ShootToThrill
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jonlafon1
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That looks bad. Go with a shorter primary spring with glide washers.
ShootToThrill
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Yeah was trying to find a good replacement.
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View attachment 127059 Looks like this might not be the best thing on the winder, with stock spring anyways. Rocket to 100 then blah afterwards. Secondary is shimmed, TP rollers and all looks good there including offset. Stock cover is going back on until a different primary spring is found. Rtx se, stock, 1000 miles, no blown belts yet. Anyone else running one of these with stock spring??
This is why glide washers are so important in Thunder Products kit....or any clutch kit for that matter. True evidence that the primary spring was not being able to rotate as it was compressed, causing the end of the spring to etch the 911 cover and IMO...twist the primary spring to where it was making it rub the hub.
I have a 911 cover on both my Viper and Sidewinder now. Viper about 6,500 miles and not 1 scratch on the 911 cover. Sidewinder only a few miles of testing....but using glide washers.
ShootToThrill
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It looked like new after 1000 miles on the apex with not even a scratch on the spring ID. Must be the long spring not helping matters
shagman
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Yes. Its from the high preload of the stock spring. Like Nos said add glide washers.It looked like new after 1000 miles on the apex with not even a scratch on the spring ID. Must be the long spring not helping matters
actionjack
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For people like me with zero clutch experience do the guys who know clutching expect a consensus solution to be found this season for the SW?
I realize their are countless variables and maybe the bind or spring issue might not be universal but I have a hard time believing there is NOT something universally limiting like the spring being too long or the castings needing to be cleaned with a dremel. Even tho it seems there are many with no problems at all.
At 430 miles I'm still waiting for the chance to check the minor tweaks but I looked last night and my primary spring is worn where the pocket is on the fixed sheave (back). Little or no wear in the middle of the spring.
I realize their are countless variables and maybe the bind or spring issue might not be universal but I have a hard time believing there is NOT something universally limiting like the spring being too long or the castings needing to be cleaned with a dremel. Even tho it seems there are many with no problems at all.
At 430 miles I'm still waiting for the chance to check the minor tweaks but I looked last night and my primary spring is worn where the pocket is on the fixed sheave (back). Little or no wear in the middle of the spring.
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For people like me with zero clutch experience do the guys who know clutching expect a consensus solution to be found this season for the SW?
I realize their are countless variables and maybe the bind or spring issue might not be universal but I have a hard time believing there is NOT something universally limiting like the spring being too long or the castings needing to be cleaned with a dremel. Even tho it seems there are many with no problems at all.
At 430 miles I'm still waiting for the chance to check the minor tweaks but I looked last night and my primary spring is worn where the pocket is on the fixed sheave (back). Little or no wear in the middle of the spring.
There are a lot of clutch kits out there....do some research and find out which one is right for you. I have tried and tested 90% of them (the last kit is at my shop now to test).
My clutches are machined now and with all the problems I have eliminated....my clutching is finally where I want it.
Did I have coil bind? Yes
Are there ways to fix coil bind? 1-machine your secondary, 2- shim your helix, 3-buy an aftermarket helix from Thunder Products as it's billet aluminum, clearanced out for coil bind and is a much better helix.
Are there other problems....yes, Clutch dust, sticky sheaves and other things that can play havoc....even worn belts.
actionjack
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I appreciate the reply. TY generally seems to be the best source for research.
**sj**
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There are a lot of clutch kits out there....do some research and find out which one is right for you. I have tried and tested 90% of them (the last kit is at my shop now to test).
My clutches are machined now and with all the problems I have eliminated....my clutching is finally where I want it.
Did I have coil bind? Yes
Are there ways to fix coil bind? 1-machine your secondary, 2- shim your helix, 3-buy an aftermarket helix from Thunder Products as it's billet aluminum, clearanced out for coil bind and is a much better helix.
Are there other problems....yes, Clutch dust, sticky sheaves and other things that can play havoc....even worn belts.
Dalton helix's also work very well.....
slowride06er
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I agree good or bad if I take time and do some research I can find most information I'm looking for. Now the question why being a apex owner am I snooping around the SW forum? Answer.. I own a 06 Apex.I appreciate the reply. TY generally seems to be the best source for research.
ROCKERDAN
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Dalton helix are a work of art, however as of now they are stock spring pocket depth....Unless something changed in the past week or so.
Looks like stock primary springs are junk guys....hoping Don will chime in, but around 2500 to 3000 miles they break. Must be the galling up/twisting motion that is making them break. Too long? Or just cheap? Who knows.
Either way, it looks like Lonn's spring in his kit sure was a good choice, shorter and using 2 glide washers. Seems to cure the issue on stocker.
Dan
Looks like stock primary springs are junk guys....hoping Don will chime in, but around 2500 to 3000 miles they break. Must be the galling up/twisting motion that is making them break. Too long? Or just cheap? Who knows.
Either way, it looks like Lonn's spring in his kit sure was a good choice, shorter and using 2 glide washers. Seems to cure the issue on stocker.
Dan
Last edited:
ShootToThrill
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Is there just a better spring to use by itself without buying a kit?? Been searching around without much luck
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Dalton helix are a work of art, however as of now they are stock spring pocket depth....Unless something changed in the past week or so.
Looks like stock primary springs are junk guys....hoping Don will chime in, but around 2500 to 3000 miles they break. Must be the galling up/twisting motion that is making them break. Too long? Or just cheap? Who knows.
Either way, it looks like Lonn's spring in his kit sure was a good choice, shorter and using 2 slip washers. Seems to cure the issue on stocker.
Dan
Lonn has always used the glide washers in his kits. Yes, very good choice.
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Is there just a better spring to use by itself without buying a kit?? Been searching around without much luck
If you are referring to the primary spring, you can get different springs to work, but if you do not use a glide washer on the end of the primary spring....these are the results. Have even seen where the spring wore thru the cover after time.
If you are asking about secondary spring......No, I have tested every spring, Red/White Cat spring and even custom springs.....I keep going back to the stock secondary spring. Results are huge loss of top end charge and mph....
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