ready until easter, and i worked some weekends etc.
I did not get to try out the supertips, or the mcx display adjustments this season. The sled worked great with the mcx weights for everything, except rapid full throttle pulls (in which case it hits the rev limiter..). So guess there is some work to do next season.
There was also the issue with the exhaust cover cones on the back, that melted and fell off . Luckily someone found it and I got it back. I have to make a fix for it so I won't loose it again.
To round up this season here's some pictures:
I did not get to try out the supertips, or the mcx display adjustments this season. The sled worked great with the mcx weights for everything, except rapid full throttle pulls (in which case it hits the rev limiter..). So guess there is some work to do next season.
There was also the issue with the exhaust cover cones on the back, that melted and fell off . Luckily someone found it and I got it back. I have to make a fix for it so I won't loose it again.
To round up this season here's some pictures:
le700
Expert
Here´s a video my wife made with an iPhone. It´s quite loud:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VY0ALJef ... e=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VY0ALJef ... e=youtu.be
mbarryracing
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2007
- Messages
- 1,922
- Age
- 52
- Location
- Springville NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2006 Yamaha Attak Turbo
2015 SR Viper RTX-DX
1996 Vmax 600XT
le700,
Those are some awesome photos and I am truly jealous!!! Thankyou for sharing.
Those are some awesome photos and I am truly jealous!!! Thankyou for sharing.
le700
Expert
Well today I started blowing dust of the sled, and preparing it for next (this) season. I think I read somewhere (maybe rxriders thread..) that it would be wise to prime the turbo with oil before starting the engine, after long periods of not using it. So, is it possible to remove a fuse or something to keep the fuel pump from working?, so that I can use the ignition key to turn the engine and the oil pump..?
I also have loaded the super tips, so they are going in soon. I put in tungsten at the heel, 4 washers in the middle and two washers at the tip, which should be 86 grams. It will be exiting to see how it works.
I also have ordered a boost gauge which also is going in soon.
I had planned to change out the front end of the sled, to stock width apex with oilite bushings, but I haven´t gotten it painted yet so we´ll see about that.
I also have loaded the super tips, so they are going in soon. I put in tungsten at the heel, 4 washers in the middle and two washers at the tip, which should be 86 grams. It will be exiting to see how it works.
I also have ordered a boost gauge which also is going in soon.
I had planned to change out the front end of the sled, to stock width apex with oilite bushings, but I haven´t gotten it painted yet so we´ll see about that.
le700
Expert
Heres a picture from when i primed the turbo:
And checking the return oil hose routing, and adjusting the cable connector position to a better place. It was a bit squeezed where it was:
When mounting the boost gauge, i broke the compression ring, so have to get a new one somewhere.. Be careful with those!
And checking the return oil hose routing, and adjusting the cable connector position to a better place. It was a bit squeezed where it was:
When mounting the boost gauge, i broke the compression ring, so have to get a new one somewhere.. Be careful with those!
le700
Expert
No one close by had a ferrule (compression ring) that small, 3mm, so I had to have a shop order a few. They sure got expensive, I have to pay about 35$ for them. Auto meter should have at least two in the box…
Recently I have fixed the rear end of the sled, the part around the exhaust. I like the stock look of these sleds, so I wanted to keep it looking fairly stock.
This is how it came out, don´t mind the messy garage:
I didn´t have any before pictures of it, but none of the cones were there. It was not pretty.
Today I decided to make rxriders usb cable mod to the mcx efi box. Here is a picture of the inside, showing the mini usb connector:
Would´t it be crap if that hose inside the mcx box blew of, at boost? It is not zip tied like the other pressure hoses..
I then added some siliconish glue stuff to keep the cable in place and moist out. More pics will follow when it has dried, and reassembling starts.
Recently I have fixed the rear end of the sled, the part around the exhaust. I like the stock look of these sleds, so I wanted to keep it looking fairly stock.
This is how it came out, don´t mind the messy garage:
I didn´t have any before pictures of it, but none of the cones were there. It was not pretty.
Today I decided to make rxriders usb cable mod to the mcx efi box. Here is a picture of the inside, showing the mini usb connector:
Would´t it be crap if that hose inside the mcx box blew of, at boost? It is not zip tied like the other pressure hoses..
I then added some siliconish glue stuff to keep the cable in place and moist out. More pics will follow when it has dried, and reassembling starts.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Great work, adding the USB cable makes tuning a breeze.
Can't remember if I added a zip-tie, but the line in the Box I worked on did not come lose pulling it.
If it is loose I would zip-tie it.
And Yes it would be a very bad thing to happen if it jumps off.
No way for the MCX EFI Box to know when to spray more fuel or reduce boost pressure.
May result in a catastrophic failure, going kaboooom......
Can't remember if I added a zip-tie, but the line in the Box I worked on did not come lose pulling it.
If it is loose I would zip-tie it.
And Yes it would be a very bad thing to happen if it jumps off.
No way for the MCX EFI Box to know when to spray more fuel or reduce boost pressure.
May result in a catastrophic failure, going kaboooom......
le700
Expert
rxrider: maybe you can move this thread to the garage section. Maybe it fits better there?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Thank you for the heads up.
Yes it belongs in the 4stroke Sled Garage section.
I have now moved it
rxrider
TY Management Team
Yes it belongs in the 4stroke Sled Garage section.
I have now moved it
rxrider
TY Management Team
le700
Expert
Thanks.
Well yesterday I got the new ferrules, which actually were cheaper than quoted. They came out at 18$, and now I have 3 spare ones.
Then I reinstalled the mcx controller, fuel tank, seat etc. I then finished the boost gauge install. Sorry no pics this time.
Next up, I think, will be to open the chaincase for an inspection. The sled only has 3000km on it, but I would like to inspect the chain tension. I find it easier to tell wheter it has the correct tension when looking at it. Also last year the reverse gear wasn't engaging properly a few times, but I guess that is just an adjustment issue.
I also have an m1000 skid that I was planning on installing, but not sure anymore.
Well yesterday I got the new ferrules, which actually were cheaper than quoted. They came out at 18$, and now I have 3 spare ones.
Then I reinstalled the mcx controller, fuel tank, seat etc. I then finished the boost gauge install. Sorry no pics this time.
Next up, I think, will be to open the chaincase for an inspection. The sled only has 3000km on it, but I would like to inspect the chain tension. I find it easier to tell wheter it has the correct tension when looking at it. Also last year the reverse gear wasn't engaging properly a few times, but I guess that is just an adjustment issue.
I also have an m1000 skid that I was planning on installing, but not sure anymore.
